180sx

Although I always try to put exactly 3-7/8, I'm sure I end up putting 4qt even any way (I buy those 5 qt jugs from Wal-Mart, so much cheaper than the 4qt things at auto stores). I remember I used to put 4qt in my Sentra all the time, for like a year I did this, and always wondered why the engine never seemed to rev up and get the MPG's like when I first bought it. Realized after reading the owners manual, that it only took 2-7/8qts. Doh! Haha, putting in just over a quart more of oil. Put it back to normal and i got my motor back to the way it was! even got my MPG back to 28 avg (was like 22 when the oil thing was messing it up, big difference!). So, from this story, just be careful.

Thats bad ass. Definatly let us know how that goes. BTW, what kit is this?

Tip: Be sure to 'scrub' your new brake pads and shoes, and to sand the rotors and inner drum surface to remove any kind of glaze or grease or oil or small imperfections. It will help the pads grab better and prevent any premature squeakyness.

Triple springs? Woa there buddy. We wouldn't even need double springs in these aps. I wonder if the 300Z valve springs swap over? Are they a higher rate spring?

Yes, wheel studs can be replaced. Just take your drum of, take a BFH and bang that sucker out. Then, put the new one in, and take a lug nut, preferably an open ended one (please be sure your lug nuts have the same thread pattern or they will stip) and tighten the nut to pull the stud in place. All done!

Well friend, I will come to the border and throw rocks at you for it!

Now now Chil'en, lets all be quiet...

So...do you plan on selling this beast when your done?

Well, I had a similar problem on my 96. Turned out the Valve cover was leaking onto my exhaust manifold (made a nice smoking show!). One thing to consider is that you switched to synthetic. Many people have stated that when you switch to synthetic, you can come across some leaks due to the fact that the synthetic is 'thinner' than the crude stuff, and that its 'cleaning' all the built up dyno stuff, which can cause leaks in places there wasn't any. I say keep an eye on it, check your oil levels at least once a week (which we should all be doing anyway...) and hope it all seals back up once the oil is all synthetic and the dino stuff is 'cleaned' out. Or, you can pull you valve cover gasket on the passenger side and see if it's hard as a rock like mine was. Wait...did you say your 97 only has 60K miles? do you drive it at all? Mine has 155k on it, and its only a year older...haha.

Hmm...guess you got me on that one...But hey, I'd still like to do it anyway. Just to have some kind of increase would be good for me, even if ot would be a 15% increase. And, it would just sound bad ass!

Haha..you're joking right? 15-25 more horses from 'cooler' air? What a joke. If that was the case, I would see that increase from driving in the winter time! An intercooler is only good on Forced Induction because as the air is preesurized, it heats up, hence why you need an intercooler to cool it back down. On an N/A engine, an 'intercooler' would only cause restriction actually causing a LOSS in HP. What a joke. Yea, this has been discussed time and again. You can't make any pressure with an 'e-fan' that could push more air than the stock engine could suck by itself, again causing a LOSS in HP due to added restriction.

Sounds reasonable to me. I mean if my uncle can gain 120+ lb-ft from just stroking his SBC (I know, damn Chevy talk again!) then I don't see why I couldn't gain 60 lb-ft from doing the same to my Pathy. Of course for us it would cost a bit more than just the stroke kit, since a good tune would be required making it cost upward of 3.5g's just to gain that 60-70 lb-ft of torque, and probably only a dismal 20hp, if that much can even be gained. Hell, I'd do it if I had the money, then throw on a supercharger and have one bad ass 'VG35E-R' rumblin' between my fenders!

Wow, thats cool. I definatley want one, too! I broke the stock plastic one and need something to replace it, and this is definatley the way to do it. So how much did this skid cost you to make, roughly? Jose

As for the welding part, you can probably go to a Junk yard and have someone cut a rocker panel off another R50, and get all that for about, I'd say $200 at most (I like to over estimate), take it and your's to a welding shop, have them cut your dented one off and weld in the new one for about another $250 (just be sure your carpet and all that is flamible around the area is out of the vehicle before you go). Then, prep it for paint, and all that good stuff. All in all, your probably looking at about $700 total for everything AT TOPS. I don't know what the prices are where your at, or how much labor cost are. Just an estimate from experience in my area.

Now how are you planning on keeping the stock body work??

umm...stroke it? (and i mean that in reference to this topic and also...)

Nice. So your going to triangulate the four link up front? Where do you plan on mounting the links to? are you going to make a custom crossmember for the tranny and attatch them to that? I'm very intrested in this build, this ish is bad ass!

Hey Tyler, Did you figure out your front coil setup? From the pics it looks like it's just the shocks on there. Just wondering how high this thing is going to be.

Hmm...I have to look at that on mine. I'm leaking oil too, and I don't know where it's coming from. It's all on the side and back to the tranny. Haha. Some of it was from the valve cover gasket though (hard as a rock when I replaced it!).

Power? Well, there really isn't much you could do from everything I've read. And, it depends where you want to make power. The best thing is to do a refresh. Check all your gaskets and hoses, clean your MAF and throttle body, check all your engine and tranny grounds and even add a few more (especially on the alternator). You could replace your fan with an electric one, but the benifits are slim, and if you live in a hot weather area, would be not a good move. Throttle body spacer is pointless. The only good kind of spacer would be a nylon one between the block and intake manifold, but even then the results are slim. So, good way to improve EFFICIANCY (key word) would be the following: Ground everything. Add some block grounds, ground the alternator, add a ground to the MAF, ground your coil. The more the better. Add a fat ground cable to the battery. Clean everything. The MAF, the Throttle Body, the intake itself, the cooling system, ect. Or...save your money and do the VG33ER swap...

Could it be the actual lever? I don't know if the lever has linkage (it should, right?). Maybe the linkage is loose, and so when you put it in 2hi, its not actually in 2hi. And when it disengages 4hi it's because you hit a bump or something that made it finally vibrate out? I don't know, just throwing something different out there. Jose

Anything New?

Year: 1996 Pathfinder SE lift : Stock/ no lift Wheels : Stock/ 15x8 Tires : BFG A/T 31x10.5 Notes: doesn't rub or anything.

rod-mobile...haha...thats a new one for sure!

Tighter suspension, huh? Well, some new struts and some springs would be a good start. Then replace all the bushings with poly bushings (make sure you grease these at least once a year to keep it good!). Just a couple things to start with.