Kingman

The non u-pull-it yards around here want on average $25 per spring, the u-pull-it yards want about $20. Is $40 for only the spring or with the strut attached? And $40 for a stupid metal bar is ridiculous. Sounds like that place is a rip off...

Here y'are. Just searching "VG33" on z31performance.com, only a handful of builds and searching topic titles only, not entire threads. There are more on that site not linked to VG33, and more elsewhere. http://z31performanc...055&hilit=+vg33 http://z31performanc...4932&hilit=vg33 http://z31performanc...7535&hilit=vg33 http://z31performanc...8391&hilit=vg33 http://z31performanc...5315&hilit=vg33 http://z31performanc...3631&hilit=vg33 http://z31performanc...2285&hilit=vg33 http://z31performanc...7666&hilit=vg33 http://z31performanc...5417&hilit=vg33 http://z31performanc...2471&hilit=vg33 http://z31performanc...2599&hilit=vg33 I don't want coil overs and Z32TT brakes are plenty for this guy. Yep, the one that enabled me to do awesomely fun donuts and whatnot. It's a great diff and can handle a lot of power. Sounds great for a highish-horsepower build. Now take a VG33, put a big fuggin turbo on it, crank the boost to 35PSI and make 700WP. Yeehaw. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSgz7IPLNVM&feature=player_embedded You can take VGs to 8K stock, I've done it... It's pointless as without head work you stop making power at 5.5-6K. You're missing my point entirely. There is no reason, none, zip, zilch, nada, to keep a VG30 when there's a VG33 around that's bigger and already produces more power, plus has thicker cylinder walls for further boring... you can't even bore a VG30 to 3.3L. A 9:1 VG33 at 12PSI on a stock T3 will make more power than a 9:1 VG30 at 12PSI on a stock T3. A 9:1 VG33 at 20PSI on a GT35R will make more power than a 9:1 VG30 at 20PSI on a GT35R. I wouldn't be touching the internals of the engine that would be going in. I don't need to unless I feel like cracking 400WHP. Why start with a less powerful base when there's bigger out there? That's silly. Anything you can do to a VG30 you can do to a VG33, so you are only hampering yourself by sticking with an almost identical smaller engine. There is no replacement for displacement. Eventually I plan on building a VG34 and supercharging it for my Pathfinder. That's a while down the road though. You have your ideas, I have mine. But yeah, Pathfinders... Installed one of those storage cubbys that goes under the center stack. Took me forever to find a truck in the junkyard that had one. And I also cleaned out some more mold...

Go slower, duh!

Lol you're dumb, that is a totally ignorant comment. Definitely VG33 with VG30 cams and not the VG30, no two ways about it. It's NOT a truck engine only. It's a VG30 that's larger, has much thicker cylinder walls, and can handle almost the same amount of power. 12PSI won't phase a VG but it's the max for a stock T3 and fuel system. Do you have any idea how many VG33ET Z31s there are nowadays? A sheit load. A CLSD R200 from a Z31 is what goes in the rear, and if I were to build one I wouldn't care about how much it's going to cost.

M30, 5-speed, VG33ET, 12PSI intercooled, LSD rear end, Koni adjustables, Z32 TT brakes, oh yeah...

I don't know, never had the need to remove one or take one apart. It's held on by 4 bolts, then there's the steering shaft bolt and the pitman arm. Doesn't look too hard to me.

What probably happened was someone put a new pump on and didn't flush anything out, leaving all of the debris behind to ruin your steering box. I think VW power steering fluid is green...

Ahh, Xplod subs. I've had one of those 12" for many years and it's never let me down. After retiring it from my truck I hooked it up to my 520W home stereo and it's still kicking.

Did you blow the lines out with compressed air? Could be a blob of goo in there.

So you pissed someone off and they played a little trick on you? Some of the pumps are different in design. On Z31s you can remove the pump without taking off the lower timing belt cover and what not.

