chappy Posted September 30, 2007 Share Posted September 30, 2007 I have an 02' se and had my exhaust replaced from the resonator back a few months ago. When they had my truck running on the lift they showed me that my passenger side cat was leaking and had some sort of cheap metal welded around as if it was poorly put there to stop the leak. They said they could try and reweld it but there would be a possibility of the seam just vaporizing do to the rust around the metal. Have you ever heard of a cat repair like this? My truck only hit 70K a month ago so I would be under the federal mandated 80K cat warranty but, I'm wondering if the dealership would try to say I Attempting a fix and not warrant the cat. I did not by the truck at a Nissan dealer. Thanx. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeysentra Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 I work for a chevrolet dealer (I Know), anyway I know that if we have a vehicle come to us for Emmisions warranty work that if the cat has been tampered with (attempted fix of your cat) that it will not be warranted. Nissan may be different and it is worth a shot but I doubt that they will warranty your cat for the attempted repair. just my $.02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 New high-flow cats are under $100 usually and easy to install by a muffler shop. Check local pricing if possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chappy Posted October 2, 2007 Author Share Posted October 2, 2007 Thats not bad around a hundred bucks a piece. How can exhaust shops get away with charging you through the nose. Is it pretty labor intensive to uninstall the old ones? I'll have to ask around a couple of shops to see if they will install ones that I purchase myself. My exhaust is new from the resonator back I just didn't want to mess with cats plus the exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 SawZall/Oxy-Acetylene torch + old cat = 30 seconds of work to remove, usually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chappy Posted October 3, 2007 Author Share Posted October 3, 2007 Are most cats bolt on or weld on? It might be tough to weld if there is bunch of rust. Also are most after market cats a bit longer to compensate for the pipe that enters the old one being cut or is there a pipe fitting to make up the inserted difference? Thanks guys my friend has torches lifts and access to lots of goodies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted October 5, 2007 Share Posted October 5, 2007 Recycle the old cats...they may even pay for the new ones you buy!! Cats go for lots of $$$--platinum inside the honeycomb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chappy Posted October 5, 2007 Author Share Posted October 5, 2007 Recycle the old cats...they may even pay for the new ones you buy!! Cats go for lots of $$$--platinum inside the honeycomb. Never thought of that, great idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldy Posted October 5, 2007 Share Posted October 5, 2007 I had this exact problem with my 02' Pathfinder. I tried to have the dealer fix it under warranty cause it's supposed to be covered for 10 years. They wouldn't do it for free but they had a kit with an official Nissan part number to repair the cats cause its relatively common, and they don't want to have to replace the cats at their cost. I ended up buying the kit , I think it was like $50, and doing it myself. It was basically some goop, a couple of metal rails, and some band clamps. You goop the rail, put it over the seams of the cat, and band clamp the whole thing together. It was pretty effective at jerry-rigging it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted October 6, 2007 Share Posted October 6, 2007 I had this exact problem with my 02' Pathfinder. I tried to have the dealer fix it under warranty cause it's supposed to be covered for 10 years. They wouldn't do it for free but they had a kit with an official Nissan part number to repair the cats cause its relatively common, and they don't want to have to replace the cats at their cost. I ended up buying the kit , I think it was like $50, and doing it myself. It was basically some goop, a couple of metal rails, and some band clamps. You goop the rail, put it over the seams of the cat, and band clamp the whole thing together. It was pretty effective at jerry-rigging it. Yup yup, just got my 02...44K on her and it has the band repairs all over them---but they rattle!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chappy Posted October 9, 2007 Author Share Posted October 9, 2007 That is exactly what it looks. Should I just try to re goop. I don't smell the cat at all so maybe internally it's still good?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldy Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 That is exactly what it looks. Should I just try to re goop. I don't smell the cat at all so maybe internally it's still good?! I would try that first cause its gonna be way more to replace them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldy Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 My goop only lasts a little while before you can hear the exhaust leaking again. I've taking it apart twice and regooped it when I've failed inspection. Last time I put some high temp red stuff (maybe RTV?) instead of the stuff Nissan gave me. That only lasted long enough to get a sticker basically. I am too cheep to have the cats replaced for $1000 or whatever it is, so I guess this will be an annual project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 My local junkyards sell used cats for about $150, or $175 installed i passed smog with a junkyard cat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navygz19 Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 Both my cats leak horribly, and sound terrible when the engine's warmed and in D while sitting stationary with my foot on the brake (so the engine goes under a bit of load and drops the RPM's down) that's when it sounds worst. These stock exhausts SUCK!! Of course I've probably rattled and shaken mine to death over time with wheeling. Hell, I sawz-alled my stock exhaust off on a run a few months ago from the resonator back...it was so rusted the tubing had completely snapped on it's own and the rear portion (that I ended up removing) was just dangling by the hangers. Pics of this: Paul (97vapathy) giving me a hand: DONE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 haha - i bet it sounded good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissandoms47 Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 I wouldnt leave it like that for long man, the exhaust heat is now directed right at the floor of the cargo area/back seat. I did that awhile back (cut off the resonator dealy like you did) and I started getting smoke coming up behind my rear seats. Something was starting to melt. So just FYI. I bet a magnaflow would sound meaty with that VQ haha - i bet it sounded good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navygz19 Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 I wouldnt leave it like that for long man, the exhaust heat is now directed right at the floor of the cargo area/back seat. I did that awhile back (cut off the resonator dealy like you did) and I started getting smoke coming up behind my rear seats. I was thinking about that when I did it, and I ended up cutting the pipe RIGHT after the backside of the resonator, before the bend occurs for it to go up and over the axle (and such directing the exhaust upwards) and when I made the cut, I made about a 45 degree cut downwards to help a bit as well. Only ended up keeping it like that for about 6 months or so (and it sounded pretty good too) then I failed State Inspection in November...now I have some cheap new weld-on crap there that was enough to pass me. The one thing I DID do differently...when I had the new rear section welded on, I had them bend the tailpipe so it doesn't stick straight out the back (as all 3.5's do) but a side exit instead (like the 3.3's) This way I can't snag it when coming off a high ledge, etc. as I did a million times wheeling before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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