tekazgtr1984
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Posts posted by tekazgtr1984
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I think you mean coilsprings.com
Yeah, I've debated contacting Kevin but I'm not sure if they would require a set of front and rear coils in order to make what I need. I was hoping some company out there offers stiffer OEM-length coils.
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No idea... I just want to know if there is a OEM-length equivalent coil with a higher spring rate.
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These auto hubs actually affect mileage that much huh? I never thought it would, but then I got one downfall, I can't use the auto 4wd anymore! Either way, I would probably just use on or off anyway...LOL!
Manual hubs can be used with All-Mode transfer case system. As long as you have the hubs locked when using AUTO or 4WD, you'll be fine. You can disengage only when the selector is in 2WD.
You can expect gains of about 1 mpg with manual hubs. The wear and tear on your front drivetrain is also reduced.
I wouldn't say there are "cheap" mods out there but fresh plugs are always good, along with making sure all sensors are up to code. But if you want to increase output, you'll want to spend some decent coin to do it right.
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There is a discrepancy on those OME coils.. they only make them in one height but nobody really knows what the true height is.. ARB (the manufacturer) lists them as a .5" lift, as also do some dealers. Rocky road outfitters advertises them as a 1.75" lift.
Who has bought OME's and how much real lift did they give you?
I had OME coils on my previous R50, and I had approximately 2" of lift. Front coils were OME 928.
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I'm pretty sure the OME coils are all ~1.75" lift, IIRC. The OME928 heavy duty coils are what I had on the '98.
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As I'm sure everyone knows, I'm hoping to install a SFD on the Q come spring. I'm on the fence if I want to go with lift coils because I think the 4" SFD will provide enough height for what's going to be a glorified mall-crawler... For real, I have no intention to wheel this thing.
That being said, ZJ or WJ lift coils should work nicely in the rear with the 4" SFD up front. However, I don't think I want to stick with OEM coils because they just don't cut it compared to the OME coils I had on the '98. I'm curious if anyone knows of any companies who produce stock height coils with stiffer spring rates.
If not, I guess I gotta go with lift coils...
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Is that all it mounts with? 6 measley bolts?
I wouldn't exactly call those bolts 'measly'...
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Thanks guys.
Tyler, are those stop tech brake pads as well? I don't recall seeing any online.
I found mine as a kit with the rotors and pads, through a company called Kuruma Motoring. You might want to contact them directly.
The brake pads I got are the Street Performance kind. Here's the info:
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I went with the Stoptech Sportstop kit, mostly because I was able to talk down the seller $75 on it.
Slotted rotors and composite pads, good for OEM spec but ideal for lifted R50s with larger tires.
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Go figure, Japanese automakers continue to keep all the goodies outside of North America... What else is new?
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Jeebus, let it go already. Be the bigger man and walk away. Internet arguing is beyond pathetic.
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So, I was able to take out a fender splash guard/liner to access inside the fender where the motor is located... And, well... Let's just say it didn't quite go as I had anticipated.
For one, I couldn't locate the prong so I tried to take the motor cover apart to access the internals. The two bottom screws were rusted up something nasty, to the point where one snapped off at the head and the other just refused to budge, even after loading 'em up with penetrating fluid.
Long story short, I took out the motor and temporarily relocated the FM antenna. A big 'eff you' to Nissan for such a stupid piece of hardware. But, this gives me an opportunity to try one of two options:
1) Use the existing hole in the fender and install a low-profile antenna, much like this:
Or, 2) relocate the antenna to the roof and install an angled low-profile antenna (Viper antenna by Race Sport UK):
I think the second option is definitely a better idea.
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AFAIK, I doubt any of those mods would throw a CEL. My guess is a sensor has decided to crap out. The only issue is knowing which one so getting codes read becomes absolutely paramount at this point,
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I think a code reader is the only way. I highly doubt the CEL has anything to do with installing manual hubs.
Could be any number of things. Best bet is to take it to a shop (ideally an indy shop over a dealership) and have the codes pulled.
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So much for this thread being about a unique custom job.
@Chris: great idea. Love the fact you turned a Pathy into a ragtop beachcruiser rig. Totally badass. The pillars could use a little refinement, that's all.
One favour, though. Please don't hate on this forum because a few people gave their honest opinions forthright. Thanks.
Cheers!
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Why? There's no long term detriment to switching back and forth (except of course you get random mixes of dino/synth oil left over in the engine for a while).
Not so much, i was referring more to the seals being affected by the petroleum distillates found in regular dyno oil, which synthetic doesn't contain. This was the advice given to me, so I stuck with it.
In any case, I've always ran synthetic in all my vehicles.
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You should be able to fit those wheels with 2" spacers no problem. Even 1.5" spacers would do the trick.
And welcome to the forum.
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I will know this weekend if I need spacers... Going to run 265/75r16 Mickey Thompson MTZs on the stock wheels. Truck has AC lift and NX4 strut spacers (soon). If I do need them, this thread is all kinds of win. Thanks for all the tips and links!
What's the backspacing (offset) of your wheels? You should be able to get away with those size tires permitted your wheels have adequate backspace for clearance. Even if you have the right BS/offset, spacers will still help widen your 'stance', which always looks good, IMO.
And remember, some trimming may be required in order to clear your fenders/bumpers, especially when steering at full lock.
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I have a Nissan Safari/Patrol inclinometer which was gonna go in the '98 using some custom fibreglassing... That would be the best option, IMO.
Something like this could work, using a similar mounting system like GPS units:
Or you can go this route, which is more compact and badass, IMO.
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Byes for now, Her Slickness. Gonna miss ya...
Come back real soon!
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This is what I had in mind for my truck... right now I have moog on it and they are solid. but we'll see if they break...
Tierod porn!
OT but are you planning on desining these for the R50? Moog's probably the best option otherwise.
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Synthetic couldn't hurt, IMO. Just make sure you stick with it and don't return to conventional oil.
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Exactly what I do...go around once at 60 ft-lbs to get them seated right then hit them all with 100 ft-lbs...
If you're gonna do it, do it right.
here they are : http://cgi.ebay.com/...#ht_2302wt_1165
exactly them...and they are still at the same price I paid them 2 years ago !!
Good service and fast shipping. Product is top notch.
S.
Thanks for the link! Good price for a set of four. Methinks the search for spacers is over.
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Great mod. Custom fab FTW.
Is this recommended for anyone running 32" or larger tires? Seems like a worthwhile mod for anyone going SFD.
Front coils
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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I bought my SFD kit for the '98 and paid about $500. 4-5" lift coils would be impossible up front unless you were to SAS.
Good to know. Thanks.
I am planning on Jeep coils but for the rear. So if I go with 4" coils in the rear, I can't add lift coils when the SFD is already adding 4" of lift up front; it won't be equal. What I'm hoping is 4" over stock, SFD up front with OEM length coils but stiffer than stock, and all suspension in the rear with coils.