Kingman

You're gonna lose power and torque because the banks won't scavenge and it'll sound like crap. If you want a bomb type muffler find some Purple Hornies... put one on my truck with headers and 2.5" exhaust, sounded WAY good.

Lol! Really man?

5 million, 2 hundred thousand, 6 hundred ninety nine.

Okay, well whether you believe it or not you're wrong and they are very good engines to boost. Too high of RPM and HP the oiling issue becomes pretty apparent, but like I said they hold 450HP stock. No engine is going to be good to boost with a ton of miles and poor maintenance. Durrrr dee durr. However a 100K engine with great maintenance? It'll last a long time. And actually yeah, there are Z31s out there with the factory VG30ET with over 300K miles on them. You really don't know what you're talking about Sal.

Rods are forged, crank is nodular iron, pistons are standard cast, head gaskets are about the best you can get. They are strong enough to support a proven 450HP as long as the TUNE is good and you keep up on it. Stock pistons will melt the ring lands if you detonate, or blow the head gasket, but if you have forged pistons and detonate constantly you'll spin bearings. 9:1 is prrriiiiiiiiime for turbo VGs. Want a real good kick in the pants? Boost a VG33. 17PSI on my bone stock 7.8:1 VG30ET.

WRONG.

WRONG.

Missing/rough running and camming (slight loping) are two different things. The cams are probably the euro spec Nismo cams the guy got for a good deal on Ebay. But yeah you're right, if the guy stuck retarded cams in it it won't idle well... especially with a bad CHTS.

Yep, in the driver's side cylinder head behind the rear timing belt cover. You can take the front cover off, bend the back cover out a little, break the connector off the sensor, and use a 19MM socket to get it out. If you have a crows foot that works too. For the new one screw it in with the connector with pliers as tight as you can without breaking it. Sometimes if you're lucky and have just the right wrench you can tighten it a little bit from the topside between the cover and intake manifold. Always buy a new sub harness as well, they get corroded and brittle causing more problems. Alkorahil on here might have one or http://www.courtesyparts.com.

That is not the correct part, that's a fuel temperature sensor used on Z cars and whatnot. Look for Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor. I would only use a Nissan sensor. Off brand ones are known to not work properly out of the box. That sensor is the lifeline to the engine next to the MAF. I've installed cheap ones that made my rig run like ass from the get-go.

It tells the ECU how much fuel to give the engine depending on the temperature and when it goes bad it floods the engine out entirely. Insanely common for this to happen, my '87 did it too. Put a new NISSAN!!! sensor and sub harness in it and you'll be good to go. If the white smoke smells like fuel it's unburned raw fuel. Or you have two issues, bad head gasket/intake manifold gasket and a bad CHTS but I'd start with the sensor and go from there.

There's your problem.

Same case as the Maxima alternators that why for the VG it's basically a direct swap with more amperage.

90-94 Maxima SOHC alternators are 90A. You'll need to swap the pulley over to your original v-belt from the poly-v, if they even sell you one with a pulley. Then make a little spacer if needed.

Have we verified that the ancient TPSs are the same as the OBDII VG33 stuff? I almost want to say that they simply use the potentiometer for everything...

Not stages of torque but there's a sequence to tightening the main girdle bolts. Kinda hard to explain so I'll just make a copy of the page... Top diagram. The rod caps you just tighten until it's sucked tight against the rod then torque, spin the crank to the next one and repeat.

240sx 71Cs tend to snap output shafts... if you can do it I'd swap 300ZX 71C internals into the 4x4 case. VGs are strong and literally BEG for boost. I have a bone stock '86 VG30ET running 17PSI and it's been lovin it for like 7 years now. They seriously need cams though, the power falls off at 5,500RPM. A good set of Schneiders or the like (the like way more expensive) will open it up to 7K.

Rods: 33-40 and mains 67-74

Ignition timing is controlled by the ECU on these using various sensors.

Have you replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor before? CHTS/CTS are notorious for causing misses/stumbles when cold but fine when warmed up on a crap ton of Nissans. They don't always throw codes either. Dirty MAF/corroded connections. Bad O2 sensor.

Yep should be.

Alright so. IF THE CRANK PULLEY IS INSTALLED CORRECTLY, you align the furthest left timing mark with the timing pointer on the lower timing belt cover and check if the NO.1 piston is at the top of it's travel. If not, spin it over again until it is. Then take the distributor gear and line the dimple up with the arrow on the shaft and slide it in. It will turn a bit as it engages the cam gear so don't worry. In it's final place the rotor should be pointing almost directly left if you're facing the front of the engine.

Outside or both if you'd like. Sound reverberates through sheet metal vibrating, so any time you stick something on there to stop that vibration road noise and rattling goes down.

The entire floor pan, roof, doors, and rear fender wells.

They tried that crap with me on my Datsun starter when it tested fine. I told them if they were really going to send me out of the store with a podunk ass starter that WILL leave me stranded they will never see me again and I will do my best to give their store the worst name possible. Changed their attitude pretty quick. Still haven't been back in there. Only reason why I even did was because it was a lifetime starter... been replaced about once every two years since 1991.