BoneZ

Thanks for the great reply these are now more appealing then before I did not realize you were going to get custom width JJ's and thought we would have to cut off the mounts and weld on new ones. Making it a bolt in part will make it more appealing to the masses. Sounds like you are a great product provider and do your research well before diving in, Hope you get pricing up soon And look forward to seeing the finished product. And have you thought about making a upper set as well?

I would be interested in this product although only if they were at a good price. As there is only 1 part that is not a off the shelf part witch is the tubing being cut to length and taped in a reverse direction in each side ( assuming you are going to make them adjustable in length without removal from the vehicle and use a lh/rh john joint on each side.). don't get me wrong I do not expect them to be dirt cheep as I know the johnny joints for 2 links retail is around 160 dollars. I assume you can get a better deal buying in bulk. then you still need to make the center tube. Cant wait to hear the price you can make them 4. Can you tell me i am right or not on my assumption above.

in the Garage section go to 'How To' and find 'reindexing your torsion bars'. that should give you all the info you need.

I run those bighorns on my dodge, You will be very pleased with those tire, I use them on trails, rock, mud, sand, snow and have had no problems walking through stuff. I split a sidewall on one but that was my fault 2 low tire pressure and big drop off a rock onto the sidewall. All of the bighorns seem a little over sized though as mine say they are 305-70r17 witch should be about 33.5 but you can put them next to a set of 35" bfg tires and they are about 1/4" taller then the BFG's. and NZpathy I have talked to allot of people about those tire sizes and the general rule around here seams to be 3" suspension and 3" body lift and minor trimming. Some people with less lift fit them but have allot of play time with cutoff wheels and sawzaws on the fenders.

That body lift should have all you need except you need 1 longer hose for the radiator can cut the other, or a radiator relocation bracket. You will also need to eather pull your shifter boot and cut some material from behind your 4x4 shifter, or get the 4x4 shifter out of a similar year hardbody truck. I would also suggest some metal to make good bumper mounts with the ones in the kit are not that good.

Just thought I would let you know that the shimmy was coming from one end of my centerlink. The hole that goes through had became egg shaped and was allowing it all to shift around while driving. when the pathfinder was parked you could not feel any movement in it, it was found because i started taking all of the steering apart to find the problem. This is not recommended but since I had no money at the time i found the problem I drought it to a friend that runs a fab shop he welded the area and re machined and drilled it for me 4 free. After putting the front end back together and doing a driveway alignment the pathfinder drives straight with no shimmy. Before anyone starts going off on thats not a safe fix, I am going to replace it on payday and keep this one as a spare part for on the trails. be safe and I hope this helps some others with the same problem.

On the metric tire size thing make sure to consider the rim size, On metric tires say you have a 305-70 r15 and a 305-70 r17. the 305-70-r15 will be about a 33" tire, while the 305-70 r17 will be about a 34" tire. Just want to put this out there to try to clarify the confusion.

Yes it sounds like we have the same problem I will look through those things this weekend thanks for some more ideas. If anyone else has any suggestions please let me know.

The shimmy I am getting in my steering wheel is not noticeable except in the steering wheel, Passengers can not feel the shimmy at all, The pathfinder still drives straight, but the steering wheel shimmy's almost 1/2" each way as you drive, It seems to have a little less shimmy when you are turning over about 45 degrees. I was hoping someone can help point me in the right direction. At first I thought ball joints, tre's or wheel bearings but can not find any play in them. before you say use the search function I tried and found several post but I could not find one about the steering wheel shimmying and the vehicle still tracking straight. If anyone knows of a post describing a problem like this please post a link. Thanks for your time everyone.

Thanks for the quick reply guy's. guess this is what I will do. On another note, what axles are about the right size for a SAS in these pathfinders besides a waggy axle just want to know what I should be watching for a good deal on. Or can someone post a link to a post with this info on it.

