180sx

If you plan on buying the OME struts and coils, i would go ahead and get those while buying new upper mounts (not sure if the OME comes with new ones) and assemble it first. Easiest way to go. Well, in your situation sounds like the best way. And if you have some spring compressors, you can do this in your garage.

I wonder how extensive the wiring swap is gonna be on that? I remeber when i swaped a SR20 into my friends 240. No idea how bad it was gonnna be, spent the next 2 weeks figuring the damn thing out. (Then we found out we could just buy the modded harness!). Makes me wonder...

Wow, can i get a set? My bushins are $h!t right now, and would much rather buy these than bushings...

Hey congrats! Yes, some pics would be nice. I'm still working on the details on getting mine lifted (someone here knows what I'm talking about). Topping out, huh? Like when the struts reach their full length?

Don;t curently have after market wheels on my R50, but have experience from my old vehicles. Lug centric is fine, and won't pose a problem at all. The main reason for hub centric is for high speeds. You could buy hub adapters and use them fine. They do exactly what they are supposed to do: center the wheel on the hub. Thats all they are there for. Lug centric does the same thing pretty much. But as i said, the hub is for high speed, like road racing.

wow...this is great. *Starts singing* Oh where, oh where is Tyler Morgan, oh where oh where could he be...

You know. i took my pathfinder off road today (i'll post a couple pics) and the size actually comforts me. When i used to go with my buddies in ther Toy's I always felt uneasy about how much i slie around, and the idea of rolling (wich i've seen one too many times) with all that space to bang around in bothers me. But thats just me (i am not that big at only 5'8 and 165).

Wow...5k for a custom Jeep GC sounds like a deal and a half and leaves room to do some more mods if you compare it with the 4Runner. And it has a front axle already... The 4Runner is gonna cost more to make how you want it in the long run, but just like you, I have a thing for the 4Runner. And its always nice to do your own mods (even though having them done is SO convenient). I would say take them both for a test drive. You'll know exactly wich one you'll like. But don't let the amenities bias you (like the system and heated seats!). As for SAS'ing the R50, I'm sure Mr. Morgan could talk you away from that, but he might just sway you towards it also. He is really the only person here who could really speak on that matter (IMO). Either way, good luck to you in making the right choice! Jose

13" with 3.75 back spacing? Hmm...interesting...my buddy has some 14" wide rims that i want, but i need to check out the back spacing on them (how do i measure that on the rim? is it from the back of the hub to the end of the rim?)

Yea, I guess, but to run run even wider would mean the wheels would have to stick out a little more than I would like, you know? And I'm just going through ideas to getr a feel of what I'll be doing this summer to the ol' R50.

Oh, ok...any one know what the spring rates on our R50's are? Or even the AC springs? I was thinking that if this is the main thing, maybe i could cut off the spring perches, and weld on some new perches, with a mod to the upper mount, and run some skinnier springs to run some wider tires...a possibility?

Hey, So I've been researching, and it seems that the main thing stopping people from running wide tires is the struts. My question is, is it rubbing the actual strut or the spring? I haven't had an oppurtunity to actually look under my Pathy to see.

well, considering how cold it is, it would be normal operation. You have to remember you have a fan thats always spinning (except at higher rpms) so all that cold air is being sucked through the radiator, hence why its not always as warm. SO, you should get something to block SOME flow to the radiator. I don't know if you have ever seen big semi trucks or school buses, but durning the winter they have those winter covers on front to keep the engines from cooling down too much.

Hey thanks, Tyler. This is great. Clearly see what I need to build. What type of metal did you use for these? The engine mounts are just risers? Theres no angle or anything cut into them? And the strut spacers; looks like the top is at a slight angle, is that correct? If so, how did you determin the angle you needed? Or is it one of those obviou things when you actually look at it? Thanks again for your help guys. Jose

Hey thanks. I read through this post before, and ended up messaging Alex about some more info. Question though. Are you still going to do an SFD? Also, does any one have a picture of the engine mount spacer? thats the only thing i can't find a picture on!!

