k9sar

I've never heard of a timing belt causing noise since it is a toothed belt. Typically, you get squeal with a V-belt when it gets old and glazed (shiney). Cheap to throw on a new set of v-belts and rule that out.

ok... I'm sure everyone else wants to know but are probably afraid to ask.... Did you get any pictures? The other box under the drivers seat is probably your R-ABS (rear wheel anti-lock brake system) control unit. It should have something like 17 wires running to the connector. Sorry about the status of your Nissan Submarine. Take your time to get everything drained before you try to compress tadpoles. Spark plug removal should do that for you (as long as you can get her to crank). A little residial water in the cylinders is ok. They don't have to be bone dry but expect a steam cloud when you fire it up. Check other thereads for help with a new ECU. I think someone else in here drowned theirs too.

IT certainly wouldn't hurt to do it. Chances are that around 100k, some other things may be going also... thermostat, cam seals, water pump, etc. If you're not a fan of pulling the front of your engine apart, I'd suggest doing them all at once, regardless of leakage etc. I needed a new water pump at around 95k so I did the belts too. The timing belt looked fine but I figured... while I'm in there...

It should fit easily. Just be careful not to ruin your headliner with the hoist arm as you shove it in the hatch.

Hey dnodog... do you know much about Cushings Disease? My local vet thinks my 9-year old lab MAY have it due to a lack of urine concentration. Her drinking is normal and she does not need to go out any more frequently than she did before. She doesn't have any other symptoms that I can tell that aren't simply a result of being 9 (a little slow getting up, a little achey after playing hard with her sister, stuff like that). Is my vet out of her mind or should I go ahead with the low-dose dex test and rule it out? It'd be another $150 out of my pocket that I could certainly use elsewhere. Everytime I take my younger dog to her cardiologist, is sets me back double that.

just 'stirrin the pot', so to speak. The board has been a bit quiet lately. Heck, it's not like I'm taking open shots at all those texas lowlifes out there. That's be like huntin' a hamster with a 12-gauge.

Reach for the sky!!!

I guess 88's still :asleep: Oh well... another wasted shot across the bow.

probably the previous owner got tired of replacing it and frellin' around with ones that didn't work.

with my luck, I'd be out reading the note and someone would jump in my pathy and take off.

Ya gotta remember that everytime you take your pathy into a place like that, you are trusting it to a bunch of low-life grubbies making min wage who don't give a crap about your vehicle. These are probably guys who couldn't get hired at the local McDonalds because they couldn't be trained to flip a burger. Oh well... it's not like they work for the cable company or anything. That'd really be scraping the bottom of the barrel.

just a minor difference.

that's just wrong.

check out this thread... it contains some info of things to look for before tearing out the entire tranny for a rebuild/replacement. Link

He's not real handy. My guess is he bought it just to kill the snake.

My brother in San Diego heard a strange hissing noise coming from under his car. Turns out it was a simple problem to resolve...

important point here... many people think it's a no-brainer but I certainly wouldn't want to be responsible for someone cooking themselves. leave the cap off while you run the engine to temp. If you have it on and then try to open it hot, you could get seriously injured. My wife's uncle apparently had no brain and has the scarring to prove it.

You may have a bad coil wire. If the resistance is too high or you have a bad connection at the distributer, getting the thing wet will allow the thing to spark to the nearest ground rather than to the distributer. Have someone try to start it while you stick your head under the hood. IF it's shorting to the block, you'll probably hear a noticeable ticking as it arcs. IF you do it at night, you may even be able to see it. You could also remove the coil wire from the dist and put the end near the block. Crank it over to see if you are getting spark at the distributer end of the wire.

my point was that you are not going to 'cook' anything if your thermo is stuck OPEN. Stuck OPEN = may not reach op temp quickly or at all (no big deal) Stuck CLOSED = Fry your engine

an open thermo only has an effect when first starting or running in the winter. The function is to get the block up to temp soon after you start so it runs most efficiently and allows you to get some heat in the truck on those cold mornings. When it hits a certain temp, the thermo opens, allowing the temp to stabalize with cooling through the rad. IF you have a bad thermo, you can simply throw it away and don't put one back in (you'll need a gasket for the housing, though). Your engine will get no hotter than normal unless your thermo is stuck in the closed position and does not allow flow through the rad.

true... true and true. I'm just lazy and have not had a problem yet. The only time I actually had to hit TDC was a buddy who broke his belt and got everything out-of-whack. Had to rely on the marks at that point. :-)

When I did mine, I ignored TDC (which is where those little marks line up on the housing) and simply marked the pulley's and timing belt with a dot of white-out or similar stuff. You can even replace the timing belt this way as long as you transfer the marks from the old belt to the new before you align it and slip it on. As long as you are careful, you should be ok.

I have always heard that ceramic pads are better for dust reduction and heat dissapation (sp?) but the new rotors will help that. ACDelco sells a set for about 80 - 90 dollars. Not a fan of ACDelco products but I don't know who else makes them since I stick with the el-cheapos.

what about a repair... check these guys out Might be worth a call

nice rotors... where'd ya get them? As for pads, I throw on the local cheap junk at about $20 a pop (I think they're Raybestos) but I replace them every couple years.