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I need someone who knows electrical


adamzan
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I'm dead serious, I know nothing of wiring, and have no clue how to decipher the diagrams I just need some people to tell me whats going on here.

 

First of all what is this connector for, and that little wire hanging there, I assume it must be important. Also, why is it so sandy and corroded in there, I thought it was somewhat sealed :shrug:

 

IMG_0356.jpg

 

Now on to the more serious one. What the hell is this? Plain and simple I know that box is for a remote starter, but when I unplug the cables to it, my locks don't work, and my cruise control doesn't work regardless of whether its plugged in or not. Like if i unplug it, and try to lock the door with the key, it will fight with me and not lock, it just pops back up, you can feel it in the key. Maybe some of you guys know whats going on down there :blink:

 

IMG_0353.jpg

 

IMG_0351.jpg

 

IMG_0352.jpg

 

IMG_0354.jpg

 

I posted them all up anyway.

 

Thank you for any assistance.

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Well, the 2nd set of pics is obviously your remote starter control unit. It had been tied into your factory harness and creating the issues that you are talking about. It sounds like it wants to control your power door locks so no one would steal it if is been autostarted. If you dont like it, just take it out. Just follow the wires from the control unit to where they tie in and disconnect them. You may have to do a little reconnecting to the factory wires as I assume it was spliced. Its not hard to reconnect stuff. You can get a cheap set of wire strippers/crimpers at any parts store. You can just crimp a butt-connector on the wires and you should be good to go. The best repair of course is to solder the wires back together and shrink wrap them.

 

On our first pick, it looks like someone did some wiring repair. The green wire looks like it belongs to one of those pink/red connectors. The connector that has the corrosion on it, you can probably clean(not sure what it goes to at the moment). Battery cleaner or electrial contact cleaner will work just fine. I would look down into the body panel and make sure there are no plugs that are missing and letting in the water/dirt.

Edited by 5523Pathfinder
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well im only familiar with my 88, which had no electric anything, so that plug doesnt look like anything i know of in the back of the car (im assuming its the back of the car). is there electric options your car has but dont work? btw its not uncommon for there to be unused plugs around the car - it usually stems from different levels of trim from the factory - xe, se, ti etc.

 

as for that lose wire, those red plugs dont look factory - seeing as the wires are all different wire colors/stripes its possible someone has had a 'faulty' standard plug which they have cut off and re terminated (using those red connectors). seeing that really corroded plug in the same photo leads me to think so anyway. i would try and follow where the cable runs to and from and take it from there.

edit: - the thought passed my mind, that group of wires possibily could be trailer plug wiring - does you car have a trailer plug & does it work properly

 

as for the key fighting you in the lock its possible that there is a solenoid in the door (i guessing you have keyless entry) that just doesnt want to be moved manually, which is normal. the lock popping back is probably just everythings a bit corroded, old, loose etc. & when manually turned with the key its not enough movement for the solenoid to change 'state', hence popping back

Edited by sw
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Well, the 2nd set of pics is obviously your remote starter control unit. It had been tied into your factory harness and creating the issues that you are talking about. It sounds like it wants to control your power door locks so no one would steal it if is been autostarted. If you dont like it, just take it out. Just follow the wires from the control unit to where they tie in and disconnect them. You may have to do a little reconnecting to the factory wires as I assume it was spliced. Its not hard to reconnect stuff. You can get a cheap set of wire strippers/crimpers at any parts store. You can just crimp a butt-connector on the wires and you should be good to go. The best repair of course is to solder the wires back together and shrink wrap them.

 

On our first pick, it looks like someone did some wiring repair. The green wire looks like it belongs to one of those pink/red connectors. The connector that has the corrosion on it, you can probably clean(not sure what it goes to at the moment). Battery cleaner or electrial contact cleaner will work just fine. I would look down into the body panel and make sure there are no plugs that are missing and letting in the water/dirt.

I don't have the remote for the auto starter, and the PO told me that he found the antenna for it (the one thats usually on the winshield near the mirror) in the glovebox, the wire is still there though. It only caused issues when i unplugged the wires, so i turned the switch off and am leaving well enough alone. I was only under there because my cruise control isn't working.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if someone did do a wiring job, as my rear wiper doesn't work ( you can hear the relay clicking though) and the hatch glass won't open at all, for one because the key in the hatch won't turn, and secondly the switch on the center console has been unhooked and i can't see the wires for it when i pulled the switch out of its socket. I'll definitly check for what could be letting the crapola in.

 

well im only familiar with my 88, which had no electric anything, so that plug doesnt look like anything i know of in the back of the car (im assuming its the back of the car). is there electric options your car has but dont work? btw its not uncommon for there to be unused plugs around the car - it usually stems from different levels of trim from the factory - xe, se, ti etc.

