giancarlo93 Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 Look where the arrows are pointing! Is that part is bend or not? My car pull very hard to the right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 first pic, no. second yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kn0xville Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 (edited) i dont think niether should have any bend in them. mine didnt/dont. And they are called tie rod ends. Edited December 23, 2006 by Kn0xville Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 Hey, at least they don't look like these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giancarlo93 Posted December 23, 2006 Author Share Posted December 23, 2006 About the bump stops, everytime I put new one, in the moment the suspension go all the way down they break. I guess they are too thick. 88pathoffroad Do your car drives strait when you let go the steering wheel? Right now mines pulls very bad to the right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giancarlo93 Posted December 23, 2006 Author Share Posted December 23, 2006 Thanks for the information. I went out and bought 2 sets of tie rods, for a total value of $53.97 I dont know if mines are bend or not but I am going to put the new ones. Mines are 13 year old. Do anyone of you know this brand?, they look stronger that the factory ones. In the same place they sell the center link, same brand for $78, tomorrow I will check my center link to see what condition it is. Any way when I receive the L&p kit i will installed that one. But right now I want to make sure everything is ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kn0xville Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 i never heard of that brand, but aslong as they are straight and they tighten up, and for that price, you cant go wrong. And for less than 20 bucks, id get some ultra low bump stops. Your going to need an alignment after putting the new tie rod ends on too. Did you already put an order in for an L&P setup?? if so, youll love it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 Yes I have a couple of bent 555's that I got from another member. I was told that they are MOOG parts which have a lifetime warranty He gave them to me because he SAS'ed his truck and no longer need them. I have yet to try and exchanged them... anyone have a MOOG receipt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 Those are good tie rods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88blk4x4 Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 Yes I have a couple of bent 555's that I got from another member. I was told that they are MOOG parts which have a lifetime warranty He gave them to me because he SAS'ed his truck and no longer need them. I have yet to try and exchanged them... anyone have a MOOG receipt I used to work for federal mogul which makes the MOOG parts, they told you right, they have a lifetime warranty on them....if you have a Advance auto parts nearby, they carry moog and you can usually get parts made up w/o a reciept or anything....what I normally do is take them the part and give my phone # and let them look, then act surprised when they cant find it in your history....all moog parts has their name on the rubber boot, so you can use that to prove its a moog part and get it replaced Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giancarlo93 Posted December 24, 2006 Author Share Posted December 24, 2006 Ok im gonna have to ask! what is MOOG? My parts only read made in japan and an emblem with 555 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 ^^^ http://www.federal-mogul.com/en/Aftermarke...uspensionParts/ btw. i wouldn't blow the $80 on a CL if you're to get the L&P one here soon. your TREs are shot.. at least some of them and you already have the replacements so do those. save the straight ones for trails spares. off the bent ones, maybe pull the rubber boots off for another use too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 I would go ahead and install the new Tie Rod Ends (TRE's for short) to get the truck to steer better. You can probably just count the threads on your old ones and adjust the new ones to match or do a "driveway alignment" until you install the L&P stuff, then get it aligned at a shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kn0xville Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 if theres alot of play in his CL ends, he'll destroy the new TRE's. I'd also wait to install them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89_trailboss Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 Hey, at least they don't look like these. 88, plz dont tell me thats your front end... if it is, what do you expect? haha. you cut the bumpstop parts off your UCA?!?!?! And nice CV angles!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89_trailboss Posted December 25, 2006 Share Posted December 25, 2006 I thought that 555's were dana corp. product? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 25, 2006 Share Posted December 25, 2006 555's are made by the Three-Five company. It's a Taiwan company that makes suspension parts for a lot of different distributors. That *was* my front end, and the UCA's came that way. *shrug* I got 'em used from a local guy that did an SAS on his Pathy, which now rolls on 37's. The CV's live as long as I don't mash the gas with the front end at full droop. One day I WILL figure out how to mod these damn CV's so they'll take more angle...perhaps a spacer like the Chevy truck IFS lifts use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89_trailboss Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 555's are made by the Three-Five company. It's a Taiwan company that makes suspension parts for a lot of different distributors. That *was* my front end, and the UCA's came that way. *shrug* I got 'em used from a local guy that did an SAS on his Pathy, which now rolls on 37's. The CV's live as long as I don't mash the gas with the front end at full droop. One day I WILL figure out how to mod these damn CV's so they'll take more angle...perhaps a spacer like the Chevy truck IFS lifts use. but why? just sas the damn thing. I couldnt amagin wheeling my truck with those CV angles. when I had my Tbars cranked alll the way up (stock UCA), I was going threw CV's about as fast as I was gas. it was stupid. I did/do wheel ever weekend(or just about) and im not sure how much you wheel. but after 2 months, my front end got lowerd. Spacers would be cool tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88_Pathy Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 I dont think that having the t-bar cranked high has anything to do with going through CVs. It is the droop with no bump stops. I have the same set up as 88 and it has treated me well so far aside from some clicking at full droop. I would like to make some spacers like 88 said because a SAS is out of the question for a long while so a sturdier IFS would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89_trailboss Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 (edited) I ran my tbars cranked(UCA on frame(no bumpstops)). the amount your Tbars are cranked DOES effect the CV's and how fast you go threw them. think of if like this, you have your Tbars cranked all the way(when I say this, I mean untill your UCA are on the frame) your front end is at full droop. so your CV's are always at a bad angle. the clicking is a bad sound. get on some rocks and tell me how long your CV's last. even worse, get on some snow coverd rocks-where traction is soo unpredictable. one tire will spin, melt the thin layer of snow and hit rock. I promise you your CV's wont last long. Like I said, I wheel my truck almost every weekend. on sundays if im not fixing my truck(which may I add is almost alway my front end), its not unusual for me to be gone for 6-8 hours cause were hitting up trails. If I only wheeled once a month or less (like many member here do) my CV's would last a very long time(also like many other members) my 2 cents Edited December 29, 2006 by 89_trailboss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89_trailboss Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 I would like to make some spacers like 88 said because a SAS is out of the question for a long while so a sturdier IFS would be great. if you honestly want a sturdier front end, do your self a favor. buy some stock bumpstops and lower your front end down. you dont NEED that lift. hell, ive been driving around for the last 2 weeks with 33's(xterrians also) with only a 3" BL and had NO rubbing(untill my body shifted) granted my rims have alot to do with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 I'm with 89_TB.....no need to crank too high. I've got about an inch of space between my upper bump stops, with stock UCA's and I'm running 32" tires. With a BL, I'd fit 33's easy. Cranking them higher doesn't do anything for you, unless you try to wedge a 35" tire under your truck. The ONLY thing that increases your ground clearance is tires. Lifts just give you more room to fit bigger ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 I've had no problems with my CV joints... other than finding all the pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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