A Couple Of A/c Questions

[MadManMike]

Hi guys,

I am putting in a new a/c system in my vehicle, and I see on ebay they have A/C compressors " Calsonic DKV14C A/C Compressor" w/clutch for $150.00 new, now going off of what my local store charges that is about half the price. Does that seem like a good deal to you? He claims they are the last of the after market A/C compressors that they are making for the pathfinder from that company (I guess they are discontinuing that model).

I plan on getting most of the other parts from the junk yard, I just heard that the compressors go bad after a while and figure I don't want a used one.

 

2nd Q's

How hard on a scale of 1 to 10 (1 being changing the oil, 10 being changing your timing belt) you think it is to hook up the whole a/c system? my car is already wired for it and has all the hoses in it. It's just missing everything else. Also is it possible for me to fill it with coolant or is that something I would have to bring it in for?

 

 

Thanks

-Mike

[Simon]

From what I hear, you shouldn't go with junkyard parts for the A/C system. Once the lines have been opened (leaks, or blown lines) typically they contaminate quite quickly. I investigated my options for getting my AC back up and running after one of the fittings on the condenser blew on mine. I was told at the very least I'd need a new evaporator, and condenser (due to the blown fitting). There are recharge kits available at auto parts stores that you could use to charge the system yourself. Around here (Toronto, Ontario, Canada) they're around $70-100.

[MadManMike]

From what I hear, you shouldn't go with junkyard parts for the A/C system. Once the lines have been opened (leaks, or blown lines) typically they contaminate quite quickly. I investigated my options for getting my AC back up and running after one of the fittings on the condenser blew on mine. I was told at the very least I'd need a new evaporator, and condenser (due to the blown fitting). There are recharge kits available at auto parts stores that you could use to charge the system yourself. Around here (Toronto, Ontario, Canada) they're around $70-100.

Thanks for the info... if I have to replace the condenser, compressor and the evap... rollin down the window is a lot cheaper

 

I looked and I still have a evaporator in my pathy. Problem is I don't know why they took out the rest of the system. I suppose there could be metal shards or some kind of debris in it.

 

So if I took a chance with my evaporator being good it would only cost me about $250 to get a new a/c system.... a evaporator is about $100 on it's own.

 

meh... maybe after I get my timing belt fixed

 

-Mike

[Simon]

Okay....the evaporator is the most important part, oddly. It acts as a filter for anything in the system. If ANYTHING....that has to be new. The condensor (rad like thing in front of your rad) can be old/used.....though, make sure it'll still seal, and that the fittings aren't rotted. If your compressor still turns when engaged, it's probably fine.

 

You're right though, it is cheaper to roll down the window......plus, if you wheel it......you may want to look into swapping your alternator into the AC Compressor location. I've been toying with the idea for a while.

[msavides]

The most important thing to be replaced in an a/c system that has been opened its the receiver/dryer. It has removes moisture from the system and if it has been left open it has absorbed all the moisture out of the air that it can and it will not be able to absorb any more. It is possible to flush all the other components in the system except the compressor with denatured alcohol to clean any impurities. The receiver/dryer has to be new. Also it is a must to flush out any items that have the oil from an r-12 system when converting to r134a. and never reuse a receiver/dryer from an r12 system in r134a. The oils are not compatible with each other. You also cannot flush the evaporator without removing it from under the dash. There is a valve and orifice that makes it almost impossible to flush when left inline and you don't want to flush the valve. So with that being said you can reuse parts as long as you clean them. Also if you flush a part and you get metal shavings or other debris to flush out, It probably is not a good idea to use it since you will not be able to get it all out and one of those shavings could take out a compressor or clog your valve/orifice. and replace every seal o-ring you come across. you do not want a leak. Unless you have a A/C Vacuum pump you will not be able to evacuate the system properly and you will not be able to charge it with freon. The system has to be under a vacuum. Also putting the system under a vacuum and letting it sit will elp verify you do not have a leak, but you will not be sure until you charge the system.

 

 

 

Mark

 

 

 

 

 

Okay....the evaporator is the most important part, oddly. It acts as a filter for anything in the system. If ANYTHING....that has to be new. The condensor (rad like thing in front of your rad) can be old/used.....though, make sure it'll still seal, and that the fittings aren't rotted. If your compressor still turns when engaged, it's probably fine.