I was going to do a 3+3 and 33" tires but once i really got into looking at the suspension and steering assembly, I have changed my mind on that, I will install a 3"bl and try to run 32" tires for now want to know how much trimming will be needed, Then hopefully I will be doing a SAS next winter. I will not have time and money to do it this winter after buying rig fixing broke parts and installing locker, body lift, a few steering upgrades, so it will have to wait tell next winter. Any info on how much trimming would be nice pics of rigs with 3"bl and 32's would be even better.

work for a GM OEM yes the ls1, lq4, ly6, lsa, and lst, (all versions of 6.0-6.2l) all run 15-20 degrees hotter then the older engines like the 5.7(350) 4.3(262) and such.

Thanks allot Simon That is right what I was looking for.

Can anyone show me a picture of how the grassroots centerlink is any different then the stock center link in the pics on grassroots they look just like the stock can see no difference. If anyone can post a pic of it it would be a great help, Thanks for your time.

No, There is a bar with a balljoint type thing at 1 end that holds to the axle or lower contol arm mattering on make.

I Was thinking about making one out of a stock center link and I know they built it out of one, I am a decent welder and fabricator. That is why I was looking at pictures I should have phrased that better, I just want to see how others have addressed the design flaws.

I have been looking at after market centerlinks like the L&P and the one they sale at grassroots, I wanted to know if anyone has a picture of how these are different then the stock ones, All of the pictures of them I can find online they look like the same thing as stock. If anyone has some pictures of these please post a few.

When When I bought my pathfinder for 800 dollars it had a similar problem. The previous owner replaced allot of stuff trying to fix it with no luck so I got IT at a very good price. When I went through the truck I found that the passenger side compression rod was bent right where it goes through the cross member area.(not sure its really a cross member it goes through but you can see where it mounts to). It was bent right in the center of that part so it was really hard to see I noticed by the threaded area sticking out the back not being even with the shaft towards the front. After replacing this compression rod (10 dollars at the local u-pull it) The pathfinder rides great. You might want to see if yours are bent or broke anywhere. On my pathfinder you started to feel it at about 45mph but it did not become intense in tell around 60mph.I was not hearing the clunking noise you describe from the rear of the vehicle though.

Oh I thought L&P was still around because I was on there web sight at L&P but if they no longer exist I will look Into HooHaa. Do you have a link for there Products.

Will the L&P steering setup hold up to 33's and real offroading or am I better off custom fabbing up a setup, Was looking into the steering stuff and there system looks allot stronger then stock, I just dont know if it will hold up to 33" tires and real offroading.

I need to keep it street able enough to drive it to the trails so Im probably not going to do that, If I cant make a steering setup work that well I will go to hydrolic steering. I would prefer not to do this because of the cost and how cops seem to notice it and herase you about it even though there is no law against it here in oregon. I am in the process of looking for a pathy in a junkyard to pull all of the steering stuff out of to use for a guide to make a new setup.

Thanks for the reply Last build sheet I saw on your pathy was listed at 33-12.5, But if you can fiit them now thats good then I should be able to run the Iroks with the 3+3 And some triming, What offset are you running on your rims. Was there any other mods That need to be done to fit these tires. I know I will need to upgrade the steering parts but I plan to custom Fab up some beefy rods and brackets for that. Any insight on this would be helpful as I plane To do allot of the mods to this vehicle all at 1 time.

88's truck is a 2 door not a 4 door and he is running 12.5 wide, and the iroks smallest size is the 33-13. I will probably just end up running a different tire to be thinner. It Is just the IROKS are the best offroad tire I have ever seen. They put the regular swampers to shame witch stomp on most the competitors with ease offroad.

I want to know if anyone can tell me what I have to do to fit 33-13 tires they would be on 17" rims, going on a 91 4 door pathfinder. The tires i want to run are the IROKs. Also what back spacing would be needed. Can I fit them with a 3"sl and a 3"bl and some trimming or would I have to do more. If anyone can let me know it would be very helpful I am getting ready to build this rig for trail runs. I normally wheel my 2001 dodge ram but It is to big to fit in some of the trails out here in Oregon, not that I cant get it in there but they do not allow rigs over a certain width in them. So I thought a pathfinder would be a nice trail rig, Hope someone can help answer this for me thanks.