BMXCARD Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 As the title implies, I will be installing a 3" BL, but I have an ARB bumper. Is there an adapter kit available or has anyone done the mod to the bumper to make this work? If you've done the mod, do you have pictures or plans? Your assistance would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 I will be doing that very same modification in 2 weeks. I'll post pics of the process, and the finished product after that. I have a friend who works in metal fabrication that's going to be helping me do it. He's done a couple of bumper relocations on Xterra's with aftermarket winch bumpers, so it should be fairly straightforward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 Don't forget I'll lend ya a hand with the lift and rebuild if you want man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 Could this part be spaced out with washers just in case the shaft gets seized on the tube part? I just dont feel comfortable cutting the shaft and weld an extension Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 Not safely, no. You know what's wierd, my TM BL came with a longer shaft to replace the stock one with...none of any of the other kits I've seen have one like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 (edited) Hope my steering shaft doesnt give me any trouble. Welding a piece of steel on that splined shaft to extend it just scares me Now on putting spacers on that T brace or whatever thats called,Why would you say that its not safe? I was thinking of replacing the 2 bolt with a higher tencile strenght also and maybe a spacer made out of steel instead of stacking up washers to make up for that extra lenght needed Edited May 2, 2007 by SuperSon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMXCARD Posted May 2, 2007 Author Share Posted May 2, 2007 (edited) I think I may have figured something out. I was talking with porsche966 today at lunch, and he gave me an idea that's much simpler than the concept I was thinking of, which included modifying how the bumper actually attached to the frame. Anyway, below are some pics of how the ARB attaches to the frame. I'm going to post the same pictures in a few minutes, but with red lines showing where I plan on cutting the ARB. More plate will be welded in to accomodate the lift. Edited May 2, 2007 by BMXCARD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMXCARD Posted May 2, 2007 Author Share Posted May 2, 2007 And here are the same pics with where (approximately) I intend to cut: The angle on the cut of the last two is supposed to be the same. The horizontal cut will be filled with a 3" plate or sandwiched with a bit longer plates, and the vertical cut basically just slides down 3" and is re-welded, with some extra plating added for strength. Is that clear as mud? I think it will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Extreme90path Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 Superson, Washers is what both my last pathies had for spacers. I first one came that way and my black one, the new shaft got fubbed up, so I did the same thing to it as my old pathy had. One thing though is you'll want longer bolts so you can add a proper amount of washers so that you can attach to the steering box properly. I have had them this way for years now, and I wheel it a lot and I have never had an issue. But that's just me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 I was planning on longer and stronger bolt if this is my only option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 Could this part be spaced out with washers just in case the shaft gets seized on the tube part? I just dont feel comfortable cutting the shaft and weld an extension Check this thread on AC, someone else just did that: AC Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 Not safely, no. You know what's wierd, my TM BL came with a longer shaft to replace the stock one with...none of any of the other kits I've seen have one like that. I guess with the 4 inch lift on that TM you got its going to need that longer steering shaft or else youd end up with about 3/4 of the oe splined shaft left inside the tube which I think is not going to be safe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pavelow Leaks Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 Hope my steering shaft doesnt give me any trouble. Welding a piece of steel on that splined shaft to extend it just scares me scaredy cat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 Check this thread on AC, someone else just did that: AC Thread Thanks for that post G. Wonder why the guy have to put washers on his steering box if he was able to pull the steering shaft? He only lifted it 3 inches and a lot of you guys has done the 3 inch BL but never heard anyone having to use washers also. Could it be that its a hardbody? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 scaredy cat Hell yah.But if im not going to drive it on the freeway it wouldnt bother me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pavelow Leaks Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 (edited) Hell yah.But if im not going to drive it on the freeway it wouldnt bother me I drive mine on the freeway all the time, I didnt just cut a piece out and weld some in. I cut a piece of solid stock, machined a pin on each end to fit into the holes I drilled in the stock shaft then welded it up...it's not goin anywhere. Edited May 2, 2007 by Pavelow Leaks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 I guess with the 4 inch lift on that TM you got its going to need that longer steering shaft or else youd end up with about 3/4 of the oe splined shaft left inside the tube which I think is not going to be safe He has a 3in Trailmaster Body Lift, not a 4in Trailmaster Drop Bracket Suspension Lift my TM BL came with a longer shaft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 Thanks for that post G. Wonder why the guy have to put washers on his steering box if he was able to pull the steering shaft? He only lifted it 3 inches and a lot of you guys has done the 3 inch BL but never heard anyone having to use washers also. Could it be that its a hardbody? The HB 3" PA lifts came with a splined extention piece. He bought his kit used and that piece was missing so he did the washer stack. Usually we don't need the extention on our Pathys for the 3" because we have the same steering components as HBs but our bodies sit 1 1/2" lower stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Extreme90path Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 woops I didn't realize this was a 4"BL I did washers with my 3" ones ... my bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 (edited) The HB 3" PA lifts came with a splined extention piece. He bought his kit used and that piece was missing so he did the washer stack. Usually we don't need the extention on our Pathys for the 3" because we have the same steering components as HBs but our bodies sit 1 1/2" lower stock. ahhh....I see One trick that I was thinking of doing to make it easy for me is when I do the body lift I will loosen those two bolts that holds the splined shaft with the "T" to the steering box then I can just raise it up and put the blocks on instead of trying to raise it and have somebody bang on that shaft if it binds or seized inside the tube. Then after I have all the blocks installed I will use a longer bolt on the steering box if the factory one is not long enough then I will slowly tighten that 2 bolts till it pulls the splined shaft out of the tube and the "T" end is flush with the steering box then pull the 2 longer bolts and put the factory one. What do you think? Edited May 3, 2007 by SuperSon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pavelow Leaks Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 why would you leave the shaft in during the lift? Take it out soak it in PB blaster and you should be able to extend it. I couldn't but, I'm sure it's not a normal occurance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 What Im saying is just in case it seize up in there I dont have to bang on it .I dont wanna run back and forth jackin up the bottle jack at running up front under the hood to tap the tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pavelow Leaks Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 remove it completely, soak it, and it should adjust freely, and once the body lift is on you dont need to jack it up to install it....you can just do it through the wheel well. Do what you want, but I think it's easier to remove it completely, lube it, see if it is stuck..then go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 remove it completely, soak it, and it should adjust freely, and once the body lift is on you dont need to jack it up to install it....you can just do it through the wheel well. Do what you want, but I think it's easier to remove it completely, lube it, see if it is stuck..then go from there. In that case thats what im going to do.Im just going by the how to instruction...It was mentioned in there that if the splined shafts doesnt want to come out have somebody tap on that tube . Im just thinking ahead and if problem arise im not stuck at the base again trying to figure out what to do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 why would you leave the shaft in during the lift? I left mine in, soaked the hell out of it, loosened the clamp bolts and let it slide out where it needed to. It was stubburn, but I just tapped the joints lightly and it moved, the stress on it made it move. Saved me the time and headache of removing it then trying to re-align the splines putting it back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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