SATrammel Posted January 9, 2008 Share Posted January 9, 2008 I have a 1994 Pathfinder SE and I want to lift it. I have heard that you can use Jeep springs but you also have to cut them. I read somewhere that you can use Ford F100, Bronco (which i used to have 96 5.8L and they are worthless off-road then again it could have been the tires my brother has the same on his Jeep TJ with a 2.5 in lift and my Finder can go more places in 2wd that he can in 4wd) springs but Im not sure of the year. And can you crank you tortion bars, becaues i have see a few thing saying that it will weaken it too much. Could some one help me out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95shakinPF Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 poor mans lift! Also, A/C's(automotive customizers 4x4) body lift is a relatively low price! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SATrammel Posted January 11, 2008 Author Share Posted January 11, 2008 Well I am a poor man, 17 with no job. But Im not a big fan of body lifts and i want more flex in the back, because my best friend lifted his durango and i has more articulation than me and i cant have that. but thanks Ill check it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 (edited) you can remove your rear sway bar which will cost you nothing and give your axle more movement. I'm not sure it would be a good idea if you have blown shocks and saggy rear springs though. the rear end might feel pretty mushy. If you need new shocks, a lot of people choose the rancho rs5000's pn 5112 for the rear. those shocks are longer than the stock ones and will give you more articulation (so they say). the torsion bars are pretty strong (i had mine maxed out for a couple years) so i wouldn't be too concerned about breaking them unless you catch one with a rock. Just don't crank them so high that you have no upward travel left. Keep about 1-2 inches of clearance from the upper bumpstop, and tuck the anchors into the crossmember so you don't rip them up like i did last fall >.< Edited January 11, 2008 by skrillaguerilla Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Want a cheap lift? Sit on a phone book. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SATrammel Posted January 11, 2008 Author Share Posted January 11, 2008 well phone books wont do me much good. but skrillaguerilla thanks i need new shocks and springs so removing the sway bar isnt a good idea, what i really wanted to know was if there are any direct replacement springs, something with no cutting drilling or welding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 yeah dude.. search all of those Qs have been covered in other htreads.. if you still don't get something, bump that particular thread and we'll give you a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathmaker1 Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 (edited) im doin the PML this weekend. go with the FRONT JGC coils in the rear(unless your lucky like me and score a set of 4" lift rubicon rear coils with pig tails cut for $30) and crank the tbar a bit. you will get about 2-3" in the rear dependin if you have 4dr and tire carrier on back. 2" is the safe bet for the front unless you replace your UCA's and put some 1/2"-1" ball joint spacers in then you could probably get 3" safely all around but you will most likely have to reindex your TBARS(easy takes 30 min). if you plan on gettin bigger tires or wheel it a lot you NEED a new CL. your steering is weak as @!*%(as is mine i have a 92 4dr SE). hoohaa makes a CL and im gettin one from him. they are $225. also you will want to get a idler arm brace about $30. i will be getin about 4" from my lift but im replacin my tbars(Sway Aways) with longer/stronger ones and reindexin them, my UCA from Rough Country, BJ spacers(Automotive Customizers, new shocks all the way around(RS 5000 are good but im probably goin with 8000 on my rig) and new CL from hoohaa and idler arm brace from AC. i will be loosin my sway bars but i wouldnt recommend it if your shock are shot like skrill said. like i said the stock steering CL sucks in the WD21. i will carry all new steering parts as trail spares when i go wheelin whick is a good idea for anyone with these pathys....unless you are SASed... after crankin the torsion bars you WILL need an alignment....also if you replace your CL after you lift it and get an alignment you WILL need another alignment......hope this helped you out. Edited January 12, 2008 by pathmaker1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 NOOOOOO, don't use BJ spacers. They ruin stock UCA's and they will make your CV's break if you lift it that high. Even with aftermarket UCA's. I wouldn't run BJ spacers for any reason, they weaken the upper BJ mount considerably when you lift it. You can't use longer torsion bars, how would they fit into the stock crossmember? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathmaker1 Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 88 thanks for the correction. i just put sammys lift parts on my truck today....well him and his buddy put em on. i misunderstood sammy when he was tellin me about the tbars......sorry for the bad info.....the tbars are thicker and stronger than stock which helps the front end better than stock ones. also we put the BJ spacers on and ended up takin them off cause they towed my tires in so bad it was undriveable even just up the road to an alignment shop. with them on the steering was SCARY!! we reindexed tb and cranked em but i still got about 1/2 clearance from the bump stops. i was gonna bring the spacers to an alignment shop and tell em to put em on then align her but its not a good idea huh? i got Rough country UCA's and they fit toght against them. also they are maybe 1/2" thick not that much. still a very bad idea huh?? also another edit. the rubicon lift coils didnt work too well. the JGC gave me over 1" more than the rubicon coils so i DO NOT recommend the rubicon coils. they were the rear lift coils from a rubicon for 4" lift maybe that had something to do with it...dunno. sammy has the front 4" lift rubicon coils on his rear and they did a great job. looks good and i think he got 5" or so. endin up gettin about 3-31/2" of lift front and rear. its plenty enough for me to clear the 33x10.5's ill be gettin. thanks for correctin me 88. i hope i didnt steer anyone in the wrong direction. sorry for the bad info i posted. next time ill make sure im better informed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 It's all good. Rubicons are way different from the JGC's, if you take a look sometime even the rear JGC coils are shorter than the fronts! Here's what the 1" BJ spacers did to my stock UCA's back in the day... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...rs+cause+damage Thing with the spacers is that when your front suspension drops down all the way, the CV joints fully extend, then they overextend and wreck themselves cause you have more travel than they were designed for. Longer CV's or better-designed joints might take care of that problem but nobody makes any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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