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02 Sensor Replacement


grie78
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what's it take to swap out an o2 sensor? mine's completely fubar'd, and my truck runs like it's about out of gas until it warms up. I've never changed one before, and the new one looks pretty basic, but I wasn't sure. I figured at the very least, my main problem will be getting the old one out, since everything else on the truck I've tried to replace has fought me every step of the way.

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You will most likely have trouble removing the old sensor. You can heat it up with a propane torch and use a long-handled wrench to crack it loose. It might help to douse it in some sort of penetrating oil (pb blaster, etc.), but you cannont drive the truck around after you spray it or it will get burned off. Once the sensor is out, I think all you have to do is connect the new one to the old wires and screw it back in. It might help to use some anti-sieze compound (just a lil' bit) on the threads of the new sensor so it doesn't get stuck as bad for next time you have to change it. Once the new sensor is in, all you have to do is reset the ECU and you should be all good.

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The most fun part is getting the old wiring harness off the top of the transmission and routing the new one back up. The 02 sensor is located right under the driver's seat or so on the exhaust pipe in front of the cat.

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as above. PB blaster is your friend. and a torch if all else fails. o2 sensors are easy to replace (once the old one is out)..... if your new one has the wires. just follow the route of the old one

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what's it take to swap out an o2 sensor? mine's completely fubar'd, and my truck runs like it's about out of gas until it warms up. I've never changed one before, and the new one looks pretty basic, but I wasn't sure. I figured at the very least, my main problem will be getting the old one out, since everything else on the truck I've tried to replace has fought me every step of the way.
If it is idle rough on startup, its probably not your o2 sensor, since the o2 usually has to be warmed up to work anyway. but yeah, i bought a new o2 with the intention of replacing the old one, but when i saw that i would have to reroute it all the way back up to the connector... i still havent done it, been putting it off
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I've had the new one for about 3 weeks, I just haven't had the time or motivation to replace it. it did come with the wiring, so I at least have everything I should need (including a nice supply of pb blaster). thanks for the help. again. I'll work on it this weekend and let you know how much of a pita it is or isn't.

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I've had the new one for about 3 weeks, I just haven't had the time or motivation to replace it. it did come with the wiring, so I at least have everything I should need (including a nice supply of pb blaster). thanks for the help. again. I'll work on it this weekend and let you know how much of a pita it is or isn't.

it is EASY to do. not a PITA. running the wires is easy as well. a person standing at the fender on the pass side as you push the wiring over the bell housing is a bonus. that way they can grab the new wires, and shove the old ones down to you. ;)

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can you tie the new sensor end to the old sensor and just pull the old harness thru

no. their wires are in a protective sleeve..... it's really easy. you'll see where the old o2 goes through.... it's the only one like it... ;)

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couldn't work on it yesterday, had to buy new wrenches, the ones I had were too small. then did work around my grandparents' place. if it's not the o2 sensor, like gxl90rx7 said, what could be the malfunctioning part?

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  • 2 weeks later...

my truck is still having trouble running, so I checked out the egr valve yesterday. I noticed that the line that comes out of the bottom end of the valve going into the tbi(?) wasn't screwed in at all, and was caked with carbon. I cleaned it up a little and screwed it back in. unfortunately, I was wrong to hope that was the problem all along, since it ran just as bad this morning on my way into work.

 

some days it starts out fine when the engine is cold, then 1/2 mile down the road, it would start to sputter and the tach. would drop about 1500-2000 rpms, only to kick back in and take off throughout the first 4 miles to work (then it'd run fine for the last 4 miles). other days it's just the opposite.

if the problem leads to my egr valve (as it seems), is there a way to clean it out? I work in a machine shop, so I have access to a lot of different tools and chemicals (if needed), or will I simply have to replace it?

 

I called the local Pepboys and they said there's two types: one for $90, and the other for $160. I just have to give them the oem # to match whichever part I'd need.

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Do you have a check engine light on? Typically, if either the EGR, or an O2 sensor is malfunctioning, you'll get the light. If so, run the codes to see what your actual issue is.

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the check engine light does come on, but it's intermittent. it's off when the truck is running rough, but once it starts running smoothly, the light comes on, and then back off when it starts to sputter again. I don't really get it, but I will have to check the codes to be sure.

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