SteeevO Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 pssd so yeah i noticed this tapping sound.. and since i don't have tools right now i figured i'd just take it to the local exhaust shop (cause they are cool guys that know whats going on) and they found the leak.. they said the stud was missing.. then i asked is it missing or did it break off in there?.. the answered most likely fell out.. so i drove another 10min away and went to my dads friends shop to use the tools in the back and then i found that the stud is busted off in there... so now i get to take off the header on that side to replace one !@#$ stud. and now it will be more challenging because i'm 4WD now and i have that diff in the way from reaching right up there from the bottom... :furious: Why did i want 4wd again?? dang..atleast it'll payoff this winter.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92PathyXE Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 breath and let it all out.. breath....breath :furious: we are trained pros with this kind of thing. -argue- . ya it will pay off in the winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 Welcome to our world Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 (edited) we can honestly say "we feel your pain"........ but yeah. 1 broken stud would really piss me off. i had 4 in the last motor and 6 in the one before. Edited October 20, 2006 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M in KC Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 While you're there you might as well replace them all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 M in KC Posted on Oct 20 2006, 06:45 AM While you're there you might as well replace them all. Thow on some Thorleys to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
govols74n Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 (edited) I think ive got a broken manifold bolt too, it ticks till it warms up.....but i dont have the balls to look at it right now so shes gonna be this way till im ready. :sniff: Edited October 20, 2006 by govols74n Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 Yup... that's one of the few warts on these things. If it makes you feel any better, at least it can be eliminated! And it is unlikely to leave you stranded. Just annoyed. I had to pull the right side header to do the clutch, so I went ahead and changed all 6 studs over to the ZX studs just to be sure. The old ones weren't broke (yet), but I didn't know if they were the hardened ones or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted October 21, 2006 Author Share Posted October 21, 2006 umm yeah i have had the thorleys on there for about a year now... the stud still broke... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ONe21 Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 Mine makes the ticking noise as well. Is that what it is? I assumed an exhaust leak, but didn't think it would be broken studs. When you say that they are broken, do you mean sheared off in the engine or just the heads broken off? Also, where do you guys buy the thorley's from? I'm cheap and want to pay as little as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 Mine makes the ticking noise as well. Is that what it is? I assumed an exhaust leak, but didn't think it would be broken studs. When you say that they are broken, do you mean sheared off in the engine or just the heads broken off? Also, where do you guys buy the thorley's from? I'm cheap and want to pay as little as possible. thorleys from summit racing.. $340 to your door. broken studs.... what fun. see pic. play "spot the snapped off stud"..... 2 more broke off after that pic was taken...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spolar93 Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 thats why i replaced my studs with bolts. no problems anymore. when a stud breaks, it is usually below the surface, but when i bolt breaks, the head snaps off, leaving enough to use vicegrips to unscrew it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted October 23, 2006 Author Share Posted October 23, 2006 exactly what i am switching to...bolts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ONe21 Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 Wow, that looks pretty bad. How do you extract them without jacking up the threads? My guess would be to drill into the middle of the stud and use an easy out, but it seems like the studs would be pretty snug in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted October 26, 2006 Author Share Posted October 26, 2006 how i have done these in the past is to use a reverse drill bit and drill into the middle of the stud with the drill in reverse. then as the bit snags on the metal as you go in it is applying torque to extract it and not tighten it.. sometimes if you are lucky it'll snag and come all teh way out.. if not then use the SQUARE EZ outs. and it's not that big of a deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishead Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 I used a buddy that's a machinist. Told him I would kick his @$$ if he broke anything. He said that using a reverse drill is very risky, and he didn't want to do it. If you are drilling into the bolt and it starts to spin, if you aren't 100% parallel to the bolt you run a huge risk of breaking the drill bit. Now you have a hardened piece of steel stuck in your head. Never fun. We used a carbide machining bit to carve a dent into the head of the bolt, then drilled a 1/8" hole and hammered in an easy out. Removed 5 that way. They weren't seized which was good. I found that because the bolt doesn't bottom out, they shouldn't be too tight. It really didn't matter though because 1000km later, my engine blew. Got a "new" motor from a junkyard with totally seized bolts. My mechanic sent it to a machine shop and forwarded the bill to the junkyard. Couple more weeks and I should be back on (off) the road! