chappy

I guess they technically are front pipe assemblies according to Nissan. The cats attach to the manifolds then the front tubes attach to the cats. Its confusing because they look like a conventional cat with the O2 bung and everything, but all they do is dampen the exhaust note thats why I just call them resonators. The two shops that I got quotes from both called them cats as well, so I just gave them the part store item number to clarify. You can find some plenty of after market ones from bosal and the like.

Passed no problem just mixed highway and stop and go for 75 miles and idle for 3 minutes w/ the ac and defroster on. It is always a relief to pass sniffers.

I just got the pathy ready for inspection "sniff test this time" by replacing both of the infamous resonators that nissan wants 700 a piece for got both for 300. I also finally fixed the evap b.s. that I had infamous p1491 vacuum cut valve bypass valve 106$ (sucks for a little piece of plastic that has a metal housing 2 hose ports and solenoid). I reset the code after all was said and done by disconnecting the batt for a little bit and so far 60 miles no code. Normally after resetting the code the ses light would come on in 16-36 miles I just don't know if there is a drive cycle that I need to follow before getting her inspected I just don't want to get rejected for lack of emissions data, do any of you guys know the cycle for evap after a reset? Thanks guys.

I'm about to tackle an evap issue myself with the vacuum cut valve bypass valve. Is there any precaution that I should take. I know one of the lines to the cut valve is attached to the gas tank to process the vapor so should I cinch the vapor line from the tank?

It sits on the shelf just forward of the canister you can follow the lines from the canister to it. There are two bolts holding the shelf to the body kinda hard to see with the shelf in the way so just pull it down. I have had the same code for a while comes and goes. I don't know how much the part is looks easy enough to swap though. There is a tsb to check so I'll try to find it when I get a second.

Just an update my buddy works at a parts distributer and I had him give an estimate on a direct fit cat. He told me that a right hand side cat would be 110 bucks at cost. Not bad at all. I'm gonna call some locals to see if some give me a hand gettin those heat welded flange bolts apart. I don't have torch so I will likely need help. I could do the entire system from manifolds to the muffler cheaper than the dealer could do one cat. Could probably change all the o2's also. All i need is the cats figure might as well do both cause the driver's side doesn't look to far off.

Yeah I wondered about that also. I looked in the fsm and it only shows what looks like two traditional looking cats before the pipes join to the resonator. Anyhow the leak is coming from the right traditional looking cat. The site that has the cat I need calls it a catalytic converter, but they also have a converter that looks like one thats cut in half (pre cat?) that are in front of the regular cats. I'm not throwing codes for those though. I just need the the other ones after the sensors before the resonator. Universal swap?

I was gonna go the the patch kit route on my 02, but figured might as well go permanent instead. Most universal high flow cats are similar in price, but I only found one that was vehicle specific to the 2000-04 r50. I have read that universals can throw our o2's off and cause codes but, our 02's are in front of the cats no? Do any of you late model r50 guys run after market cats, if so what are some good ones?

I'm gonna bring it in to my local mechanic this week to have him look at it. If it is what it appears to be (the sealant between the case bodies) do you think this will be a spendy repair? It seems to be mostly labor.

Does anyone get hassled for having their tires stick out or being lifted? I was thinking about keeping my old stockers for inspections my new rims have 4" bs and the tires have the tread completely under the flair but the side walls stick out an inch or so. Most states are pretty strict and a lot probably depends on the cop also.

It looks to be the lower part of the seal of the rear case. I don't want to tackle this job myself any idea of how much labor this would be. I'll bring to my local mechanic to let them have a look. I don't think parts will be pricey but the labor might be the killer. I doesn't look like there is a gasket more like a bead of something. I found the plug it looks like the diff plug right 1/2" drive or something like that.

Yeah I'm thinking there is a loose bolt some where. I guess some of the Titans had this happen before. I'm not sure where the filler plug is I think it's near the top front and the manual says to fill it level to the hole so I'll clean it up tomorrow and get a better idea of where it's leaking from.

sorry '02 automatic se

While under the truck the other day I noticed a some wetness around the t-case. I could figure out if it's a seal or what, but maybe you guys have an idea.

