88pathoffroad Posted June 13, 2004 Share Posted June 13, 2004 Exactly. The t-case shifter will need to be re-bent, cut and welded or replaced entirely with a HB pickup shifter lever. The HB lever is longer to begin with and is for the same t-case, so it's a bolt-on part. I simply re-bent mine and notched the floorpan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted June 13, 2004 Author Share Posted June 13, 2004 Speaking of that, does anyone have access to a boneyard that they might be able to snag a HB t-case shift lever from and ship it to me? =) I'd rather do that than hack out the floorpan and bend the old lever. If anyone can grab one, I could, um, compensate you for your efforts. Aren't any junkyards around here that have jack for Nissans. =( Looked on the parts pages, but they're mostly body parts anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted June 13, 2004 Share Posted June 13, 2004 You may try and see what a boneyard would charge to pull the part and ship it. There are a few around here that probably have it, and I'd look, but I'm wrapped up in work and family stuff Saturdays for at least the next month or so. Its also about a 50 mile round trip. I could provide names and phone #'s if you're interested in that route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted June 13, 2004 Author Share Posted June 13, 2004 Thanks, sure, I'll take some names of some places that might have it. =) If I'm lucky someone else on here will be able to find one, or maybe I can find one off the 'net somewhere, but thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted June 13, 2004 Share Posted June 13, 2004 Cool, these 2 have some, 1 was the donor of my steering stabilizer. South Hill Auto Wrecking: (253) 841-2073 Meridan Auto Wrecking: (253) 847-1922 & (253) 847-6367 As usual, be sure to beat them down on price if you can. They obviously will try for top dollar, but I worked them down big time on the first try. Not sure what you can do over the phone, but who knows. I'll let you know if I catch a break and am going down that way sometime soon. Maybe somebody else local can do the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted June 14, 2004 Share Posted June 14, 2004 Usually when they pull the drivetrain out of the vehicle they keep the shifter on the t-case or they just take it off and throw it away. I've never seen HB shifters left in the vehicles at my local place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted June 14, 2004 Author Share Posted June 14, 2004 Bummer. I'll call around and see if I can find one... if other people have done it then there have to be at least a few to be found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepRescueService14 Posted June 14, 2004 Share Posted June 14, 2004 i didnt have to do any hacking on on my 95 manual type... if you have an oxy acetylene rig great, or go spend 25 bucks on a mapp gas torch and bend it... take your shift boot off.. make a heat shield and place it on the left side of the shifter ( so you dont burn your carpet from the floorpan, it catches stuff on fire!) and have a frend place a cheaterbar on the lever, place it in 4wd or N and push forward while you heat it.. make sure you bend it low enough on the shaft though. you cant use the factory knob tho... makes the boot look squished... thats how i did it. full lever operation. thats it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted June 14, 2004 Author Share Posted June 14, 2004 Alrighty, so you don't have to take the shift lever out to bend it? And let me get this straight, you're bending it in the middle, so the top half is more forward, right? This is what the AC people said a long time ago: You do not have to extend the manual shifter if you do not wish to, it will work just as well, but to be able to go into 4lo with transfer case after the 3" body lift you will need to heat up the 4wd shifter and bend it forward so it does not contact the floor board after the body lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepRescueService14 Posted June 14, 2004 Share Posted June 14, 2004 well, do the lift first. you will see what needs to be done. then take yer shift boot off and look at it and see where you need to bend it... take care to put a heat shield so you dont scorch and burn your carpet and pathy to the ground, ive seen that done before in a muffler shop.. in all it takes like 20 min to do. BTW those dudes from AC dont know their A$$ from a hole in the ground Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted June 14, 2004 Author Share Posted June 14, 2004 Yeah, that's what I figured as far as the AC thing goes. Anyway, I'll have to snag a little torch from somewhere since I don't have an oxy-acetylene setup at my house. =( Thanks for the advice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepRescueService14 Posted June 14, 2004 Share Posted June 14, 2004 go to your local hardware store... a mapp gas setup is like 25- 35 bucks at MOST... now, i dont want to hear from you again until that body lift is installed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted June 14, 2004 Author Share Posted June 14, 2004 Hey, relax, I'm just occupying myself by asking questions until it shows up on Wednesday. So bored, I already started WD-40ing the hell out of the body mount bolts, but I might need to get something ballsier, we'll see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepRescueService14 Posted June 14, 2004 Share Posted June 14, 2004 see it never rains or snows here in LA so i didnt have to worry about rust or corroded hardware.. i feel sorry for the dudes that do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted June 16, 2004 Author Share Posted June 16, 2004 Alrighty, the body lift showed up today so I hacked into the box to make sure everything was there. This proved hard because I wasn't sure what half the stuff in the box was FOR. =) First, the green arrow: What's that? =) Red arrows: what the heck are these for? Yellow: which extension is this? shouldn't there be at least a few more hoses in here? Purple: what are these two bolts for? why aren't they the same as the ones in the bag? Thanks for your help, as usual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted June 16, 2004 Share Posted June 16, 2004 Alrighty, the body lift