k9sar

any particular part of the wiring? I have the 94/95 service manuals but the diagrams are a multi-page foldout. If you let me know which harness (or plug location), I can scan that part for you.

Solved. The problem was a leaking battery. Here's the story... Back in 1999 (apparently, from my receipt) I bought a new battery for my truck. It was of universal fit type so it had both top posts and side terminals. Well... apparently, the positive terminal on the battery decided to start leaking The stupid board won't let me upload the pics so I'll throw them out on cardomain. (you can get at bigger pics here) Anyway... the acid dripped down and ran into the connector which is the fusable link. It proceeded to eat the metal within the connector. With the reduced ability to conduct electricity, every time I turned on my headlights, it got hot... real hot... like, melt the connector to crap hot. Because of the positioning of the connector and the fact that it was laced to the one next to it, it maintained connection (very poor connection) to the circuit. Since acid is a conductor, I was reading 12V and getting connectivity when I checked the connector on the steering column. As I said before, when I threw power to it, it would just get rid of the 12V of energy in the way of heat instead of making the trip to the lights. I cut away all the bad stuff, dumped a bunch of baking soda in the engine compartment to neutralize the acid that was currently eating at other things (like the high pressure line for the AC) and did some quick soldering. Threw in a new battery and we're good as new. more pics (sorry for the focus issue) the melted connector Notice the 3 wires (the fusable link) that fell out of the connector threw baking soda on it... copper fizz!

In metric 8.8 means Grade5 and 10.9 means grade8

Ok guys, this one has me baffled. A few days ago I noticed that both my headlights were out. As it was getting dark, I decided to throw on my fogs so I had at least some hope of seeing. Nothing there either. Additionally, the little indicator light on the console that saus your fogs are on was not illuminated. Marker lights come on fine and turn signals work fine. Checked the pair of 15A fuses on the side of the engine compartment and they are both fine. Naturally, I thought it was the combination switch which was listed as one of the common problems. I pulled it out real quick and checked the pin to pin connectivity in all positions and it all matched the diagram in the service manual. I threw a meter on the plug hanging from the steering column and I got 12V where I was supposed to. Around 11 last night, I got tired of the mosquitoes eating me alive and made one last check. I grabbed my ohmmeter, pulled the front right headlight bulb and checked the plug. 3 wires (matches diagram) Black should be ground.... checked that.... yup. Red w/ black should run to the combo switch (which was still laying on my bench). Checked that to ground... nope (that's good) Checked it to the connector on my column... yup. that's where she goes. Red w/ yellow should also run to the switch but when I checked it to ground.... BEEP! I should have checked to see if it had connectivity to the connector or if the connector was to ground (shouldn't be, I don't think) but it was late and I get up early for work. Anyone else have a similar issue? Any guesses on where to look for the short (if that's truely my problem)? Any ideas why, if there was a short to ground on that wire, would it affect both headlights and foglights? Thought I'd ask here first before tearing into the main harness and trying to trace the circuit. On a funny note, it looks like someone tried to steal my truck. The column cover is off and laying on the floor, plugs and things are dangling down, etc

it's wonderful how all these things work together to cause a real pain in the a$$.

check the connector on the top of your MAF. Next time it's running rough, pop the hood and give the wire and connector a good wiggle. That would definately cause a problem like you describe and it's much easier to find/fix than an ECU problem. If this does not work, I'm sure others will chime in with further suggestions.

under the rear mat, there is a mechanism. Use the tools supplied under the rear seat to change your tires. There should be a gadget in there to put on the nut and start turning.

I would suggest looking in your owners manual or around your jack. I believe sw is correct. When they moved the tire under the rear end, they set it up with a winch (though I don't know the mechaniccs of it as mine is on the tail end). Trick it to find what to crank.

something is open. It could be any number of things including the hood or tailgate latch also. Mine had a bent pin on the connector to the alarm unit and was not making contact. It would, however, activate the locks and such. Since you are experiencing an open sensor as well as no operation to the locks, I would make sure your connector is in fully. Could have come loose with wheelin or shoving things under the seat. Unplug it, make sure all your pins look straight and shove it back in. Hope it works for ya.

hope this helps

I would grab a harness diagram and find the location of the F28 (or is it F26) connector and follow it back towards the coil. If I rember to, I'll check my service manual when I get home.

'cept that they're Pacesetter headers :oops: cheaper can be found on ebay (even with shipping costs)

most definately. Read the entire thing first and try the free stuff. If it doesn't fix it, start with Mike's solution and work your way back.

neither will my wife.

I needed some metric head bolts for a honda that I had so I went to the local u-pull-it junkyard and found a parted engine. .10 each for the bolts. 1.59 for the box of band-aids I needed for my knuckles after tearing apart an old engine.

share?

wasn't Restore the product that advertised that it "bonds to engine components" to repair the cylinder walls etc? I'm not sure I want to put anything in my engine that BONDS to anything!

have you checked your timing lately?

When I contacted Thorley, they said that they have had many customers with AT's have success installing without modification. Perhaps that is why they don't seem to have any interest in producing a kit for us AT folks. Note: they did NOT say "Yes, they will fit". They just said that there was a lot of success.

you are correct

I have a full size 31 on my carrier and have no problems. Even if it did interfere, it's as simple as a tug on the carrier handle. I typically pull the carrier away to give be easier access to throwing things in the window.

I think the intent was to read "only tow using the hook and, by the way, it's on the passenger side" not "only tow using a hook that's on the passenger side, never tow from the drivers side". Stock setup had a tow hook on the passenger side. I removed mine to attach the grill guard. I tow from wherever I want.

here's one for sale

nice touch.

hey... this is a family show.