Jump to content

Thermostat choices


MY1PATH
 Share

Recommended Posts

All winter my trucks been running cold and sucking gass, I thought it was the new aluminum radiator I put in last summer. But now with the temps in the 50s and rising, I see it still wont warm up so I'm thinkin' my thermostat needs replaced.

I checked out themostats today and found out 2 types are offered @ the Auto shop;

170- OE temperature

180- Alternate temp

I was gonna buy the 180 to try and copensate for the Aluminum radiator. But I thought I'd ask here first;

Is there any other reason I should chose one or the other?

Winters here get below 0 and summers peak @ arround 90. Not the hottest or coldest of climates, just a wide spread.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah, use the OE one as that's what the engine was designed to have.

 

 

I don't want to be the third one in a row to say this. But, well 3 times I have bought an aftermarket thermostat and all three times I ended up returning them, not becaus they did not work, it was because I compared the aftermarket one with the oem one I removed. they have all been built so much better that the aftermarket ones. and I do not trust an overheated engine on some cheap crap aftermarket. And the nissan one was the same price as the aftermarket one (in my area)

 

 

Just my 2 cents

 

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

170- OE temperature

180- Alternate temp

From "Nissan Technical Bulletin" NTB94-020:

Nissan has approved 180F thermostat usage (from Maxima/Quest, Nissan p/n 21200-0B000) on a Pathfinders/V-6 Trucks in severe cold regions, if customer has complaints of poor heater performance. 170F is a standard (factory installed) thermostat, recommended to use in normal (not cold) weather.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I took out my thermostat this morning, put it in a pot of hot water with a thermometer touching the spring. it started to open @ 170 and reached full open @ 190.

it has 76.5c stamped on it which is 169.7F

Im still gonna replace it cause its out and its the original. But I'm wondering what the problem could be with my warm up. My fan clutch is fine, my warm up idle is set to 1300. The vacum system for my hot air pickup works fine and the door opens when its warming up.

 

I have headers and sopposedly those reduce exhaust gas temp and in turn bring down engine temps but would it bring down the temps by that much!??

I also have an oil cooler with a thermostat to bypass it until the oil reaches 180f. I'm thinking of removing that tho and I know the thermo for the oil cooler works cause the lines to and form the cooler are cold and all other oil lines are warm.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...

Im still gonna replace it cause its out and its the original. But I'm wondering what the problem could be with my warm up. My fan clutch is fine, my warm up idle is set to 1300. ...

 

*grins* Seems this time I caught you GhostPath ;)

Edited by Kittamaru
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not really.

 

"My fan clutch is fine"? Well, fan clutches can go bad in an instant and he didn't state how long ago he replaced or checked it.

 

In fact, I had a Hayden go bad on me two years ago - a week after I installed it.

 

Moral of story: If the obvious part wasn't causing the problem, time to check and DOUBLECHECK everything else. Again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

True, true :P But I just wanted the chance to say that back to ya after you did it, what, three times to me at least? ;)

 

Just takin the micky out on ya mate

to solve your bickering, I checked all that this morning b4 I took it apart.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What's your antifreeze/coolant composition?

 

In the winter I use about 75% collant to 25% water. soposedley this helps since coolant designed as a rust inhibitor / boiling temp riser and does not disipate as much heat as water.

In the summer I run 50/50

Is this wrong?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I have a friend with an older (s-10) Bravada, he was having cooling problems. Had a new T-stat installed, checked the fan clutch, coolant level...seemed to be a mystery. Turns out previous owner had used 1 type of coolant and himself another and voila funky stuff in the radiator and heater core. The flush job took 2 efforts from the local ma-pa radiator shop and charged $165....all better now. My man said that the stuff they showed him that came out looked awful! They do not believe that there is any damage inside, just jammed up is all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...