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted October 26, 2006 Author Share Posted October 26, 2006 since the stud doesn't bottom out the bolt can spin either way... i'd rather have it spin out... but hey what ever works for you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 (edited) thorleys from summit racing.. $340 to your door.broken studs.... what fun. see pic. play "spot the snapped off stud"..... 2 more broke off after that pic was taken...... Slick do you have the part number for Thorleys at Summit? Thorley gave me this number THY-464-2-C so I called summit and the guy that I talked to said its $449 plus $9.99 shipping. Thanks Edited October 27, 2006 by SuperSon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 (edited) thats why i replaced my studs with bolts. no problems anymore. when a stud breaks, it is usually below the surface, but when i bolt breaks, the head snaps off, leaving enough to use vicegrips to unscrew it. What size bolts did you use? Edited October 27, 2006 by SuperSon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 Hey guys it just dawned on me while sitting here looking a slicks post with broken studs pic, What if you cut a groove or a slot with a dremel equipped with little cut off wheel across that broken stud then use a flat head screw driver to extract that bolt. When I use to install car stereos Id run across some security bolts thats just round and some has 3 grooves on the side (crysler factory rasdio bolts)I would grab my dremel and attach a mini cut off wheel to it and just cut a line straight across that bolt head then use a flat head screwdriver to unscrew it. Hope you dont mind if I use your pic just to illustrate this process Slick :idea: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psugrd2b Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 So gentlemen, (and I use that term loosely because I know off-road guys) I too have broken exhaust manifold studs. In fact, that is what has led me to your forum. So here is the question: Can you fix this problem without pulling the heads? I liked the idea of using the dremmel and turning the piece of s$*t studs into screws, especially since they're giving me the screw job now. How practical is it really? What is the best solution. I'd love to talk to someone that has done it in the past. I love the Pathfinder, but she's about 1 more problem away from the car crusher. Let me know what you guys think. -Frustrated in Pathfinder Purgatory :oops: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 Absolutely possible! I'd estimate at least 98% of the repairs are done with the heads in place. Sometimes, there may be enough nubbin left to use vice grips. If not, you will have a little more work ahead of you. Having a body lift makes access easier. If no body lift, consider removing a few bolts and jacking the front of the body up. Otherwise, a right angle drill adapter will be needed, or try the dremel and a right angle screwdriver. The slotted head approach will work quite well if the stud is at or slightly above the surface. I've done that many times on other projects, and will ALWAYS use that approach before trying an EZ Break (commercial name: EZ out). One tip: If it doesn't unscrew easily, get a manual impact driver - the type you whack with a hammer. They come with screwdriver bits and really make a difference. My personal favorite approaches: If above surface: Vice grips If barely above or flush: Dremel If below surface: Reverse drill bit And if all else fails, try the square type EZ Break with the expectation it will fail and the head will need to be pulled. I won't try the screw type EZ Break unless I've already scheduled an appointment with the EDM guy... And don't forget the PB Blaster! Letting them soak for a few hours is far and away the most important step! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mishikwest Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 And if all else fails, try the square type EZ Break with the expectation it will fail and the head will need to be pulled. I won't try the screw type EZ Break unless I've already scheduled an appointment with the EDM guy... aint that the truth brother! ez Breaks are about as sketchy as it gets, in my book at least. m2c oh, living on the east coast for a number of years one becomes quite skillful at removing fasteners the hard ways. 50% of the nuts and bolts on (older) east coast trucks have to be cut off. Oh what a joy to now live in an area with no road salt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 My question as far as doing the dremel cut is would it cause any problem if that surface on the engine block gets scratched with the cut off wheel? Im assuming it wont coz theres going to be a gasket in there anyways but I could be wrong (more than likely I am ...hehehe) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bear claw Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 Hey guys it just dawned on me while sitting here looking a slicks post with broken studs pic, What if you cut a groove or a slot with a dremel equipped with little cut off wheel across that broken stud then use a flat head screw driver to extract that bolt. When I use to install car stereos Id run across some security bolts thats just round and some has 3 grooves on the side (crysler factory rasdio bolts)I would grab my dremel and attach a mini cut off wheel to it and just cut a line straight across that bolt head then use a flat head screwdriver to unscrew it. Hope you dont mind if I use your pic just to illustrate this process Slick :idea: you got it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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