If this is an automatic: When you're putting the transmission in, make sure you use the new torque converter and do not bolt it to the flex plate then put the transmission in. That would be the easiest way to do it, but there's a seal on the front of the input shaft that if you mess up while installing you're going to hate yourself. The biggest bitch about the whole thing, I think, is getting the torque converter bolted to the flex plate after the transmission is mated to the engine. It's almost an entirely "by feel" process where you have to bend over the fender of the truck and get down in there . A small Philips screwdriver helps to align the bolt holes and then thread the bolts in. There's barely enough room to get your finger tips to the torque converter to spin it and it can test your patience in a hurry. Blow all of the transmission lines and cooler out with compressed air. Installing an aftermarket cooler at the same time wouldn't be a bad idea. The factory cooler in the radiator will be full of dirty contaminated fluid and you don't want that crap circulating back through the new transmission. The same reason why you don't use an old torque converter with a new transmission. If a manual, ignore my post entirely.

That looks good! for butchering that Wagoneer! At least it's going to a good cause I guess, I just love those damn things.

Hmmm... a pulley where the alternator was maybe with factory alternator tensioner attached to it. It's just an idea I've been kicking around.

It's pretty well stuck on if all of the bolts are out. Try spraying some PB Blaster on all of the contact points to break some of the gunk up, let it sit for a day or so and keep smacking on it. The pump on my '88 that was original was stuck on real good and took a lot of BFH to get it loose. After it was out I sanded all of the rust and dirt off the bracket, pump goes it and out like a dream. I haven't had a pump tensioner on my truck for at least a year now. I just yard it up until the belt is tight and tighten the through-bolt. It doesn't budge.

Yes, that again. Post-whore the sheit out of it. I've stopped 3 friends from using brake cleaner to clean stuff before welding since I read that article. I do a fair bit of grinding, had no idea the UV was strong enough to do any damage.

How difficult are the motor mounts to get to and replace? I need to do CV axles and mounts on a '94 Villager soon. That sucks about the pilot bushing man!

Do you use your air conditioning? If not you could remove the compressor and move the alternator up top. You'd have to custom fab a few things but it shouldn't be too bad. There's plenty of slack in the factory charging harness to allow it. I don't think the factory alternator/water pump belt would clear the timing belt at an upward angle so you could get a smaller belt for the water pump and use the air conditioning belt and tensioner to to run the alternator.

If you buy the poly bushings from 4x4parts.com there's no pressing at all. Burn the old rubber out (if you even need to) and cut the sleeve with a hacksaw, then take a chisel and hammer it out. Easy as pie.

Chrysler isn't the first with an 8-speed, Toyota beat them to it with one of their Lexus models last year or a year before I believe. That many gears is entirely ridiculous, 6 is plenty and does serve a purpose. There's quite a few vehicles out there that the performance version of ends up using an older 5-speed because the newer 6-speeds aren't strong enough to handle more power.

Poly V stuff usually doesn't glaze, but it might be worth it to take the pulleys off and sand them down or take a wire wheel to them.

Yep, no help. Holding the wheel doesn't do any good as the rear axle physically shifts under the rear of the truck.

If you're only getting 15MPG out of one then there's something seriously wrong, or driving it like a mad man all the time (cop). They get on average 21-24MPG when driven like a normal car. That was one of the best chassis Ford ever produced, just too bad it was so outdated that mainly mass fleet companies bought them. Good power, fuel economy, reliable, and didn't handle that bad for such a big car that's super comfortable.

I will say, the '87 3-speed Jatco L3N71Bs were about bomb proof. I tried and tried and tried to blow mine up, I thought it was failing at 250K but all it needed was a fluid change and a cooler. It was wrecked at 260K. I red line neutral-dropped that thing daily, probably overheated it a lot trying to get the tires to turn and burnout (guuuuttlessss), and slammed in to first to swing some corners. It would not give out and still shifted fine. On the other end of the spectrum, I was in a buddy's '91 Foxbody with an automatic one night when he revved up to a Honda next to him, let the revs fall to about 2,000RPM and put it in drive. Boom, done. Car no move. A cop came along and pushed the car to a parking lot with his cruiser.

1) fskc Wal-Mart 2) When you buy Pioneer's lower line stuff it's total absolute dog crap. Their mid-upper to Premier stuff is good, the economy stuff is garbage.

I can't stand muddy stereos with a bunch of booming bass but no clarity. Most obnoxious thing ever. I have Alpine Type-Rs up front and Kenwood something-or-others in the back powered by an older Crutchfield (PPI) 4 channel amp. For bass there's two Rockford Fosgate 10" subs running 500RMS.