k9sar

flame throwers?

I used coleman fuel (camp fuel (naptha based solvent)) and a brush. This will thin the ........ out of the oil so you better drain it and fill with fresh when you are done. If you have the heads off, use easy-off oven cleaner max (non-lye formula). AWESOME clean but wille at the metal if left on too long.

There is no orange wire coming from the radio. The orange wires are between the amps and the speakers

page EL-34 Download_Me wire colors: 6-connector L - Blue LG - Light Green P - Pink PU - Purple G/W - Green w/ white tracer R/L - Red w/ blue tracer R/G - Red w/ green tracer P/B - Pink w/ black tracer R - Red PU - Purple

Do you have a 6 or 8 speaker system small speakers on your columns, speakers in the main doors and a tweeter/woofer combo in the ceiling in the back. or a 4-speaker system with just door and rear speakers? it matters.... and the wiring changed in the 94 to 95 transition (and, in 95, the 4 speaker used the new plug and the 8 used the old one or something silly like that. What would help more is a picture of the connector you cut off so I could see the wires in position. I can then easily give you the right listing of what they are.

which shape connector do you have? I know there were some 95s that still had the 94 harness (made early in the production year). Use the second link that shows the harness. If that doesn't help, search the forums for a FSM (there are a few links) and look there. If you still strike out, post again and I'll host the FSM section for you.

pulled a big chunk of dried mud off my side mirror so I could see the faces of the people that I merged in front of (whether they intended to let me in or not). Had been camping on the weekend and got a tad bit of dirt on the pathy

I don't think there is anything useful in the owners manual that isn't in the FSM. Let me look in my stockpile of files and if I saved one from when I was crawling around behind-the-scenes at the nissan site, I'll see about making it available

there was no 95 issued. The base manual was the 94 manual. For 95, they released a book (much thinner) that contained 94 updates and 95 deltas. I have both books. There are also a few locations (one I know personally) where the pdf versions are hosted. A search in the forums should help.

If you have the tools and a place to work, it's definitely worth doing it yourself (and $150 still sounds a little high). Should you choose to tackle it yourself, do some reading and keep[ close to this forum, we'll help you through it.

new belt then a compression test. cross your fingers and say a prayer

I have a 95 4-door with auto tranny and I was unable to get mine out easily since the tranny lines were rigid and were not going to be removed. I took off the passenger side wheel and the spray skirt so I had fairly good access to the starter. Since it was malfunctioning, I figured I'd take it apart right there. The main thing that hit was the bracket/shield that covers the connector to the solenoid. one or 2 small screws and that shield comes right off and it is then EASY to get the starter out the front past the tranny lines and suspension. After cleaning the starter and fixing it (I have a post in here about how to do that), I zip-tied the connector to the starter and threw that damned bracket/shield in the trash. No more problems getting it in or out..

r u sure you got the right key fob? It should have FCC ID G57NTX318 on the back.

as one with 2 kids... my congratulations on your vision of what it will be like to be a mom... my laughter at the point where your dreams are shattered and you swear to kill Simon with a wooden spoon

gave mine a mud bath and cursed the squishy brakes because I think my master cylinder has gone bad

So I had adjusted the bracket that the door latches to... that worked for awhile. Then I added washers to lift it a bit... that worked for awhile. Then I wrapped the latch in electrical tape to make it thicker and grab the slide better ... yep, just for awhile. Finally got fed up and popped the panel off the hatch, stuck my hand in there and fished around until I found the connector to the switch. One quick yank and the problem is now solved. This is one fix where I wish I had little Japanese hands instead of my big American meat-hooks. Only lost a couple of knuckles trying to find the connector.

LOL... I knew someone would give me some sh|t

is that the order they were in? I think this is right (though I don't have an R50) P0463 Fuel Level Sensor P0182 Fuel Tank Temperature Sensor P0174 Fuel System Lean, Bank 2 P0420 TW (Two-Way) Catalyst System, Bank 1

internal combustion engines only require 3 things... fuel, air and fire. Check to see if you are getting fuel (check fuel pressure, pull a plug and see if it is wet with gas, etc. Check for air (probably not the issue since it would run rough rather than not at all). Check for spark. Pull the coil wire and hold it near a ground source. Have someone crank the engine and see if you get an arc. Alternatively, pull a plug and hold it against the block (with the plug wire attached), crank and see if you get spark on the plug. oh yea... it all has to be at the right time. If you have fuel in the cylinders, spark at the plugs and have convinced yourself that there is not a squirrel nested in your air intake, you might have a timing issue which you can start to investigate by disconnecting your coil wire, pulling your #1 plug, inserting a probe (chopstick, etc) into the plug hole and hand turning the crank to find TDC on that cylinder. Then pull your distributer cap and see that your rotor is near (forget if it is just before or just after when checking this way) the #1 post.

how hard are they to change (I'm getting tired of greasing them and it only lasting for a month or so) and yea... I could search but I'm lazy.

called it names

someone should call Vsicks to come visit this thread. IF all you people want to do it bitch and fight, take it elsewhere. Personally, I'm not a fan of the build (I still like windows and such to keep the cold/wet out) but I give credit to someone who has the balls to take a sawzall to his pathy and turn it into a project vehicle. I'm an engineer so I tend to look a bit more critically at design etc which is why I asked about cross supports etc. If he had none, I would have a good (in my opinion) suggestion for a design that would be fairly easy to implement and would take care of any pooling or flapping. That's the point of NPORA, to share information and suggestions for the betterment of our pathfinder family. You guys sound like my kids with your bickering. sheesh. [/soapbox]

new shocks and cleaned all my sports stuff out of the back so I could reload with spring sports stuff

I cut mine to pieces since I was replacing from headers back anyway