Slick

*blows pepsi out her nose* hahahaha watch out for them elbows!

dave said JB weld DO make a sealer suitable for gas tanks

i didn't think you;d post it!!! hahahaha and hey everyone! guess who was on the phone when that pic was taken? sly BTW: nice shiner..... damn. least yer ok besides that. did you guys get all the bolts out?

*sighs* *grunts* read...... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7681

just a dash light dimmer switch/dial.. if they can't find it then you need to find another parts store.....

as red said, get under there n clean it good then warm her up and watch for leaks. there are many places they can leak from... such as valve covers, cam seals, rear main seal, oil pan, omg. i could go on forever..... anyhoo. clean and inspect. my dash light dimmer switch sometimes flickers nowadays, but if i turn it allt he way up then play with it a bit it stays bright and no flickering. check there is a good connection in the wires behind the dimmer switch.

i would have the frame checked, and also the rear axle assembly for any damage, especially if the accident took out the wheel, it must've got a good hit, which, in turn could have damaged the axle somewhere. get the frame checked, if it's bent at all, it will be horrible to drive, and if it's for your daughter, you want her safe as possible i imagine. :contract:

nice work! -bounce- :cool2:

:o slight malfunction there? dang.

sssh seems like an awful lot of oil there too...... but yeah, as above, because yer gunna ahve to pull the t belt anyway to change the H2o pump. and once coolant gets on yer belts..well. over time they become brittle and break.. and that sux. FYI: don't let anyone tell you different..... ONLY run a 170 degree t stat. i use prestone t stats... work good.

i have used a supersoaker.. yes.. they work WELL. i have also had a big bottle of tap water in my truck for such occasions... and before the beloved mud has a chance to dry solid like an adobe house.. throw yer water over the rad to wash 'er off. if you put your winter rad protector thingie on there dontcha think she'll overheat BEFORE she even hits the mud? if all else fails.. find a nice clean river to go wash off in....... sly

i've been running K & N's for years and love them. try adjusting your throttle cable. my pathy revs at 1200 when cold. but after 5 mins she settles down. if the revs hang up for a moment even after shifting then i would look more closely at throttle adjustment fer sure

i am not sure about my auto yet (on 33's) as i still haven't got my plates and insurance on it yet. but my 5 speed (92) in 5th at 65mph is at 2800rpm. these are high rom motors.. usual shift point is between 2800-3000rpm on manuals.

the only difference is there is no red wire like on the u haul wiring. also, the wiring i install on pathys from u haul have the relay box. what they mean by green: right turn and stop is that that wire controls your turn signal on the RHS but the driver side is the "main" side, where left turn,stop and driving lights are wired. the green wire to the pass side is purely for the turn signal. the turn signals and brake lights are NOT run off the same wire. in any size shape or form on ANY vehicle. wire it as follows and see how it goes.. forget the green says "stop" and wire it as follows: Theirs: on truck: yellow (brake) gray & yellow wire (driver side) green (right turn) gray & red (pass side) brown (tail/driving) pink & vlue (driver side) white ~ ground. self explanatory. the harness you have is the same as our harness 13488 which is a basic harness with no relay box.... which you should use but try my method and see how it goes. But that type of harness can't be run on certain vehicles.. pathys included. they need the relay box. also. that harness may not even work...... because if it looks like our 13488. then it won't work.. reason being is i tried to tap into the main harness on the driver side for the pass turn signal, and it didn't work. had to run the wire across to the pass side. you may need another harness. am i making sense? i think not. i tested n tried all the wires that ran to the pass side all the way under the back of the pathy.... there are so many relay boxes under there that i got all the way to the pass side before i got a RH turn signal.

ty ty. i try. and ya know what.. i put a htich n wiring on a friends pathy 2 days ago.. and i came straight to my write up to get the wire colors to save time.. saved me 15 mins of prodding wires. and makes for a much cleaner job.

sssh hmm.. dave did some investigating for me.. and this is the only truck he found running anything jim connor...... scrll down to the specs on the truck http://4wheeldrive.about.com/library/uc/uccamundson.htm this could be the same dude? http://www.signonsandiego.com/uniontrib/20...21carlede1.html :sniff: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=1...&postid=1296638

this could be the start of a new fad. now we know it can be done sly steevO! are you listening!????

hello and welcome first off.. a pathy is an SUV. therefore. don't drive it like the protoge. higher CoG and handling is completely different. secondly, only use 4wd in cases such as snow, ice, sand, loose gravel when traction is needed to get where you have to go. cornering at full lock is pretty hard to do..... as stated above.. this is not a car.. you should learn to drive your pathy without 4wd where it i safe to do so so you can get the feel of how she reacts..... use 4wd only as necessary. wet leaves? those are the most fun to drive on..... in 2wd. lay ff the tall skinny and you will find you have a great vehicle. were you shifting on the fly into 4wd? that will cause your nasty grinding noise. as stated. not a race car.

sssh hmm.. very interesting. and i wouldn't say it's a crap set up if he was a factory nissan off road racer sly investigation time! -bounce- :type: -study-

:bow: amen. i use it every other fill up :bow:

i did this little write up....... may help ya a bit http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=10354

i got a brand new pair of headlights.. and have had condensation in the pass side headlight ever since... i have hunted high and low, moved stuff and STILL i get condensation it is clear aws a bell a year on.. but always damp inside except when using headlights. i just live with it now. i think it has something to do with the coolant bottle.... but who knows. if it's poopie brown inside... then it may be time for a new one. a pair of headlights is $80-$90 usd on ebay. try some members here.. i've seen lots of lights for sale... i sold 1 for $20. the other thing you can do is pop the cover n clean it out good and seal the sucker back up.. bulbs are $10 for em.

i have had the same issue..... my injectors are fine and truck ran good.... when i pulled the motor i changed the HP fuel lines each end of the FI rail tho. i think i got that code after i pulled the motor and i adjusted the throttel cable and wala.. no more issue. every pathy is different. mine is a bitch. yours may be nicer to you.

:sniff: sorry to hear you're parting with your baby...... but you have your reasons. you will be back in a 4x in no time. until then, you have your memories and NPORA to come hang out n let us know what's going on with you and yours.

ooh yeah. i LOVE being next to the walls.. sounds so wicked good.. mmm.... oh. sorry. yeah. if the pipe is pointing at the wall. yer gunna hear it .... here's how i have mine set up