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Clutch Problems


Little Mule
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Hi all,

 

I was coming back from a weekend trip and started to have some problems. I believe it is my clutch. I have an 88 Pathy SE w/ V6 and manual tranny.

 

In second, 3rd, and 4th gears, as I would get moving, the engine would accelerate faster than the car as if the clutch were slipping. Checking Chilton's and Haynes repair manuals, it sounds like is tis a worn pressure plate or clutch plate, or an oil soaked clutch plate. It could also be debris int e master cylinder, a damaged clutch hydraulic line, or a weakor damaged diaphragm spring.

 

Anyone have a similar experience? Do you think I am correct in my diagnosis? And the biggest question is do you think a relative novice can handle this repair? The most complicated things I've done is replace my rear springs with JGC springs, repair my gas/temp guage volt regulator, and install a JDM altimeter/clinometer on top of my dash. I managed those w/ help from this website. So I'm not sure how difficult a clutch repair/replacement is, and whether I should try it or fork over the money to a mechanic.

 

Thanks.

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clutch replacement itself is really easy ... but if you can have a helping hand to handle the tranny then you should have no problem at all ... if you follow your chiltons, you can handle it ... plan on a couple of days if it is just your self ... there are a lot of little things which need to be removed to do it ... but its basically a bolt on type of operation

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In second, 3rd, and 4th gears, as I would get moving, the engine would accelerate faster than the car as if the clutch were slipping. Checking Chilton's and Haynes repair manuals, it sounds like is tis a worn pressure plate or clutch plate, or an oil soaked clutch plate. It could also be debris int e master cylinder, a damaged clutch hydraulic line, or a weakor damaged diaphragm spring.

 

Sounds like clutch slippage which means it's going. How many miles?

 

You can do it but alot of stuff has to be removed. Tranny is very heavy too. You may be able to just scoot it a bit and have enough room to do the clutch without complitely dropping the darn thing but not really sure on the Pathy; I have on a couple of Fords.

Make sure you put in all new parts while you are in there (clutch plate, throw out bearing, seal...)

 

Also, the clutch fluid res. is right against the fire wall below brake master cylinder. Follow those lines to check to make sure you didn't crimp one if you've been offroading. Check the fluid level, maybe even change it. -study-

 

Good luck and plan on at least a couple of days. It's a bigger job (time consuming) then it may seem, unless you have an impact...

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Okay, I found someone to help me do it. (ie. He does most of the work and I help a out.) I'm fine with that. But I have a new question. Any recommendations on a brand or type of clutch? I think I should upgrade some. I dug through my old receipts and someone charged me $890 to do this 50,000 miles ago. I want the new one to last longer than that. (I know, probably a driver problem.) I saw one by a company called Exedy for $129 on ebay. I saw some by Centerforce on AC ranging from $330 -$390. Then there are Nissan parts from the dealer. I haven't checked out their parts yet. Give me some suggestions quick so I can get my truck fixed. Thanks.

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thats a good brand... they make a good quality product. Centerforce is good too - especially if you off road quite a bit. I personally just use the Napa High end one as it has a lifetime warantee, and it came with the alignment tool. I'm happy with it.

 

Be sure that you get a new pressure plate and throwout bearing as well. This will save you heart ache down the road ...

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50k and you need a new clutch? Hmmm, need to learn to not use the clutch; shift like a trucker man.

LOL. If ya can't find 'em, grind 'em. I've driven sticks for years and have never killed one till now I think (135K miles). Just don't touch it unless you have too. Its amazing how many people will sit at a red light in gear, clutch in, waiting to go.

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I tend to drive it hard, but I don't hold the clutch in unnecessarily. So I'm not sure why it didn't last. I wonder if something else may be wrong or if they just put in a crappy clutch last time. I didn't trust that mechanic.

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LOL. If ya can't find 'em, grind 'em. I've driven sticks for years and have never killed one till now I think (135K miles). Just don't touch it unless you have too. Its amazing how many people will sit at a red light in gear, clutch in, waiting to go.

Off topic but we're famous for that here!

 

Is it only bad to hold the clutch in while it's in gear? If is is in neutral with the clutch in I wouldn't think it would wear anything, but what do I know...

