tbecktold

That was my question. I've seen ONE pre-'78 truck in the junkyards here and it was a '70-'72, the previous body style. Just trying to be cheap/lazy.

Pretty sure it's '93+, I've seen a couple '91-'92s (bottom of grille is straight) that have 12bolt rears like the Amigos and Pickups. If the bottom of the grille is curved it's probably a newer truck and has a D44 rear, except for some 2wds have 10 or 12bolt rears still.

O rly...you mean a Ford d44 with the cast-on RA brackets?

Loving the progress though, and I bet the kids are too!

You've got enough family rigs...you know you want to throw the HB cab on here and double bob a factory bed...

Screw the tow rig! Add trailer brakes to the Pathy and tow the HB with it! Are you going to find a way to put a 5speed behind the V8 or use an automatic?

He narrowed just the long side, to use a Wagoneer axleshaft. At least that's what I think I remember. The HP44 is 65" wide and this one is 61"

Fiksed

I see the new X across the street, you guys get another toy? I really like that rear bumper with the kickout at the back. Is that to add a tire carrier later?

Troof. My springs are a little forward of most and I'm still about 3" higher than Ryan's pic below. My 37s measure out to 35.5" tall in front (worn) and his SSRs are probably a true 35", just to give an idea.

Awesome, that is LOW!

A week without progress? WTH?

I know of 3... Is there really that much play in that area?

Is this the 61" wide axle or the 63"?

Happy Birthday old man! Get any new toys/tools?

Quite possibly. Blue 4dr, red 4dr, I think they were rollers on the HB for awhile, now the 2dr? Next on the X just to keep it going? Stocks, it'd be good to see you back on the trail. Get'er'done!

Mookie has leaf springs front and rear on his Pathy and it seems to work pretty well. On my HB I run Rancho 44044s up front SUA and Waggy stock leaves out back SOA, it flexes well also. Like somebody else said, RUF (Rears Up Front) is really common in Toyota builds, usually used with Chevy 63" springs from a 1/2 ton pickup in the back.

Depends on which springs you use and how your orient them.

What did you do for the brake line conversion? I had custom brakelines made, at first I tried using all the adapters and stainless lines like Barry did, but eventually went to custom-made rubber lines. Personal preference. What did you do for the drive shaft conversion? I had Barry build me a driveshaft, my front axle is further forward of where Calmini intended so the typical adapter/XJ shaft wouldn't work. Where did you get your new gears for the axle? and What gears do you recomend i use for 35" tires? I bought used 4.88s for the front off a local forum, and used 4.9s from an Xterra off a guy on nissan4wheelers. For 35s I'd recommend 4.88/4.9s or 5.13/5.14s, either should work alright. How did you attach the steering linkage to the steering box/ pitman arm? I tapered an extra Nissan pitman arm to fit the Waggy TREs, I think any TRE from a Dana 44 is the same (older Jeep/Chevy/etc). Sometimes Calmini will sell their beefy pitman arms singly, I would get one and taper it if I had to do it again. What did you do for shocks and shock mounts? I used some Trail Gear shock mounts and chopped them a little to fit the frame. Then I flexed out the truck and measured for compression and extension, and got the appropriate shocks. I got cheap ones but people usually go for something nice like Rancho RS5000s or RS9000s. What spring or leafs did you use? I used Rancho 44044s SUA, moved ahead about 4" from where Calmini wants it. I get a little bumpsteer and the hanger sits a little further forward of where I'd like, but I like the way it wheels and flexes and the 34s (TrXus) stay out of the fenders with no bumpstops on my HB. With the way the frame bends and the shackles forward of the body mount, I switched the shackles side to side, and they work great. The Calmini truck uses 44044s with one spring removed, SOA. I didn't have a problem with bolts as someone suggested, and I don't see how the Calmini shackle in any position would keep from hitting the frame, or needing a window cut in it. My shackles hit the frame a little bit but it hasn't caused any big issues yet. It sits a little lower than this now, with a slightly better rear shackle angle. Dirty chopped TG shock hoops An idea of how far forward the front hanger is

Glad to see this come through! I also wish I was closer, I could donate a spare 33.

When the $$ allows. Like Ben said I've got the Waggy axle and have it partially cleaned up, but haven't pulled anything apart on it yet. I'm goin to concentrate on getting it under the truck and steering first, and then worry about gears/locker. This is going to sound incredibly stupid, but I'm hoping to use some of my school loan money from summer term to build it, if I can get it all worked out right. I'm hoping to have it finished by the end of September, so I can sell the Escort and be back to only having one rig by the time school starts again next year.

Probably spring under for now, 5.14s/lockrights f&r. As far as the NEEDing the SAS goes, I honestly don't NEED it. However, my steering isn't the greatest anymore (244k on stock steering), I've already had one UCA pull out of the frame, and the rest of my frontend is just going down the tubes. So instead of throwing $$ at the IFS, I'm going solid axle now because that's where I was going to end up eventually, it just costs less over the long run if I do that right now instead of rebuilding the IFS now and going to SFA later. Oh, and as far as the axle stuff goes. It was touched upon, but the newbies may not know about the different flavors of driver-drop D44s. There is the Waggy 44 that comes out of 80-91 (I think) Wagoneers, driver drop, already 6x5.5 pattern, 60" wide I think. There is also the Cherokee Chief/J10 D44 that is about the same thing, only a couple of inches wider, 62" I think. The other flavor is the Ford high pinion D44, it's about 65" iirc, is high pinion where the others are low, uses coils rather than the leaves the others use, and has a 5x5.5" bolt pattern. :tonguefinger: <--kick@ss smiley!

He's going to put 4.88s out of an r200 into another r200 actually, I think he just got confused by me saying I was going to use them in my c200.

The H233b should bolt right in place of your c200, no problems there. The diff you're wanting to put in the front is actually an R200, and it will require some grinding on the diff, and the diff drop kit from Spencer Low Racing. Should be sweet, can't wait to see it go together!

WELCOME BACK MR. JIM!!!!!!!!!!! As everyone else has said, awesome to see you back on NPORA again! Glad to hear you're back in the saddle and doing well! However, you forgot to mention how the Pathy was doing, on a Pathfinder forum no less, one YOU created? Lol, just a little ribbing, looking forward to the changes!