k9sar

I have a similar fuel smell when I first get in start it when it's cold out. It has since gone away with warmer weather. I suspected it was a fuel line that wasn't sealing perfectly when the hose was frellin' cold but I could never isolate the source of the smell. It lasted for about 3 months while cold and the truck never burst into flames or anything like that. If you discover your problem, please post the results so that others (like myself) may benefit from it.

I recently won an auction for a replacement remote for my 95 pathy. The auction promised to include programming instructions (which are, by the way, contained in the service manual anyway). I received the remote yesterday along with the programming instructions. It read (in Reader's Digest condensed version): After several ambiguous steps, it ends as follows: :D

the lifters in the VG30E that you have are hydraulic and it is normal for them to tick until they get the oil pressure up and close the gap between the cam and the rocker arms. First thing to do, probably, is to have someone else start the engine and see if the noise is from one or both heads. If it's only 1, it's probably manifold related. There are a couple ways to check for a manifold leak too. You can visually inspect the studs (the bolts will be loose or missing if the stud is snapped off). My favorite is to listen around the manifold using some tubing and see if you can pinpoint the noise. Good luck.

I'm amazed that they even knew how to turn on a computer.

Dang.. that don't look too good Repack. Definately something to take care of before it rots out totally. I did a similar floor patch on an old galaxy 300. We killed the rust with Naval Jelly, smeared it with roofing cement (great tar content) then pop-rivited sheet aluminum over for support. Underneath, we applied some thick undercoat to keep the water out. If it's under the seat, it doesn't have to be pretty.... kinda like a cheap date

I definately agree.

I also have a 95 SE w/ offroad pkg and I have not noticed any problems with the rear suspension (except when I loaded 60 or so concrete blocks in it). I'm curious about the 'cracks' as well. I'll look under my seats and see what looks normal.

excessive positive camber. An alignment should fix it.

with respect to aftermarket replacement, the Pathfinder and pickup (2 or 4wd) have the same upper and lower control arms. I do not know about OEM but I would guess it's the same answer.

I have BFG AT/KOs and they are fine. There are a lot of more aggressive tires out there but there are a lot of boring radials too. I got them because they had a respectable tread (which I have been putting to the test with all the rain we have had around here lately) and they certainly have the capability to sling a roostertail of mud. I never worry about the teadwear warrenty since I usually tear the sidewall out or similar before they wear out on their own. The reason I chose them over some of the other offroad tires???? simple. I needed a set of 4 and they were only about $100 each installed.

Outside shoulder wear on a single tire usually indicates an excessive positive camber problem. Underlying causes may include a broken or sagging spring (measure ride height on both sides), a bent strut or spindle, a mislocated strut tower or engine cradle, a collapsed control arm bushing or a bent control arm. As for the shake... if balancing and alignment doesn't help, check your motor mounts and possibly tranny mounts. A broken motor mount will cause this and the shakes will be most predominant during accelleration (but not necessarily from start). I had a previous car with a broken mount and it was fine until about 45mph when it began to shake. If I took my foot off the gas, it would settle down but come right back as I accellerated. Good luck and don't forget to post when you find the solution.

perhaps she's just thirsty. Is your radiator level low? I never trusted that the exchange to/from my resevoir actually worked properly. My level stays the same but due to a small leak at my water pump, I lose some fluid from the system. Not sure what to suggest here except try to isolate the resevoir from the radiator and see if it's a leak in your system or in the actual resevoir tank.

probably the only part you haven't tried replacing yet.

I asked them via email at the same time I asked if they would really fit. They didn't offer mfg info but didn't seem to intentionally withold it either. If I knew who made them, I'd contact them directly for the fit question. I couldn't care less who I got them from as long as the price was reasonable. I guess I'll use the direct approach and give them a phone call tomorrow.

I have been informed by AC that my 95 Pathfinder with automatic transmission can be fit with a set of headers that they sell which are listed as Triple Nickle Plated Headers for 90-95 Pathfinder with Manual trans. Of course, these are the most expensive ones they list for the 90-95 pathfinders. Interestingly enough, they list regular and ceramic coated headers for my pathy with Auto Trans (part nums PPMH1197 and PPMH1197C). Does anyone know if they make these themselves? If not, who the mfg is? Has anyone had any experience putting any of these on a pathy with an auto? I'm fishing here... gotta get rid of my exhaust manifolds!

Have you checked your ECU code for the reason the engine light came on? Even though it goes off, I believe it retains the last code that it detected. I had a fuel injector leak that would cause my engine light to come on for awhile. It wouldn't affect performance though, so I doubt that is your problem.

I use FRAM because I was able to buy in bulk and reduce the cost.

The hissing is definately a radio problem. To fix it, turn that little black knob on your stereo system clockwise until the noise goes away. Note: this aslo works on tire-hum, singing u-joints, nagging wives and girlfriends, etc

Steve... you're starting to sound like a broken record

The cam seals etc are recommended simply because you're gonna be in there anyway. It's a PITA to get at them so it's a good idea to do preventive maintenance on the cheap parts and reduce the labor involved if, for some reason, they decide to fail.

I picked up a pair of rotors from a local Carquest dealer for $35 each. There were ones available from NAPA for $26 but I figure they would warp the first time you really got them hot. carpartsplace.com has Brembo rotors for $50 or so with free shipping.

yea. With the auto-locking front hubs, the rotor just slips over them and bolts on. Picture of front rotors for 90-95 4WD pathy

... and don't forget to top off your blinker fluid, right 88?

I wish someone would fab-up a bunch of crossover pipes for our year w/ AT. I'm not equipped for any custom exhaust work and I'm frellin' tired of these manifolds.

I've found that shops are notorious for spinning up their air pressure to get lug nuts off and use the same forse to put them back on. I've had to use a 4 foot pipe on my lug wrench to get them off one time. Whenever I take my vehicles in for inspection, I make sure to tell them to knock the pressure down and torque the nuts they way they should be. When they are sone, I grab my wrench and loosen one lug. If it's too tight, I make them redo all of them. It is typically accompanied by a meeting with the shop manager an a story about how my wife wouldn't be able to get them off if she ever got a flat.