Hello Everyone, I've been doing a lot of research on the SFD. Seen the pictures, read threads, asked some Japanese dude who didn't understand what I was saying...Well, I still have a couple detail questions. 1) What material do people use for the blocks? I noticed that most of the people here have custom made stuff. So just wondering what is most commonly used. Would billet aluminum work fine? Or is there places where I can buy steel blocks? 2) The front strut spacer, does this have to be cut at an angle? Or does it have to be the same hight as the SFD blocks? I haven't really gotten an solid info on this. 3) The rear. From what I see its just a coil spacer back there that makes up the difference. Is this correct? Any one know how big the spacer would have to be? Or how its attached (I would assume a hole in the center of the spacer)? 4) Engine mounts. How did people go about doing these? I know you just can't make straight spacers (or can you?). I'm just trying to iron out the little details. I'm all searched out, and info is starting to spin in my head. P.S Oh, I'm trying to do a 4" SFD. I noticed that most people do a bigger SFD because of the steering, as they use u-joint's to add the extra length. I'm not worried about that as I know how to lengthen it as needed. So any help would be great. Thanks! P.S.S. One more thing, this will be on top of the 2" AC lift I'll be doing this summer. Thanks Again! Jose

Its not actually back pressure an engine needs, its the exhaust scavaging that the venturi effect creates in an exhaust system that the engine needs. back pressure just happens to be there as a result. And this is for non boosted applications. Boost is a diferent story, since there is already pressure pushing the exhaust out. And the Turbo itself cause a high level of back pressure in the exhaust manifold, like i said, about 20-40 psi depending, so you want as little presure after the turbo as possible.

Well, the 6" stack to you may look rediculous ( wich it is) but size is not why. Those cummins are turbo, and there is no such thing as "too big" exhaust for turbos. just be reasonable. Considering turbos make any where from 20 to 40psi of back pressure in the manifold, you just don't want to add any after the turbo, you know? quick question, not to TJ or anything, but i read that we have 4 cats. well, when i was under my truck today taking measurements and what not, i noticed i only have 2, and they are the ones on the manifolds. then its dual into a 2 inlet muffler, and single into another muffler, and than out the side. and thats it. just wondering if any one elses is like this. i've never seen the underside of another pathy, and ive had mine for only over a year...

Conclusion: Driving Habbits.

2.5" for a stock setup is almost on the large side. considering that its only 3 cylinders on each side, 2.25" would be large enough. But, 2.5" is good, and louder! Going 2.5" to a dual inlet, and 3" out is pefectly fine, and probably the most convinient set-up. I am in the process of doing a true dual exhaust system. 2.25" into muffler (havent decided wich one's yet, probably super 40's) and then 2.5" out of the muffler. I think that 3" out is just over kill, and looks kinda silly on something as small as the pathfinder. Just my .02 Jose

F'ing sweet! I hope all goes well and you are pleased with the end result...

this sounds interesting. I too am tired of looking at my dials, and would love the digital set-up. Guess I'll have to go to the junkers and take a look!

And if you have a Manual vehicle, its not recommended you install a remote starter. I know some shops won't even do it. Just imaginge what will happen if you leave it in first and then start it up cause you forgot...yea, some serious issues..

HOLY CRAP!!! This is exact;y what i've been looking for!! And WOW...this is alot more difficult than most other cars...well, the wiring part at least is a little different...no biggie. Thanks Bro!

If he says its on the gas cap side, then its not his exhaust. that's on the other side. And it is pretty obvious if its the exhaust. It could just be the springs settling in the perches. I know when i dropped some cars it made popping sounds the first time i went over 70. After a week or so it stopped and the car ended upi about 1/2" lower after they settled. buddy says his toyota did it when he drove at high speed and it was just his springs (his was a lifted tacoma). So it might be that. OR it could be your rear diff is in need of some new grease!