madhatter_xe Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 (edited) hey folks, Well it looks like my engine has officially bit the bullet...errr...well con rod to be exact. I was driving home on the highway the other day and heard a loud crack from my engine bay and then some horrid knocking noises. I pulled over to find a hole blown right through my oil pan. that can't be a good thing. I'll try to attach a pic. I haven't dropped the pan, but it looks like the engine threw a rod and is likely kyboshed . I found one at a JY for $600...its from an 87 and has like 100K miles on it. The JY claims all cylinders compression tested at about 135psi....anybody know what factory specs should be? i plan to swap over my newer water pump, timing belt/TB tensioner...and also change the crank seal, cam seals and rear main seal. But I remember seeing a list of stuff on here that are things you might as well change while the engine is sitting on a stand. Does anybody have a link to that post? i read through most of Slick's engine swapping posts and they were a huge help (thanks for taking so many pictures Slick!!), also, does anybody have a part number for the stronger manifold studs that i should use? EDIT: I found a thread on here with the PN for the 300zx studs. thanks alot for any tips of info...this is the first time i've swapped out an engine. Edited October 19, 2007 by madhatter_xe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roost Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 I wouldn't recommend buying an engine from a JY. If there is a japan engine sales store that sell engines that they get from japan, get one from there. They sell you an engine with the miles between 40-60k miles. They can explain how they get their engines from japan. I got a engine, transmission and transfer case for $1600 and they stand behind their products. I would also get a new timing belt. A few buck for the added security. As well, you'll need the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, thermostat housing, valve cover and other exhaust gaskets. Headers are a good option at this time. I had to cut away the bolts at the crossover to the rest of the exhaust system and then had to remove the O2 sensor by force. Now will need a machine shop to tap the O2 sensor hole in the exhaust. By putting headers on, you'll move the bolting down to a more manageable location, near the side of the transmission. Also put heat tape on the exhaust to protect you starter and other electronics going through the same area. Plan on it taking longer than you expect and costing more than you want. I am going through the process right now, and it seems like I find something else that needs to be done everyday. If you look under the thread I started asking for "transmission replacement help", I kinda go through the process while I am doing it. If you have any questions, there are plenty of very knowledgeable people here that can help you with specifics. Semper Fi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roost Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 Forgot to mention that the exhaust manifold bolts that I got where from a bolt specialty store and I paid a little more than $5 for the dozen that I picked up, with washers. Grade 8.8 bolts and don't remember the size, but there is a thread in here that tells the exact size to get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted October 20, 2007 Share Posted October 20, 2007 Owie, that looks like it hurt. Compression should be more like 170-175. 135 is way low. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted October 20, 2007 Share Posted October 20, 2007 I did the exact same swap your looking at now... an 87 engine into an 88 truck (but mine was because of rounded out crankshaft keyways) The engines are the same so there are no concerns on compatibility Although I got mine from a wrecking yard, understand that buying from a wrecking yard can be hit or miss. If you do, make sure they will warranty it to run strong for "at least" 30 days.. most will do that some will go 90 or even 180 days. Buying from an importer is another option but you will end up spending more on gaskets and seals (assuming you do not replace most of them in a WY engine) because the intake from yours will have to be swapped over to the imported engine. So if you go this route, make sure you figure in the additional cost and time to do it. When I did mine I replaced all the intake gaskets along with the exhaust, f/r main seals, iirc I also did the cam seals and I also replaced the oil pan gasket. I might be missing some others here I do not recommend reusing your old timing belt... it's possible if the engine abruptly stopped, even if only for a second, that the belt could have been damaged and there is no guarantee that you will see anything wrong with it. The timing belt can ruin your new engine in a second... and besides , they are cheap Any good auto parts store can get you replacement studs, you don't have to get the Nissan "300Z" studs. I got mine from NAPA, they ordered them in for me and I had them the next day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted October 20, 2007 Share Posted October 20, 2007 standard is 173 and minimum is 131 ;according to the handy dandy FSM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhatter_xe Posted October 20, 2007 Author Share Posted October 20, 2007 Thanks for all the info! this stuff is great to know....and i'm doubting if I should buy the engine I had lined up. Those import engines sound like the best way to go, but I would really like to do this swap without busting the bank. I don't think I can afford to spend over a grand on an engine...so I might have to just cross my fingers and go with one from a JY. The one i had lined up has a 90 day warranty, but with the low compression i don't know if i should even bother. Good call on the timing belt too, i'll pick up a new one. Redpath88: Thanks alot for listing the gaskets to swap out, might as well swap them while the engine is sitting on a stand. Do you know if the NAPA studs that you got were the revised replacement studs? the stronger ones? Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted October 21, 2007 Share Posted October 21, 2007 They are not "revised" anything for Nissan.. they are simply high quality exhaust manifold studs for anything they'll screw into and are long enough for There are a couple of guys at my local Napa (unfortunately one less now) who really know their stuff. I seldom ever need to question what they recommend and they assured me that they were the same studs that they use when replacing them in an engine, any engine. 16 months and 40,000 miles later, they are still holding tight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roost Posted October 21, 2007 Share Posted October 21, 2007 . Those import engines sound like the best way to go, but I would really like to do this swap without busting the bank. I don't think I can afford to spend over a grand on an engine...so I might have to just cross my fingers and go with one from a JY. T It was the combo of the engine, transmission and the transfer case that cost me a total of 1600 bones. The engine was less than half of that. I would have to pull the receipt to check. If you check the internet and/or Ebay, you can find these japanese direct engines for about $600 plus shipping. That gives you a bargaining chip when you go and talk to the folks at the local center. Semper Fi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhatter_xe Posted October 22, 2007 Author Share Posted October 22, 2007 (edited) Yeah, I'm gonna email some of the sellers on eBay and see how much they want to ship an engine to Canada....shipping could be more than the stinkin engine. I'm having trouble finding any decent VG30i motors and am wondering about putting in a VG30E...but I don't really want to deal with the wiring nightmare and other things related. After lots of reading on this board i am still sort of confused. Is it possible to drop in a VG30E engine, but use the same ECU, TBI...ect, from my original engine? if so, would it be extremely time consuming and difficult? RedPath88: Those studs sound good, i'll give them a go. So did you take a used one in for size reference, or did the guys just know what size to use? thanks again for all the help. Edited October 22, 2007 by madhatter_xe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 Yes you can use a VG30e engine from a Hardbody or Pathfinder... (Maxima's have a different crank snout length and as a result more work is required iirc) You have to swap over all of the intake componets, ie: manifold, throttle body, etc... do it on a stand before you install the engine There are a couple people here who did it, who will have more exact info for you. Although I did bring a stud with me, my local guys knew what I needed right away.. but they did check to make sure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhatter_xe Posted October 22, 2007 Author Share Posted October 22, 2007 Okay, that is great to hear. I found an engine out of a '92 for half the price, with half the km's. Now I just need to search for some tips on how to switch it over...if any custom fabbing is required. If anybody has done this already, feel free to tune in. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 Mad, Its pretty easy to swap things over: Strip the New motor down to just the Block and heads.... Build it back up using all of the parts off of your old engine. Dont be in a rush and have fun. We are only the Internet away, and I would be happy to give you a phone ## if you think your stuck or are having a challenge.... 2 engine stands and a 8'x4' table come in handy.