I did my brakes today. My old pads were ok and rotors had tons of life but I put on new pads anyway just to check. After I broke in the pads a bit I took off my old rims and tested the 15's for fit. The passenger front has plenty of room doesn't even come close to rubbing. The same tire on the driver front hub rubs with new pads. What could cause this? I checked the hub were the rim is seated and there was no built up corrosion on a particular side to make the rim untrue, but something is different from the passenger side I just don't know what. The calipers are the oem calipers on each side. Pretty weird!

I did my brakes today. My old pads were ok and rotors had tons of life but I put on new pads anyway just to check. After I broke in the pads a bit I took off my old rims and tested the 15's for fit. The passenger front has plenty of room doesn't even come close to rubbing. The same tire on the driver front hub rubs more with new pads. What could cause this? I checked the hub were the rim is seated and there was no built up corrosion on a particular side to make the rim untrue, but something is different from the passenger side I just don't know what. The calipers are the oem calipers on each side. Pretty weird!

Yeah I thought about that also. This weekend I'm gonna throw on some new pads and check the results. Worst case scenario I'll be stuck with a marked rim from mounting and have to send the others back at least I didn't mount tires on 'em. Sucks but what are ya gonna do.

I think it should be fine once I take some corrosion off and actually put tires on. I would think that the rim would constantly rub if it was a problem. I just don't know how much the caliper expand once heated at a hard brake. We'll see what I find out today.

I just got my new rims in today. I got some soft 8's 15 x 8. I took a chance having an 02 r50 I didn't mount tires on them yet because I wanted to test fit them first. When I put on the fronts the rims will spin, but just barely scrape the calipers on the inside rim twice per revolution. There is some corrosion build up on the outside of the caliper could I angle grind a hair off the edge of the caliper with no worries? Or do you think I just didn't tighten all the lugs up enough. I put masking tape on the caliper to see where it scratches and it doesn't even rip the tape just barely rubs it on the outside edge of the caliper. oh and the wheels have 4"b.s.

Hola pakoe welcome aboard. My brother spent quite a few years in Rota he said that Spain was one of the coolest places to live. This site has an awesome bunch of folks from all over the globe, pretty cool!

That is a great find my friend. She looks to be in nice shape also. How many miles? Are those bfg at's on her?

I'm thinking of giving those gatorbacks a rip. I've heard decent stuff about them.

I just developed this also. On a cold start I get a quick squeal on start up but if I run in the store and restart it no squeal. It is New England winter time I figured some road salt and slush had worked its way to a belt but it has happened a couple of times.

I mounted the receiver to the plastic area next to open compartment under the radio and under the 2 aux tabs. I just drilled holes and bolted it in. I ran the wires down from there through the bottom of the transfer shift boot, under the e brake, and up through a drilled hole in the center compartment to acc plug. I ran the antenna from the roof in the rear down the sill of the rear hatch and and under the carpet to the same path as the power supply. I just made sure to put notches in the metal under the hatch weather stripping to prevent pinching the wire. I figured it was ok to leave it plugged in but just wanted to verify. Next I want to mount the remote to the steering wheel some how or I might mount it just forward of the arm rest with some kind of hinged bracket so I can fold the remote down to the console or up for use. -Chap

I just got xm sat radio for xmas and installed all the wiring well hidden under the carpets and center console and what not. I ran the cigarette power cord from the unit through the transfer case boot all the way back under the e brake and into the storage compartment between the front seats so I could use the outlet in there. My question is, does the outlet have a constant draw with something plugged in or can I leave the cig adapter plugged in with no problems. The light on the adapter goes off when the truck is off so I'm thinking I can just leave it plugged in, but just wanna be on the safe side. By the way Merry Xmas fellow pathy lovers!!!! -Chap