Cuong Nguyen

The shift kits will help as it will increase the line pressure between shifts. I'm still researching a way to control the line pressure throughout shifts and different modes. Superior and transgo sells shift kits. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Yeah I was meaning the fender support. This will help you out: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1990_PATHFINDER_Body_Repair_Manual.pdf Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

So you're saying you want to keep your original fenders and front end? The fenders are end on by numerous plug welds and seam sealer. unplug or cut up the harnesses. I think cc pathfinder has done a similar swap. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Generally you can just check the color and smell of the fluid. If it's not cherry red or smells sweet, then it's old. Make sure you let the motor run and shift the transmission through the gears. You check fluid level with the engine running and after the engine has fully warmed up. If you did this and it's still overfilled, you can just drain it a little by removing the transmission drain bolt on the bottom of the pan. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

When I had a semi running motor, the transmission would kick down and up bucking but that could a whole slew of things which I had no time diagnosing at the time. As for the broken bits, I highly doubt that could be the issue as the oil filter would prevent the pieces from being pumped into the internals. When you did the engine swap, did you have issues lining up the torque converter and inputshaft on the oil pump? I have not gone through the whole troubleshoot of the transmission yet, but when I do I'll let you know what I come up with. I'm still learning the intricacies of automatic transmissions.

I found the main piece stuck to the pan and the other two stuck on the valve body. don't mind my burned and broken brake band friction material.

I ran without a dropdown bracket for a long time. the higher the lift, the more the panhard pulls the axle to the right in order the center the axle. it does not affect the amount of lift.

faulty wiring or just a bad CAS. just return it and try a new one. If it doesn't work, try a different brand. That would be my start. Pull the codes first before you do anything else.

Sounds like a bad distributor.

You can drain the block when you remove it.

Looking at the FSM, I'm guessing it might be the thrust washer that sits on the rear shaft of the oil pump. Again, I am just guessing until I tear it down and figure out where else it could come from.

Pulled the pan and found the same thing. It broke in 3 pieces. I just got to figure out where it came from for both our sakes. What kind of issues were you having? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

It does look familiar but I'm going off a vague memory from years ago when I first pulled the valve bodies apart. If I get some free time this today or this weekend I'll drop the pan and take a look for you. I'm still in the middle of disassembling the transmission.

rearmost plate is concave. note orientation.

Now for the low/Reverse brake assembly. Remove retaining ring.

lower needling bearing and one way clutch bearing

] Time to remove the forward clutch assembly. Look at all them clutch packs.

Back to the front, pull out the front internal gear, rear internal gear with the forward clutch hub, and overrun clutch hub.

Pull the output shaft out through the rear. Well that doesn't look good.

Pull out the rear sun gear in the middle. This will expose the snap ring holding the output shaft. Push the output shaft from the rear towards the front of the transmission to have better access to the snap ring. Looks like things were getting hot in hurrrr.

To close up the reverse clutch assembly is the front sun gear. Now for the goodies: Front planetary carrier

Under the gold cap that you see in the middle of the drum are a set of springs. Use a C-Clamp or suitable tool to play pressure on the cap to remove the lock ring. The high gear clutch assembly is what fits inside the reverse clutch assembly. removing the clutch pack and innerds is the same as previous. Next up, the high clutch hub which again fits inside the previous innerds.

The FSM says something about loosening this so you can release the brake band. I kind of bypassed this and just pulled out the reverse clutch assembly out and the band just popped loose. Be sure to not lose the band retainer pin holder thing. Not sure what the FSM calls it. You can see the small thing in above the parking gear lock thing. The brake band "brakes" the drum from spinning. Yeah, so this is where those bits and pieces I saw floating around in my transmission came from: Missing friction material equals rivets grinding down on the reverse clutch drum. I need to find a transmission guru to pick their brains. If the band is too tight than the fluid is squeezed out of the friction material causing premature wear and possibly glazing. I imagine too lose would cause weird shifting issues. That's what the nut on the outside of the transmission case is for. There's a specific range for the tightness of the band which I will have to find somewhere. So you've removed the drum which is part of the reverse clutch assembly. On the backside of the drum one of the many clutch packs of the transmission. Remove the lock ring to get access to the clutch disks. Measure thickness if you want to get an idea of how worn they are. Chunk and replace.