sleepy12 Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 Is a 2000 lb. winch big enough? I managed to get my pathfinder stuck in my backyard yesterday, we had to pull her out with an 07 explorer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slade420 Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 Is a 2000 lb. winch big enough? I managed to get my pathfinder stuck in my backyard yesterday, we had to pull her out with an 07 explorer. Im gonna go ahead and say no, a 2000 lbs is not big enough, im guessing thats an ATV winch. A pathfinder weighs a lot more than that... plus consider how much extra force is holding your vehicle when its stuck. Being stuck in mud can create a lot of suction, holding you in the mud. I personally have a 8500lbs Superwinch. it does the trick when im stuck. but most winches advise you not to pull over half of your winches capacity without a snatch-block(just incase it breaks). with extra cable and a snatch block, you double your pulling capacity. some people even use multiple snatch blocks. the only thing i had to do was strengthen the weak screw that held the cable to the drum. they are notorious for breaking, as mine did... when i was in a mud hole... You should always have a tree saver strap with you aswell. you should never hook the wire back on its self. it can cause it ot fray and break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 Is a 2000 lb. winch big enough? I managed to get my pathfinder stuck in my backyard yesterday, we had to pull her out with an 07 explorer. I would say no to a 2000lb winch. I think it is way too small. I have a 10000lb winch on my truck and it has pulled the truck like a schoolboy. One instance it was bellied in thick mud and with no help from the drive chain we winched it 20+ feet through this mud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver97ex Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 I have a 4000 pounder sitting in my garage. I am contemplating putting it on my pathy but I think that may even be too small. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 Absolutely not. 4000lbs, absolutely not. Your truck weighs ~4000lbs. Now, get it stuck in mud, rocks, have an uphill pull, or any other obstacles, and the weight can EASILY DOUBLE!!! 8000lb winch MINIMUM for our trucks, and even then, only if it's a good make (Warn, T-Max etc). I run a 10,000lb winch, and I've had her draw quite high amperage a couple of times on some tough pulls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver97ex Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 That being said, I will just leave this one in the garage for when I get a quad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 That being said, I will just leave this one in the garage for when I get a quad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleepy12 Posted November 22, 2008 Author Share Posted November 22, 2008 Alright, thanks, I will look into getting a 10,000 lb. one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowTied Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 (edited) I run a 10,000lb winch, and I've had her draw quite high amperage a couple of times on some tough pulls. Was that with a snatch block that you saw it pulling a lot of amperage, or just a straight pull? Edited November 22, 2008 by BowTied Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 (edited) Here are a couple of small vid clips of mine when we tested it out at a training day. The rope was through a snatch block. The winch motor was warm, but not hot. Not bad for a Chinese winch eh? Edited November 22, 2008 by kiwipete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 Was that with a snatch block that you saw it pulling a lot of amperage, or just a straight pull? Straight pull. I didn't think it was that bad a pull at first, but the guy was REALLY in the mud hole. Hindsight being 20/20, I should have used a snatch block....but I pulled him out okay. Just saw the DRL's dim a bit, and had to stop the winch for a sec to let the alty charge the battery up a touch. I never pull constant....always in short bursts....but I was pulling him over a hump and didn't want to stop at that point, so it was a little longer than normal. My winch pulls 450amps at full load...which is far more than any alternator (on our trucks) can output. Hence the need for the deep cycle battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowTied Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 Hence the need for the deep cycle battery. That's a good tip right there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zibi Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 (edited) 8000 lb minimum I'd say. The weight rating on a winch is for a straight pull at the end of the cable. Add in any type of friction (i.e. why it's stuck), hills, etc. and the amount of weight actually being pulled will significantly increase. I don't think I know of anyone who runs less than 8000lbs on any type of vehicle, and most people tend to run around 9000lb winches (people that I know anyway). You'd burn out a 2000 or 4000 lb winch extremely quickly. That thread posted a while back about recovering a jeep out of a lake, the unimog burnt out two 12,000lb winches and the bronco burnt out his though I'm not sure what size it was. Edited November 22, 2008 by Zibi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 Totally, shamelessly plagarized but is the basic information.... Most, if not all, winch manufacturers will tell you to select a winch based on 1.5 times the gross vehicle weight. This often leads to less than satisfactory results for 2 reasons: 1) Most people are terrible at actually estimating the gross weight of their rig as it sits on the trail, full of gas, tools, equipment, food, camping gear, people, the dog...everything. Heck, in some cases the real figure can actually exceed the GVWR of the vehicle. Simple advice here - either err WAY on the heavy side, or get your rig weighed in trail trim. 2) More importantly, the "effective weight" of a "stuck" 4x4 is very often FAR more than 1.5 times the GVW. The following data on how to more accurately estimate the "effective weight", is taken from the world of professional heavy recovery - the guys that recover Tractor-trailers that have flipped on their side for instance, as well as U.S., Canadian, and UK Military recovery manuals. Once you have accurately estimated or measured the trucks loaded weight (LW) you can calculate the resistance to be overcome in any recovery situation (this is commonly known as the ROLLING resistance). There are 4 types of resistance that must be accounted for to accurately assess the resistance that must be overcome. These are surface resistance, damage resistance, mire (stuck) resistance and grade (slope) resistance. Calculate them all as follows: Surface resistance A pull of 1/10 LW will cause a free wheeling truck to move on a hard, level surface. A pull of 1/3 LW will cause a free wheeling truck to move on a softer surface, such as grass or gravel, Damage resistance: A pull of 2/3 LW will be required to move if the wheels cannot rotate (as if the brakes were fully applied), the pull required to overcome the resistance (drag) the truck id 2/3 or 67% of the LW. Damage resistance includes surface resistance (i.e. you only use one or the other) Stuck (mire) resistance: A pull of 100% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to a depth of the sidewall on the tires. A pull of 200% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to the hubs. A pull of 300% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to the frame.. Mire resistance includes damage resistance (i.e. you only use one or the other) Grade (slope) resistance: Upgrade (vehicle has to be recovered up a slope or grade) 15 degrees - add 25% of LW 30 degrees - add 50% of LW 45 degrees - add 75% of LW Vehicle recovery on level ground - no correction Downgrade (vehicle has to be recovered down a slope or grade) 15 degrees - subtract 25% of LW 30 degrees - subtract 50% of LW 45 degrees - subtract 75% of LW Final figure: Add surface or damage or mire resistance and grade resistance, and this is your final figure or rolling resistance. This is the amount of pull the winch must apply in order to recover the stuck vehicle. Read the full write up here. Far more information than can be digested, so bookmark it... http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Recovery/index.html B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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