vengeful

I'll place my bets on EVAP or O2 Sensor.

I'm at a total loss here....fuel pump maybe? Might be time to enlist the help of a mechanic.

You of all people should know this Mz....Nissan stopped using TBI in everything in 1989.

Holy schneikies!!.... This guy is going to get royally effed!

Have some SHAME man!!

Hmm....Nissan must have used a) a different trim piece on the Canadian pathies or done something stupid on the newer R50s....

Happy Birthday Bud! Don't let the demon-b1tch spoil it for ya!

Maybe they use a different kind of paint in Canada that is more prone to trapping water?

We have another member, Pezzy, who lives just East of Toronto who has a 99.5 (same as the 2000), and I didn't notice any rust on her truck when I last saw it. I have lived until this past March in Rochester, NY, so the weather and road conditions are very similar to Southern Ontario, and I have virtually no rust on my truck, with the exception of some surface rust on the untreated surfaces on the undercarriage. R50/WD21 are the model/chassis designations for the different Pathfinders (this can all be found elsewhere on the forums, but I've got a minute...) R50 are the Pathfinders with Model Years 1996-2004. WD21 are the model year 1987-1995.

So is mine....and I lived in Salt City, USA.

Not really, even on the body they aren't as prone to rust as the WDs. I guess Nissan figured out how to build a proper vehicle...

Where are you located? The R50s aren't typically as prone to rusting as the WD21s.

Denton, Please don't cross post.

There's a ton of information already on the forums regarding body lifts. Check out the Pinned Topics in the Tech Section at the top of the Garage as well as the How-To Section first.... Then a quick search should bring up a ton of stuff.

At $750 you're looking at a REALLY CRAPPY paint job. It'll come out either oversprayed, orange peeled, or any other number of imperfections, and probably not clearcoated. To get a top-quality, professional, factory type paint job, you're looking at $3,000+. A friend of mine had his YJ painted a few years ago, prepped, primer, paint, and clear, and although it was a very very very nice paint job, it cost him $4400. On an 88 Wrangler that probably isn't worth $2500.

To ensure you get the right parts, email the seller and ask for the manufacturer part number and cross-reference that to the manufacturer website or with the manufacturer representative on the phone. Then, double check when you recieve the item that the part number is indeed the same as you were originally given.

That is a file picture. You can't go by that picture to see exactly what that kit includes. Judging by the picture though, there are 4 blocks, and 4 pucks, for a total of 8 lift points.

Not to say "I Told You So," but did you do any research on the people who would be working on your truck before you handed it over to them? I would be extremely wary of a guy who just gives me a cell phone number as his only contact method. Somehow, I'm not surprised at all....that friggin sucks though and I hope you get it all taken care of. If I was still in NY, I'd make a trip up there (been meaning to visit my family in Montreal anyways)....and....well.....yea.

The 2 simply means it's the second (updated) release of the same product. I must reiterate that if you live in a dusty area, or go off-road frequently, DO NOT get a cone or oiled type filter like the K&N.

It is a possibility. You've got the new 99, right? I'll see if I can find the procedure for testing the CPS and if I can find it, I'll post it.

If you didn't disconnect the battery before doing this, chances are you simply blew the fuse.

Well...in order for an engine to run, it needs three things....air, fuel and spark. If it's not getting the proper amount of any of those, it wont run. As far as checking air, look for vaccuum leaks, damage to the throttle body or IACV, bad MAF, etc. As far as checking for fuel, look at the fuel pressure (done), lines (done), filter (done) and injectors to make sure they're not clogged or malfunctioning in one way or the other Checking for spark - cap & rotor (done), spark plugs, wires, ignition module. Also, check your timing, it may be off

Hmm.... I would be inclined to say Fuel Pump, FPR, or maybe Ignition? Do you have spark on all your cylinders? How does your cap & rotor look?

My Silverstars have lasted me almost 18 months, and show no signs of dimming or anything....

I had alignment issues before. Since buying the lifetime alignment from Firestone, that's all fixed. Every time I would go wheeling, it would knock it out of spec and that would cause uneven wear on the tires. I didn't feel like spending $80 on an alignment every time I went wheeling, and eventually broke down and spent the $140 on the Lifetime deal....Couldn't be happier. Also, 45,000 on mud tires is pretty impressive. Most mud-terrain type tires I hear of only last 25,000 or so.