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhatter_xe Posted October 23, 2007 Author Share Posted October 23, 2007 Thanks alot for the offer Casey, i'm sure I'll have some questions to post on here throughout this swap. Its always good to know there are folks on this board that have been here and done it already. Looks like I won't have to do the top end swap though, I found a vg30i in good shape that i'm gonna use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roost Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 I am in the process of doing the exact same thing you are getting ready to do. Definitely 2 engine stands and a good table. One recommendation that I was giving that now makes perfect sense, tear down the new engine to the block and heads(make sure you have TDC), replace the seals and the timing belt and the h2o pump. Don't start removing parts off your original(old) engine until you are ready to swap the directly to the new engine. This will save some confusion in the process. Also look at where the oil dip stick is in the old engine. There are three or four brass plug ports that the dip stick can go into. If you don't put your dip stick in the same as the old, you will not be able to get it out, once installed and you will not be able to switch locations of the tube while the engine in in the truck. Also, don't forget to transfer the plug into the new hole you just made. Lots of oil will find it's way out. If you have questions, like stated earlier, like the gov't, we are here to help . Semper Fi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roost Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 (edited) Oh yea, take lots of pics before you start, so you can have reference pics if you need them. And you can then post some of those pics with your expert advice for the rest of us . Edited October 23, 2007 by Roost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted October 24, 2007 Share Posted October 24, 2007 2 engine stands and a 8'x4' table come in handy.... Yes they do.Must be a popular month for engine swaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted October 24, 2007 Share Posted October 24, 2007 Dang thats Pretty.... someone forgot to install the H2O pump before they put the timing belt on.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted October 24, 2007 Share Posted October 24, 2007 Dang thats Pretty.... someone forgot to install the H2O pump before they put the timing belt on.... Ahh, you noticed...D'oh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhatter_xe Posted November 21, 2007 Author Share Posted November 21, 2007 Well i've hit my first roadblock during the engine removal process and I am nearly at my wits end. I cannot find a way to get those damn torque converter bolts out. I have removed the starter, and can only see about half of the bolt...and there doesn;t seem to be any way i can get a wrench or socket on it because of the angle through the hole. I even removed that metal bracket that sits above the starter and goes around the opening...that did nothing, so i removed the bracket on the other side of the tranny (which was a huge PITA) so i could shimmy that thin plate that sits over the torque converter over to see more of the bolt. That hasn't helped either! Am i missing something here?!? this design seems to be an evil move by Nissan. Help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted November 21, 2007 Share Posted November 21, 2007 After you pull the backing plate for the Starter, there is a little piece that goes on the lower portion of the bell housing and over a portion of the starter hole.... Once you got that out you will need about 2' of extensions and a 14mm socket.... run it out over the CenterLink... they are Locktited in.... Get the 4 bolts out, and leave the Torque Converter in place.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhatter_xe Posted November 21, 2007 Author Share Posted November 21, 2007 there is a little piece that goes on the lower portion of the bell housing and over a portion of the starter hole is this a thin piece of sheet metal that goes all the way across the bottom of the bell housing? I have that loose, but there are tranny lines right in the way...the same tranny lines run over top of the oil pan. What do you do with these? bend them? ieeee...i'd like to avoid that. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted November 21, 2007 Share Posted November 21, 2007 Hmm I feel like I'm missing something here. Have any pics? Are you sure all the bolts are out? The metal plate has some grommets that seat into the block/or tranny can't remember which side- they are only like 1/4" long. With a little room for play they should pop right out. Maybe it's RTV'ed in place? Try to coax those hard lines a bit to make room. Is the tranny loose? You'll want to have that loose to re-install the motor anyway. It's only 10 bolts for the drive shafts and mount. If you can get a jack under the tranny and lift/slide it back an inch or so I bet it will help. Hey don't forget to put those stupid plates back before you re-install. I have retardedly done that twice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhatter_xe Posted November 21, 2007 Author Share Posted November 21, 2007 thanks Earth, I haven't loosened the tranny up yet...maybe i should try that next. i'll get some pics today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted November 21, 2007 Share Posted November 21, 2007 You dont have to loosen any of the transmission mounting bolts... As for the tranny lines, take out the 10mm bolt that holds them to the bracket on the oil pan just above the CL... you have to take that bolt out to get enough play in the lines to pull the starter out the front... Notice my lines are still in the above pic.... If you can move the small backing plate, you can get a socket on the Torque Converter bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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