dhardison

I've been seeing some of those m/s2's too. An Explorer that parks next to me sometimes just got a set. I think it's what they are going to use to phase out the original ltx and bring the sizes more in line with new suvs and light trucks. No 3x sizes and only one 15 inch rim size a 235, lots of 16, 17, 18, 19, and even 20's. Plus low rolling resistance and green technology.

I think you were right though if you are comparing a mild AT tire and a 6 ply M/S truck tire like the LTX then you might not notice much difference in noise and ride between the two as a mild AT tire should be fairly quiet. The LTX was available as an AT tire also but the tread was the same so I don't know what the internal difference is. I do know that the 3x/1x.5/1x LTX's look like a more aggressive tire than the 235 size tires you've got laying around. Haven't seen any 235's LTX's on a Pathfinder but I've noticed several HondaZuZu's wearing them and they do look pretty lame in that size. My opinion when I posted was on the incredible mileage people get, he would probably trade Pathfinders before he ever wore them out. And like most Michelins, easy balance, no tire pull, no out of round, straight tracking, long life, low noise, that's what you're paying for. Like oldslow I am surprised by the their traction in the snow and mud considering how easy they are to live with on the street.

It's hard to beat a Michelin ltx, only tire I've ever run on my Path, but they are pricey. On the flip side I've known several people, my dad included, who have gotten 60, 70 or 80k out of them on SUV's.

Yes but thinking back I've never seen any dealer specials with the manufacturer logo on the id plate. Even some of the big ones I can think of like Choo Choo customs for GM trucks or in my case an ASC McLaren foxbody mustang convertible I once owned. They couldn't or wouldn't use the Chevy or Ford logo as part of their ID, logo, or numbering plate.

I've heard some people use traffic signs and they could be free. Sorry meant to reply to the main thread. My Bad

That makes the most sense. I could see Nissan building a test run of 300 Pathfinders at the Smyrna truck plant to see about moving assembly from Japan.

A trick they learned from GM building "Collector Edition" Corvettes in the '90s

Had me stumped too and then I found this instruction sheet which explains it in procedure #5. Programming instructions PDF

It's 3 inches wide by about 2 1/2 inches tall.

Cleaning out the garage and ran across this unused adhesive sticker. Anybody want to take a guess as to what it's purpose is.

And it must be a difficult to overcome clearance issue too. If I remember correctly my 92 NA 300 was rated at 225 OR 222 HP. Before I got schooled by the forum I used to think when the time came for an engine I would just drop in a 225 HP VG out of a wrecked Z and switch to a 4.88 gear to compensate for the power coming on at a higher rpm. Sounds easy in theory but must be almost impossible in real life. For comparison the first VQs in 3.0 displacement claimed 190 HP.

My truck has been running great on NGK iridium plugs for about 10,000 miles. But once I put a set of Bosch platinums in a car and within 300 miles it was running so bad I almost had to tow it to the dealer. The dealership replaced those plugs with OEM plugs and everything was great. So I agree not all engines like platinum plugs. It's worth checking out.

Hey it could be worse and have this dash on a D21 I looked at recently that didn't even have a factory tach. Now that's a stripper.

I double checked with my friend that did the work and what we ordered and replaced was correct. The bottom bushing on the stabilizer rod is part of the rod and that's why I had to order two rods, one for each side. The bottom of the rod which actually bolts to the sway bar has the pressed on to and part of the rod itself bushing, the threaded top part that bolts to the frame has the two bushings. 4 bushings do both sides. I looked and I didn't see an upper and lower rod, only a single rod on each side.

Sorry, If I remember correctly I just had to do the long lowers or maybe just one side. I had a friend that works at Pep Boys look at it and told me what I needed to order. He put them on in his spare time. I was quoting what I ordered off my Courtesy Receipt.

I replaced my links and bushings to get rid of a clunk in my rear every time the rear body weight would shift from left to right. I didn't know about 4x4 parts or Alkoril back then so I ordered everything from Courtesy Nissan. The rods were a back ordered item back then so it must be a common wear out problem. Anyway here is a list of what Courtesy called them and what I paid. 2 Rod Assembly-Connecting stabilizer 56260N 1987-95 $58.92 total for 2 4 Bushing Rear stabilizer 56243 1987-95 $14.20 total for 4 I must have been dumber back then because I thought I had to order the rods because there was a bushing that was pressed on the rod too.

Thanks, I've thought about re-indexing after reading about it in some forum posts. The trans was out for a rebuild at 168,000 before I bought it. The shop that did it has a good reputation in our area for transmissions but their focus was probably on the trans and removing and replacing the tbars was an afterthought.

That's my biggest fear too. Worry about it more than the Z, it's pretty hard to steal chip coded new cars. Got any thoughts on that rotted torsion bar dust boot in the first set of pics? It looks like the whole bar has to come out to replace it.

Thanks, I'm going to check that idler pulley. Sometimes I listen and think that's it then other times I'll listen and I'm not so sure. Didn't know there was a way to check it, just replace it. It doesn't really sound like belt noise but I've had some belts make strange noises over the years. The belts were all changed 22,000 miles ago with Nissan belts as part of a 178,000 mile timing belt service done at a Nissan dealership right before I bought it. I asked the lady original owner I bought it from why she paid all that money to have the timing belt service done at a dealership on something that old and she replied that she wanted to make sure it was done right. That's when I knew out of all the Pathfiners I'd looked at this was going to be the one I would buy and keep for a long time.

It's tracking straight and the suspension seems tighter than any other 200k car or truck I've ever driven.

No, and after reading posts in here about getting the filter off I knew I never would.

exceeded the picture limit in my first post so here are the rest

Nice day and I'm off after working 7 straight days so I crawled under the Path and looked around. Should I be concerned about the rotted out torsion bar dust cover in the first pic? Are they hard to change? Anybody got a guess why there is oil on my cv joint in pic two? Everything else looks pretty good to me but I'm no expert so if you see anything else that looks bad or might be a future problem all help is appreciated.

What does this squeaking chirping sound like. In the first part of the video the engine is cold and it's louder. In the second section of the vid the engine has warmed up to operating temp and it quiets down some but never goes away. Also in the second part the ac cycles on and off a few times but that doesn't really change the sound. Only adds a little compressor noise to the mix.

My trucks previous owner had spilled some bleach on the cargo carpet and it looked like crap. I've complained in a previous post about the poor fit of my Weather Tech floor mats which aren't really a true custom fit mat for WD21s. Some $20 trim to fit Walmart mats I bought for my 95 Pathfinder I used to own fit better. After finding out what it was going to cost to have that carpet replaced with correct edge bound carpet I decided to go ahead and order the deep dish cargo mat from Weather Tech and give them a chance to redeem themselves. Checked first to make sure it was a true custom fit for my application unlike the floor mats. Fits nice and like all Weather Tech mats looks like it will last forever, or at least longer than the truck frame.