 

as for that lose wire, those red plugs dont look factory - seeing as the wires are all different wire colors/stripes its possible someone has had a 'faulty' standard plug which they have cut off and re terminated (using those red connectors). seeing that really corroded plug in the same photo leads me to think so anyway. i would try and follow where the cable runs to and from and take it from there.

edit: - the thought passed my mind, that group of wires possibily could be trailer plug wiring - does you car have a trailer plug & does it work properly

 

as for the key fighting you in the lock its possible that there is a solenoid in the door (i guessing you have keyless entry) that just doesnt want to be moved manually, which is normal. the lock popping back is probably just everythings a bit corroded, old, loose etc. & when manually turned with the key its not enough movement for the solenoid to change 'state', hence popping back

 

Its an XE but it has the power windows, locks, abs, cruise control, a/c. The only thing that doesn't work is the rear wiper AND cruise control, but I couldn't find the fuse for the cruise :shiftyeyes: .

 

No I don't have a trailer plug or trailer hitch, and from when i was underneath before it doesn't look like it ever had one. (i'd have seen the marks on the frame). I think it might be the wires for the brake lights, but im probably wrong.

 

The key only fought me in the lock when i unplugged the remote starter, so now that its working, im not going to play with it unless it has something to do with my cruise control which i doubt. definitly a :crossedwires: job on this truck

 

I'm going to look at that history sheet we got when the ownership was transfered.

Edited by redfinder
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My key comes out with the truck running, so sometimes I pull the key out and lock the truck up(while its running) to keep the heater going. I've noticed that if I try to lock the door by pushing the lock button they will automatically pop back unlocked(like you explained). It will only lock by locking it with the key after the door is shut. Maybe with it unplugged like you explained, it may be giving the impression that the truck is running. A fail safe to not lock your keys in!!

As far as your cruise not working, does your speedometer work? When you turn your cruise button on (the one on the dash) does it light up? Does your horn work?

Edited by 95shakinPF
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Looks like people have answered to your wiring questions already. As for your water/sand. I'm betting that the bottom of your rear quarter panel is starting to rust at the seem and that is the source of your leak.

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My key comes out with the truck running, so sometimes I pull the key out and lock the truck up(while its running) to keep the heater going. I've noticed that if I try to lock the door by pushing the lock button they will automatically pop back unlocked(like you explained). It will only lock by locking it with the key after the door is shut. Maybe with it unplugged like you explained, it may be giving the impression that the truck is running. A fail safe to not lock your keys in!!

As far as your cruise not working, does your speedometer work? When you turn your cruise button on (the one on the dash) does it light up? Does your horn work?

 

Yeah the light on the cruise button comes on, the spedometer works, and my horn works fine. I checked the vaccum line under the hood and its fine, it doesn't even try to set. Is there a fuse for the cruise somewhere?

 

@denisb, I checked and there isn't any rust under there, I've been told that the grommet that can be used for trailer wiring can fall out and cause that to happen.

 

I guess i should probably clean it out in there.....

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Aren't there vents on the inside of either of the rear corners?

 

The vents let in a lot of dust and moisture, leading to crap on the inner quarter. This tends to rot them from the inside out if not addressed.

Or, at least, that was the situation with my Sentra and 240sx... I can't say for sure on the Pathfinder yet.

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Ok I figured out that the wire in the back there was for my brake light. Wow, I didn't know it wasn't working untill that cop told me the other day. Thats all fixed up.

 

Now I want to figure out why my cruise isn't working, I checked the vacuum like and it looks ok, the light on the button comes on but it just won't set. I also checked the brake switch and its fine too. Is there a relay or fuse for the cruise? Next step im going to swap modules. I also checked the connections they were tight.

 

I snapped a pic of the area, do you see anything out of the norm? Also What are those 2 connectors in front of the radiator and behind the grille in the second pic?

 

IMG_03601.jpg

 

IMG_03611.jpg

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What color are the wires going to those mystery plugs? They COULD be fog light plugs.

 

Does your Pathy have the CC buttons on the steering wheel? I've seen complaints of the CC not working because of the steering wheel contacts wearing out.

Yeah they're on the steering wheel, I've tryed pushing hard on them but nothing happens.

 

And the plugs, well one of the wires is yellow as you can see in the pic. But I have an XE and theres no switch for fogs, also The place where the fogs would go looks like this [---] instead of having a hole there.

 

Another wierd thing, my DRL are my highbeams, and when i turn the headlights on they go to low beams and i can select them again.

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Yeah they're on the steering wheel, I've tryed pushing hard on them but nothing happens.

 

And the plugs, well one of the wires is yellow as you can see in the pic. But I have an XE and theres no switch for fogs, also The place where the fogs would go looks like this [---] instead of having a hole there.

 

Another wierd thing, my DRL are my highbeams, and when i turn the headlights on they go to low beams and i can select them again.

Daytime running lights are supposed to be your highbeams. At 50% power.

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Daytime running lights are supposed to be your highbeams. At 50% power.

 

Well I can see no visible difference between them. like if you try and pull the lever back to flash someone to let them go at an intersection, the lights don't change. Unless you turn the headlights on. Some schmuck has rewired them, just like the rear lights i assume.

 

88 i took apart the cruise buttons just now, the contacts are nice and shiny clean. I read that the cruise brain is behind the panel on the drivers side in the back, how do i remove the panel? Also when i turn the cruise master switch on, I can hear a click, but can't tell if its coming from under the hood or the back.

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