beastpath Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 I changed the temperature setting on my A/C last night as i just wanted it to blow cool air, not cold. Today when I get out there and turn on the car, turn the air down, and it just blows warm. Turn off the air completely, turn back on, hit the a/c button on and off still does the same. Thought maybe it was stuck on that setting so turned it hotter, then back down to cold. Now it just blows hot air. When I got to work I checked the compressor was running and that I could see fluid bubbling or whatever in the dryer. Both ok. Anyone have ideas what the problem is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 Is there any difference in the feel of the temperature slider? I'd be willing to bet the "baffle" is stuck, allowing the hot air from the heater core to travel through the ducts all the time, as opposed to closing when the temperature is set low. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted November 11, 2008 Author Share Posted November 11, 2008 no there is no change in the feel of the slider. how would I access this "baffle" to adjust it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 Here is a diagram of the air flow. What you might want to do is to see if your a/c lines are hot or cold. They should never be too hot to touch for a moment and should not be so cold that icicles form. If you are seeing bubbles in the sight glass, you may have a leak somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted November 12, 2008 Author Share Posted November 12, 2008 hopefully its just the "baffle" stuck. I had a mechanic work on the A/C bout 6 months ago, and he installed this Freeze-12 stuff. After reading up about it today I find very few shops will even touch your A/C if it has Freeze-12. Has anyone done a 134a conversion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 Ive done a few of the conversions. The problem is, R134a sucks in comparision to R12, real R12, no knockoffs. Now some members here have had decent luck with a few R12 replacements. If all the mode doors work, I would have it inspected for leaks. Some of the newer refridgerants have a leak detection dye in it and you can use a blacklight or UV light(wear eye protection) to spot the leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 Simon and I have this stuff in our trucks, seems to do the job well. http://www.redtek.com/products_refr.html# It's the 12a Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 I changed the temperature setting on my A/C last night as i just wanted it to blow cool air, not cold.Today when I get out there and turn on the car, turn the air down, and it just blows warm. Turn off the air completely, turn back on, hit the a/c button on and off still does the same. Thought maybe it was stuck on that setting so turned it hotter, then back down to cold. Now it just blows hot air. When I got to work I checked the compressor was running and that I could see fluid bubbling or whatever in the dryer. Both ok. Anyone have ideas what the problem is? Find the leak and repair it ( bubbles in the sight glass shows the system is not fully charged) then all you need to do is purge the system change the oil evacuate the system and recharge it. I did the one on my 88 pathy about 4 years ago when I finally ran out of r12 and its still working great on the original charge and it will freeze you out if you keep it set to max. I run the system at least once a week year around to keep the seals lubed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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