 

Also when you do hold the clutch in with it in gear what exactly is wearing, is it the clutch itself or is it just extra wear on the throw out bearing and cylinders?

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I believe its wear on the clutch since its a friction piece. Like driving down the road with your emergency brake on. Not positive about the in/out of gear bit, but I think it still wears. Oh well, who cares what I know, I drive how I drive generally don't have problems.

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the only thing that would see any load or wear when your sitting there with the clutch in weather your in nutreal or in gear would be the throw out bearing. the friction disk sits static between the pressure plate and fly wheel.

 

If you clutch is only partially disengaged or if you ride the clutch then you will wear the friction disk out. I drive as stated by mr. Pickles, (sitting at a light in gear with your clutch in) and i've put over 150k on my pathy and i've never changed the clutch.

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the only thing that would see any load or wear when your sitting there with the clutch in weather your in nutreal or in gear would be the throw out bearing. the friction disk sits static between the pressure plate and fly wheel.

 

If you clutch is only partially disengaged or if you ride the clutch then you will wear the friction disk out. I drive as stated by mr. Pickles, (sitting at a light in gear with your clutch in) and i've put over 150k on my pathy and i've never changed the clutch.

Well, people question me for using "High Mileage" oil too. I'll just sit on my soapbox anyways. :P

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Sitting at the lights with the clutch engauged should not wear the friction plate as it is dissconnected from the the fly wheel. If it wasn't you would need to keep your foot on the brake to stop it from creeping forward.

The idea behind a clutch is to dissconnect the drive line from the engine completely, the wear caused to the friction plate happens during the engaging and diss-engaging process of the clutch as it transfers drive from the engine to the transmission.

The problem with keeping the clutch engaged when sitting is that it puts constant load on the pressure plate springs which they are not designed to handle. This inturn makes the springs operation weak, supplying less pressure to the friction plate, makeing it slower to grab the fly wheel as the cluch is diss-engaged, allowing more slippage, and there for a higher wear rate of the friction plate.

 

On a different note the most common cause, second to abusive driving style, of premature clutch wear is a miss-alignment of the clutch when it is installed.

Hope that helps,

Pete.

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a lot of people keep their foot on the clutch pedal too instead of actually removing it between each shift and while cruising ... it doesn't seem like a problem at first, but because the clutch is hydraulically separated from the flywheel, the slightest pressure can cause a small amount of slippage without the driver even knowing it, thus shortening the life of the clutch disc

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a lot of people keep their foot on the clutch pedal too instead of actually removing it between each shift and while cruising ... it doesn't seem like a problem at first, but because the clutch is hydraulically separated from the flywheel, the slightest pressure can cause a small amount of slippage without the driver even knowing it, thus shortening the life of the clutch disc

How right you are :clap:

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diesel boy, matterhorn, exactly. If you rev and only very slowly (dragging) engage the clutch that's what wears the clutch the most.

 

I normally only use the clutch for 1st gear when accelerating and when coming to stop to dis-engage. otherwise i just slip out of a gear and into the next one letting off on the gas a bit. on downshift you have to rev the motor up, 3k or so, and it slips right in. hardly any wear on the clutch.

 

Sooo, even when going out you can still make the necessary trips.

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  • 4 years later...

My grandfather was test-driving a dual-wheeled F350 with a long-throw 6 speed manual gearbox... (was for my uncle down in SC who thinks he needs it to tow an equipment trailer that my pathfinder could easily tow *sighs* My uncle isn't very bright)...

 

Was interesting... he used to drive for Greyhound... 30 some years ago. After about 5 minutes of sitting at a stop sign trying to figure out the system, we realized the problem - the throw was almost twice as long as he was used to 0o' Once he figured that out, we hopped on the highway and he flew thru all 6 gears without touching the clutch once 0o'

 

I was like O_O

 

PS - I'm only just learning to drive a stick via my mom's Kia Rio - POS I know, but it's a light and forgiving car :)

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I just replaced the clutch on my 98 with 300,000km on it.

 

I just use the clutch for 1st gear accel from lights and usually from 4th to 5th (cause I've missed it too many times to bother) so my 1-2 shift, 2-3 shift and 3-4 shift is usualy done without using the clutch pedal at all.

 

The only time a clutch wears is inbetween your foot being on the floor and fully up position.

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