vengeful

Yup...that big rubber hose that connects between the master cylinder and the intake manifold is the brake booster hose.

I've never had a problem with it mucking up my fuel filter. The effectiveness of the SeaFoam in the gas tank is to clean out the fuel lines and the injectors. It doesn't do anything for the valves running it through the fuel system. To clean out the valves, you have to run it through the brake booster hose which will suck it straight into the intake. Your engine will run like crap for a few minutes, and you have to hold the RPMs above 2,000 for a while until the smoke subsides, and then it runs fine. Don't forget to reattach the brake booster. Another way to run it is to put it in your crank case, directly into the oil. Helps to keep the seals healthy and what not. Especially good to do if you've gone over on an oil change.

That's another great word....

City streets around here have 45-50mph speed limits. Speed limit on the highways here is 75. Just because you drive like a 90-year-old blind man, doesn't mean everyone else has to Luker.

IIRC, you have to have VDC on for the ALBS to work....

A locker with a steel diff is fine, but with an aluminum casing, you're just asking for trouble......

1200 cfm isn't going to cool your engine. You need a lot more than that. You need at least 2000+ CFM.

Big thing on the drivers side, bottom of the engine at the back.

Well duh it was a Saturday, like I have time to type something like that up during the week?!

Dude....get your eyes checked ya old fogey!

Oh, so it won't start? Does tapping on the starter help while you're experiencing this?

Something similar happens to mine, which is caused by the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) sticking and not opening the throttle body. I'll start the truck, and it'll promptly die (however, there is no miss). Seafoam is an engine cleaner fluid that you can get at any auto parts store like AutoZone or the like. It cleans all the gunk and goo and crud that has built up in your engine over time.

Hmm....your idle is a little low but still in the acceptable range....that rules out IAC valve.... It sounds to me like it's more of an air or fuel delivery problem than an ignition related problem. Check the air filter - if dirty, replace. Check and clean the throttle body - use a throttle body cleaner and an old toothbrush, don't worry, the gunk that falls into your intake manifold will just burn up. If those don't help, do a Seafoam treatment. Pour a full can into your gas tank next time you fill up from empty. Run 1/3 of a can through your brake booster line into your intake manifold and reattach the booster line, then hold the engine at appx 2000-2500rpm until the smoke stops. Consult the instructions on the can for more info. That should clear out any buildup in your engine. If none of that helps, make sure the fuel pump is priming the engine properly at start up. After the car has been sitting for a couple hours or so, sit under it by the fuel tank, and have a helper turn the key to the On position, but not start the engine. You should hear the pump kick on and pump fuel to the engine before it starts. There are a couple other ways to play around with this....before you start your vehicle, hold the key in the On position for a few seconds, see if it starts properly. Then, after it has sat for a while without running, go and immediatly turn the key to start without pausing at On. Does it miss and die?

I got my 3 Quest alternators for $75 total. They were all out of wrecks from a junkyard and each of them had less than 20,000 miles (basically new!). These were the VG33 125A version. This is slightly less than bolt on, but I modified all three alternators so I could swap them quickly. No, I'm not willing to part with my spares.

Steve-o....I think Calmini has the backspacing reversed, it wouldn't be the first time they screwed something up. With backspacing, less is more - meaning that the less backspacing a wheel has, the more it will stick out from the hubs. You should be able to fit 32s on a 4.5" BS wheel with the 3" lift with very little issue.

Couple of questions for you to try to narrow down the possibilities here.... - How many miles are on it? - Has the fuel filter ever been changed to your knowledge? - At what RPM does your engine idle at when it is in gear with your foot on the brake?

The diameter of the coil on the R50 is larger than that on the WD. The same springs wont work, but I wouldn't be surprised if there are coils on another vehicle that match the dimensions of the R50.

Is that the word of the day Dave?

Well, the one I linked is supposed to go on the front with a front receiver.....there are other's available that fold down so you can open the hatch.

The Pathfinder? Hah....not gonna happen any time soon. The WDs don't have the nostalgia and following the old FJs have. Nissan has moved the Pathfinder to an Upscale market. The Xterra is what has replaced the WD Pathys.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hidden-Hitc...sspagenameZWD1V How about something like that for the time being? Or even permanent if you don't do a lot of wheeling and need the departure angle. Edit: This is not the exact one I was thinking of because this one doesn't fold down. I see them on eBay from time to time.

Since you're learning to weld....why not just weld up a new rear bumper (steel), with a receiver and tire carrier? Then you could weld up a set of sliders, too...

Do not use a Hi-Lift unless you have a Hitch and Sliders. There is no suitable jacking point to use one on an R50. As far as roof mounting, I didn't really notice a difference in Gas mileage, but then again, the big old rack is still up there. I did notice a very very drastic change in CG and it made the truck feel way tippy. Then again, I am running 32s on steel wheels which weigh close to 100lbs each.

Sorry Martin...I had to.

That is something you never say to an engineer....EVER.