jpawela Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 I could have just posted this as reply on another thread, but I was afraid I wouldn't get as much attention that way. I found out the other day that my outer tie rods are shot and it's causing a side to side sway/wobble/shimmy and the whole truck wonders about on the freeway and even some in the city at low speeds. Since money is pretty tight, Christmas coming and all, I won't bother to replace for a while. My question is, what sort of hazards, if any, am I taking by delaying the repair. Will this cause premature wear on other suspension or steering bits? Will it get to the point where the truck is just be too unstable to drive? I'll probably drive approx 2000miles between now and the time I can repair it. Appreciate any response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpawela Posted November 29, 2007 Author Share Posted November 29, 2007 Oh, and Nissan quoted me $280 to repair with an alignment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tincan4X4 Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 I could have just posted this as reply on another thread, but I was afraid I wouldn't get as much attention that way. I found out the other day that my outer tie rods are shot and it's causing a side to side sway/wobble/shimmy and the whole truck wonders about on the freeway and even some in the city at low speeds. Since money is pretty tight, Christmas coming and all, I won't bother to replace for a while. My question is, what sort of hazards, if any, am I taking by delaying the repair. Will this cause premature wear on other suspension or steering bits? Will it get to the point where the truck is just be too unstable to drive? I'll probably drive approx 2000miles between now and the time I can repair it. Appreciate any response. Worst case is they break and you lose steering. I wouldnt wait to fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 Get it fixed ASAP... or at least wrap the remaining bits in duct tape to sure them up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 forget the duct tape// fix it right.. TREs are pretty cheap... $20-40 and that'a way cheaper then even one night at the hospital and possible liability. you can do this yourslef too.. you can get better deal on allignement at Firestone or some place like that. Firestone has lifetime alignement deals too. in 2000mi all kinds of things could happen. don't gamble with your or others' lives, PLEASE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yozsi Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 yea, gather up some freinds, invest 50 bucks at the local auto parts store on 2 tre's and just align it yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpawela Posted November 30, 2007 Author Share Posted November 30, 2007 Wow. Maybe I should park it for a while and drive my other car. Meanwhile, I'll order the parts and worry about labor later or try to take it on my self. Thanks for all the input, guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 It is REALLY hard to actually break a TRE. Yeah, they'll get loose and wobble, but even then the shaft would bend before the ball joint in it would break apart. $280, I would be rolling on the floor laughing at them if they told me that. For a $20 part and an allignment, wow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 Yep.... REALLY hard to break them. Also really easy to replace. Alignment isn't necessary right away, just get them as close as possible in length to the old ones and you should be alright for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revgolem Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 its very rate for a tierod to break. the most noticible effect will be on tire wear. if you buy the parts yourself, i would suggest doing the job yourself. many shops will not put on your own parts, and if they do they will jack up the labor rate and not be able to warranty. the main thing to remember is to get the alignment as close as possible. i usually find a reference point to measure and then count the number of turns to get the old one off as a backup. that should do you until you get it aligned, the worst that would happen in the mean time is again excessive/uneaven tire wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpawela Posted November 30, 2007 Author Share Posted November 30, 2007 its very rate for a tierod to break. the most noticible effect will be on tire wear. if you buy the parts yourself, i would suggest doing the job yourself. many shops will not put on your own parts, and if they do they will jack up the labor rate and not be able to warranty. the main thing to remember is to get the alignment as close as possible. i usually find a reference point to measure and then count the number of turns to get the old one off as a backup. that should do you until you get it aligned, the worst that would happen in the mean time is again excessive/uneaven tire wear. Couldn't be any worse than it already is... Will I need a tie rod puller? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissandoms47 Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 That and a torch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 That and a torch. All you need is a pair of wrenches for the adjuster and lock nut, a wrench for the crown nut on the end of the TRE (and a pair of diagonal cutters if you thiink you can pull the pin, the pin is soft metal and I usually just twist the nut off without pulling it, if it is old), and a hammer to tap the side of the knuckle to pop the taper loose. A piece of pipe might be nice for added leverage on the wrench for the adjuster/lock nut as they can be pretty snug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 Ryan, The suggestion of the torch comes from trying to loosen the lock nut, and adjuster. I've had to do it a couple of times myself. Sometimes they seize on there pretty well. I've pulled tie rod ends with and without pullers....it's easier with a puller, but doable without. Either do what GrimGreg said, or loosen the crown nut, but don't remove it, then bang on it with a hammer till the taper breaks loose. Then remove the crown nut. NEVER hammer on the taper itself.... if for any reason you have to reuse that tie rod end, you'll never get the crown nut back on it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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