 

You're right though, it is cheaper to roll down the window......plus, if you wheel it......you may want to look into swapping your alternator into the AC Compressor location. I've been toying with the idea for a while.

Edited May 8, 2007 by msavides

[Simon]

Dammit....you're right. I know what I was thinking.....but I used the wrong terminology. It's the receiver/dryer I was referring to. The little canister beside the condensor.

[adamzan]

I've got a question, my a/c had always worked great, real cold, then one day after a while, you go and press the a/c button, and nothing, the compressor doesn't even try to engage, my fan selector only works on 1 and 2 also. Any ideas. I really want my a/c!!!.

 

And by the way, on the highway its cheaper to use the a/c, because of drag created by the windows.

[Simon]

check the A/C fuse.

 

And I'm not sold on the AC being cheaper. I've run with the windows down, and the AC when it worked.......and noticed no difference.

[barthel]

There's nothing wrong with picking up A/C parts at a JY as long as you follow a couple of simple rules.

 

Make sure before you connect the part to anything that you blow it out well. A/C systems don't like dirt or dust (non-condensables).

 

Make sure your connections are tight. Pressurize the system with air (to about 200#), then spray all your connections with soapy water. Any leaks will bubble.

 

Once the systems tight, you'll need to pull a vacuum on it. You'll need to have it under vacuum (30") for about an hour (this will cook off any other contamination left over by moisture).

 

Recharge the system. You can try to weigh the charge in (you'd need a refer scale or a dial-a-charge) but the easiest way to do it is by the sight glass on top of the receiver/drier. Hook up the refrigerant to the low side(suction) of the system. Make sure the canister of refrigerant is upright so you're not feeding it liquid, must be gas only. Run the A/C system and watch the sight glass. It looks like soapy water running by the glass, as the system gets charged up, it will get clear. When there's no more bubbles and it's perfectly clear, you're done!

[msavides]

You could be low on freon. There is a pressure sensor that will not allow the a/c compressor to engage if there is not enough freon. Depending on the temp out side sometimes it will work and sometimes it will not. to check to see if the clutch try and jumper the clutch solenoid.

 

Mark

 

 

I've got a question, my a/c had always worked great, real cold, then one day after a while, you go and press the a/c button, and nothing, the compressor doesn't even try to engage, my fan selector only works on 1 and 2 also. Any ideas. I really want my a/c!!!.

 

And by the way, on the highway its cheaper to use the a/c, because of drag created by the windows.

[MadManMike]

Forgot about this post

 

Okay well thanks for your info...

So I wonder how much it cost to have it recharged by a pro ? because it looks like thats something I won't be able to do.

 

The more I look into this the more I can hear the cash register ringing I figure I can get the rest of the parts I need for about $300 ... but if it's going to cost a bunch of $$$ to have it charged then it's probably not going to be worth it. At least for this summer. I already have a bunch of repairs on my plate.

 

-Mike

Edited June 2, 2007 by MadManMike

[adamzan]

You could be low on freon. There is a pressure sensor that will not allow the a/c compressor to engage if there is not enough freon. Depending on the temp out side sometimes it will work and sometimes it will not. to check to see if the clutch try and jumper the clutch solenoid.

 

Mark

 

 

where is the clutch solenoid, is it near the compressor, and how do i jumper it?

[msavides]

where is the clutch solenoid, is it near the compressor, and how do i jumper it?

 

 

the clutch solenoid is on the front of the compressor. there should be 2 wires coming from the front of the compressor make sure the wires are good and there are no breaks. follow the wires back and it should go to a pressure switch on the ac lines. when you locate the pressure switch just unplug it and use a piece of wire to connect the 2 contacts in the plug. with the ac on and the key on you should hear a click from the solenoid on the front of the ac compressor

 

Mark

[5523Pathfinder]

A even eaiser way to check the compressor operation is to jump the #3 and #5 terminals at the compressor relay. The relay is located on the right fender near the firewall( the last relay-blue or green). Disconnect the relay and look inside for the numbers. Locate those terminals, one will have power, the other wont. Jump 3 and 5 only! You should hear the compressor click, or if its running, engauge and begin to cool. Tools needed- test light and jumper wire.