180sx

Yes, you can replace them no prob. just won't be able to use the switches in the cab, thats all!

I'm not worried about this as I would be removing the pre-cats off the manifold. So I've been talking to some people about exhaust setups (a lot of *gasp* V8 guys, and some exhaust fabbers here) and have come down to this. If the Xterra headers fit, then they would feed into 1.75" ID piping, into 2" inlet/outlet cats, out 1.75" into dual mufflers (Magnaflow 6" round, 18" long, 2" inlet/outlet) and 2" the res of the way ending with 2.5" tips. Doubt I'll gain any real power at all at peak, but hoping this will help with some low-mid range even just a little. But as long as I don't lose any power and it sounds plain bad ass, I'll be happy

I was thinking the exact same thing!

So you want no lift, but stiffer ride? So you look at lift springs and hope they won't lift your R50? Umm...hello? Just go get some OEM replacements if you want no lift and be happy...

Well, it could be your brake calipers (no, seriously). Check the the 2 bolts on your calipers are greased good. Had this issue before and thats what a friend told me, and sure enough, that was it. Weird, huh? Or, it could be your belt is loose? I don't know if that would be too obvious, but when you steer you are asking the pump to move more pressure, which puts some more tension on the belt (just throwing a random idea out there). Jose

Well, technically it IS "broken." So you should fix it!

if you look in like acr and driver, they have an ad in it from a company that sells these. just flip through the pages and you'll see it.

It could be just that since you unplugged the battery, you reset the ECU settings. Basically, your ECU knew what to do with the fuel to get it start right up before you reset it. Now, it will have to 're-learn' the settings again. Give it about a week or so. If it's not resolved in that time, then I would suggest the same thing 'BowTied' just said about the pump/regulator. Jose

Well, my dad has a safe switch on his car. I'm not sure how it works, or exactly what it's called. But basically he has to put a special key into this switch (wich is hidden) for the ignition to work. i guess its wired into the coil or something. Pretty cool little thing, and has (sadfully) been proven to work quite well (again, sadfully) on more than one occasion.

This is true...So even a 1" spacer over extends? Hmm...maybe do like Alex and add some limiting straps? I mean, if it could extend an extra .5" with out consequence, that would be great, and not have the topping out issue. Well, we'll see what B&G says about it when/if they answer back. Jose

Well, the exhaust I plan on is still in development. But so far it's looking like it'll be headers, then from them 1.80" piping into dual cats (maybe, I don't have emissions testing here, but the 02's pose a problem), then 2" out of those to mufflers, have an 'H' pipe inbetween the mufflers and cats, and 2" out of those to 2.5" tips. I'm still looking for a junked VG head to look at the exhaust ports to determine if this will effect the scavaging of the stock exhaust.

Mine used to do this. There is no light, unfortunatley. I do have to give Nissan credit, as they made these engines beastly! Anyway, it wasn't the thermostat. And my coolant level always seemed fine. Turns out that one of my coolant line brackets, specifically the t-stat bypass hose, had actually worn out and broke, and my hose was venting. Not venting coolant, just pressure. As you know, the cooling system needs pressure to maintain good coolant flow. Just my $0.02.

Wait for a second. B&G Suspension in California is the exclusive USA distributor of Proflex products. I contacted them about this to see of they could dig up some more info. Jose

Yea, I was thinking they would fit. I know they would fit the block just fine, but just wondering if they would hit anything on the chassis or what not. If I'm going to build my full exhaust, it would be nice not to have to spend 1200 on a custom set of headers.

You dont need to remove the springas and valves to take the head off. nor do you need to remove the rockers (right?) i don't have a WD21, but it's pretty universal.

Has any one tried to see if these would 'fit' onour R50's? haven't read any where about these (or maybe i didn't search hard enough?). And by 'fit' i mean clear eveything to build a custom exhaust off of. https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/product_in...roducts_id=4879

I have absolutely no idea to what you just said.

Yea, why would you change the valve? i have 152K on my pathy, and havent changed mine. Theres no need. The only thing i have changed is one of my Valve Cover gaskets (even though a few things still are pending, but nothing serious at all. That VC gasket was leaking oil on my exhaust manny and making it smoke!).

Hey guys. Thanks for the replies. I've been looking at all my options for this R50. From AC SL to SFD to SAS (buddy is SAS'ing his Toy so it would be easier to use his shop for it). Now, when i was talking to some guy at the shop, he saw the front diff, and asked why don't i just get axle tubes fitted onto the diff and make it a solid axle that way. I said that it would be weak as hell like that, but he swore on it. has any one ever even thought of this?

http://norfolk.craigslist.org/pts/1021983256.html So is this pricey or what? Sounds like alot of money to me for some axles...what do you guys think?

X2, especially if the OEM unit is the best one to use. a simple refresher kit (i.e. rebuild) and it will be all set!

Acording to AC, the warns fit 90-2004 HB and pathy's...

Well, that picture explains it all...haha. Hmm...OEM units...Would an '89 fit mine? Do the '90+ have OEM hubs? Would be a little cheaper to go to the JY and pull some hubs off of them...Or I should just not be cheap and buy the damn Warns...

vengeful, can't see what you are posting.

Whats the difference between the 2 hubs? Besides price...Is the Warn that much better? I've only seen one person with the Mile Marker hubs before...that might say something about them, huh?