showed up today so I hacked into the box to make sure everything was there. This proved hard because I wasn't sure what half the stuff in the box was FOR. =) First, the green arrow: What's that? =) Red arrows: what the heck are these for? Yellow: which extension is this? shouldn't there be at least a few more hoses in here? Purple: what are these two bolts for? why aren't they the same as the ones in the bag? Thanks for your help, as usual. No instructions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted June 16, 2004 Author Share Posted June 16, 2004 Yeah, there are instructions, but they don't say what pieces are which, they have a huge parts list and it seems like I'm missing some things, mainly extensions for hoses and such. The blocks are all there, the big bolts are, I don't want to count 500 washers, but I don't know what those square things are for, and I don't know which extension they gave me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted June 16, 2004 Share Posted June 16, 2004 Green arrow indicates the fuel filler hose extension tube. Cut the fuel filler hose, put the lift blocks in, then fit that tube into the cut ends of the hose and clamp it down. Red arrows indicate the driveshaft hoop drop brackets. Yellow arrow indicates the fuel vent hose extension(I think). Dunno about a 93, on mine I had a little tube just like the big one you got. Purple arrows indicate the two rearmost body mount bolts(again, I think). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted June 16, 2004 Author Share Posted June 16, 2004 Yeah, in the parts list it says '1/2" x 23" vent hose', so that would make sense. Cool, thanks, I get it now, but one more thing... and I know I read about this somewhere, but I couldn't find it. The instructions talk about removing the power steering reservoir, moving it, and drilling new holes. This necessary? And the AC people included 10 of those special grade-8 bolts, all the same length, while the instructions indicate two different kinds of bolts, 4 of which are for "in the very back" and "under the doors", along with 6 other bolts. But I only got two of the black metric ones, like you saw in the picture. Do I use those for the very back mounts, or do I use the AC bolts for all ten mount points? And I noticed that the AC [or PA] people highlighted the bit on the instructions that says "Remove safety strap under driveline before lifting!" Thanks for all the help!. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted June 16, 2004 Share Posted June 16, 2004 I have no idea, and you're welcome. Ask Mikesmaximase for help on yours, he just installed his. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted June 16, 2004 Author Share Posted June 16, 2004 Alrighty, maybe he'll read this and respond. =) I looked at the picture of the kit on the AC site, and they show four black bolts as well, so I emailed them about the two missing ones. We'll see what they say. They're longer, a little thicker, and have narrower threads than the silver AC bolts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted June 17, 2004 Author Share Posted June 17, 2004 Alrighty, AC emailed me back, saying, "The kit contains 2 M12x 180 black bolts and 2 M10x180 silver bolts in the bag with the pack." If I count all my bolts, I have 12, two black bolts [they say SBE 10.9 on the tops], four silver bolts [they say W.T 8.8], and six other silver bolts [they only have a triangle on top]. Which two am I not going to use? Again, sorry about the questions, but the instructions are fuzzy on the bolt part, maybe its because the intstructions are for the earlier model, the bolts being the only different thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ba8ic Posted June 17, 2004 Share Posted June 17, 2004 the directions ac gives you are seriously not cool, i did my own 3"body lift and 3" suspension all ac stuff except for the JGC coils (wich by the way work just fine but dont give you that perfect fit you always want in any upgrade) and put 33" pro comp mudders. It seemed like everything i was doing had a minor or wholly crap this sucks hiney problem...coming from a newbie, meaning i havent done any kind of suspension work ever, i think it was pretty easy and feel confident doing another one anytime, its just all the jimmy riggin your gonna have to do that no one really talks about, or crap you have to do that is no where in the instructions, trust me anybody can do this lift just make sure you have a grinder, metris sockets and extensions some basic tools and a torch your really gonna want it to burn out your old control arm bushings and just for the record when you put your new Upper control arms in you dont put the inside washers back in....i did my project with an old time mechanic and he swears up and down its gonna blow up or colapse because i cant put the old washers in on both sides....itll work fine without em.... just make sure you get the bushings packed in the arms correctly, mine seemed fine after i installed it. and the rear bumper bractes are a joke, seriously i just said to hell with it and re- drilled holes for my back bumber and it looks darn good, the front ones worked fine though. theres a lot youll run into that isnt explained but trust me you can do it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted June 17, 2004 Author Share Posted June 17, 2004 Alrighty, thanks for the info... I haven't heard about any consistently major problems 'cept the transfer case thing [is that a serious problem? ] and I think I've got that under control. Heard that the bumper brackets are a joke too, so I'll probably end up doing what you did and drilling new holes. The instructions from Performance Accessories aren't too bad, I was just wondering about the bolt thing because it's really a kit for pre-1990 Pathys and the instructions reflect that, especially with the discrepancies in the amount/type of bolts. Anyway, thanks again for the heads-up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepRescueService14 Posted June 17, 2004 Share Posted June 17, 2004 you can leave that t case thing alone until you want to go into 4 lo, but yea, improvisation and common mechanical sense will get you through this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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