abomb1

I don't know if you'll be able to find an aftermarket source for the sending unit and filler tube (you must mean the part of the tube that the cap screws onto since the rest is rubber). If the tank really has been replaced you should be alright with that as long as there isn't any rust pieces in there already.

The lift won't require a steering stabilizer, but bigger tires do. Most people do the body lift to fit bigger tires, so they put a steering stabilizer on to keep the tires stable over bumps.

Found it now. I didn't realize it had that 90 degree boot already on it.

Then my kit must have been missing that end. :furious:

Yeah, they didn't tell me that when I bought them so I assumed they needed to be gapped like any other plug.

OK, just called Autozone to confirm the no gap on the +4's and that is correct. I was told they will not work if you try gapping them. I guess its back to the parts store for me. Anyone want to buy a +4 keychain? sly Thanks for the info Simon!

If this is true, then that's my problem. I guess I don't understand then why all spark plugs aren't pregapped. I thought the gap was vehicle specific, but the plugs are used on many vehicles. Who else here installed platinum +4's? The wires are tight, I checked them all 3 times before starting the engine. I found the easiest way to get them pushed down with those flexible MSD boots was to install on the spark plug before finishing the distributor end. I used the spark plug socket that came in with the Pathfinder and ran the plug wires through the middle of it. That would allow me to push down on the stiff part of the cap from a height I could actually get my hand into, and with a little dielectric grease, it popped right onto the plug. Then I bent the distribributor end and hooked it up.

Statikuz, did you have to buy a different end for the "C" wire?

Last night I put in my new Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, MSD Heli-coil wires, new distributer cap and rotor. I took it for a drive and it ran better than it ever has. I was pretty happy with the results. This morning I take off to go to work and about a mile down the road, the truck just started sputtering like it was missing on some cylinders. I was able to limp it back home to take the car, but now I'm pretty frustrated. Is it possible my plugs could have fouled already? I gapped them at .038. Also, it was running so smooth the night before and for the first mile on the way to work. I've read about others having problems with the platinum plugs not getting along with their engines, but have seen more positive results with platinum than negative. Does anybody have any suggestions on what could have happened? Other than pulling all of the plugs again, I have no idea where to start on this.

:idea:

That's the one I've been using too, but with the body lift, I am unable to get into 4lo because the tcase shifter hits the cup holder. I guess I could probably try to get the shifter lengthened though. Can you get into 4lo with that cupholder there? Since I don't use 4lo hardly at all I've just kept that cupholder in there.

Now can you come up with a great cup holder for a manual Pathy? I'm out of ideas.

Yep, its that simple! :

Linkin Park

There's nothing to worry about with the steering, you just slide the splines out a little on both ends of the shaft and re-tighten the set screws.

I don't know, I have no experience in this, but it seems possible. There's gotta be some kind of hole saw to put on a drill to make the hole bigger, and its gotta be cheaper than buying new rims.

Got mine from AC. No problems and was shipped pretty fast. I didn't find them anywhere else when I was looking. Only up to 92 model year at most places.

Drill the holes. :idea:

Here's my gas tank story: (Skip this paragraph if you want the abbreviated version) Started noticing a gas smell in the garage this winter, but never saw a leak on the floor. Finally started looking around on the vehicles and found a very tiny pinhole leak on the bottom of the tank, right below where the sending unit sits. After 3 different attempts at sealing the leak with a "gas tank repair kit" from a parts store, I decided to find a new tank. Bought the tank for $60 at a junk yard and put everything back together. Filled up with gas the next day, got home, and smelled even more gas. This time it turned out to be where the sending unit bolts to the top of the tank (sure wish I knew about that access door when I was working on this one!!) The sending unit was kind of corroded, so it wasn't a flat seal to the tank. I used some 3M gasket sealant between the sending unit and tank which took care of the gas smell. Then all the sudden I was only able to fill the tank 3/4 full and even to get there I had to spend 10 minutes just trying to get the gas in slow enough to not come back out at me. This was the day before I was going in to have my ACL surgery, and I was on my way to work with an empty tank of gas. I said screw it and brought it to a service shop to have the filler and vent lines replaced since they seemed kind of kinked (because of my bodylift). That still didn't fix it so I decided to try to live with it and hope it would magically fix itself. 3 weeks later I couldn't stand it any more. I was buying gas every other day and it was getting kind of annoying having gas pour back out at me when I tried to put the gas pump on auto fill. Brought it to Nissan this time to have it checked out. They found that the tank I bought had some corrosion inside it that worked its way into the sending unit and screwed that up beyond repair. Only solution was to get a new sending unit and gas tank. I bent over and took the repair from Nissan just to get the warranty that nothing like this will happen again for 12,000 miles. Since you are only smelling gas when the tank is full, I would bet that your sending unit is probably corroded too. You've got 2 choices then. 1) try to seal it with some 3m gasket sealant. or 2) buy a new sending unit. If your tank is also corroded there, you might be better off just buying all new tank and sending unit and not going through what I did. Good luck with whatever you decide.

That's good to know its the same part number. Never realized how many different types of wires and ends there were until now. What did you use to crimp the ends on? Will an electrical wire stripper/cutter/crimper work? Maybe just a needle-nose?

What about sliders? Got anyone around you who can fab them up?

I think I just got those same wires. Your install looked pretty good, so I decided to do the same since I need new plugs and wires. Do you remember the part number for the kit you bought? I have the MSD-3108 on order from Autozone. Their price was $59.95, but they matched the $50 Summit price and NO handling fee! Also bought the distributor cap and rotor for $18 and $4. I'm pretty impressed with the prices at Autozone especially compared to the Checker that is across the street.

You must have bought Chevy rims. They have a smaller center bore which doesn't fit on the front of Nissans.

Thanks! I'll just use a hose then.

Were you able to get a shop vac down in there before changing them to keep any loose dirt or sand down there from falling in when the plug comes out? Which plugs and wires did you go with? I'll go do my search now and see what others have done.