Legalalien

Thanks!

Hi guys, Last sunday on the way to church I stopped at a red light and when I went to take off I heard a thump and the tranny went into neutral and hasn't worked since. the shifter still moves and I can feel it clicking into every gear but nothing happens it will also lock in park. I set the transfer case in 4H and rotated the rear drive shaft and the front one rotated so I don't think its the TC. Has anybody have this happen before? Am I looking an having to get a tranny or is this a simple fix? Could it be the torque converter gone bad? any help will be greatly apresiated.

Is this the nissan PN or is this an aftermarket number?

It looks like the previous owner drove the truck with the e brake on because the shoes are almost to the metal. Im sure that if I adjust them they will work but I dont whant to take the chance of messing up the rotors.

Thanks for the advice, I realy wish it was that simple and apologise if I didn't explain myself well enough; see my 91 came with disk brakes in the back from the factory,and some mechanical genius at Nissan desided that the brake and E-brake systems should be separate, so the rear rotors have two functions, the ouside calipers and pads only work with the brakes and there is a small drum in the center area of the rotor that looks like a 7 or 8 inch drum with small shoes wish only work with the E brake. those little shoes are the ones I was refering to. The local auto pts tell me they are a "dealer only" item hense the dealers $160.00+ tag (just for the shoes) and there is the reason Im looking for a cheaper alternative.

Hey everybody, Has anybody fownd a cheaper alternative to replace them little E-brake shoes on the rear disk brakes? None of the local AP stores have them and the dealer whants $167.50+tax for the set. I ask because the shoes look allot like trailer brake shoes and I'm hoping that somebody else has done this before and can save me allot of reasearch time

Hey guys, I found this variation; i think that it would work beter for our application. http://www.tsmmfg.com/Watts_Linkage.htm

Iiiiintresting, very very iiiiintresting; I think I'll keep an eye on this one.

So, If I understand you corectly, A spring that has the coils wound close together will be softer than a spring with the coils spread further apart so long as the two spring are the same leinght and have the same wire diameter?

Duuuuude way cool! Thanks for the explanation, but I'm gonna need a little more explaning on the wire leinght afecting the spring rate. I can see this hapening when the spring is manufactured (to make a spring the same leinght with a shorter wire the coils will have to be further apart wich gives the wire a steeper angle making the spring stiffer) but I'm not geting how cuting a spring without changing the wire angle or the distance betwen coils afects the rate. I guess Ineed to get myself back to school too. Anyways, there will be a perfect oportuniti for experimenting when I install this springs.

Double checked the measurments and the OD is 5 1/4" but the diameter is still 5/8" I put my weight (285lbs) down on one of them and it yielded more than I thought it would; could this be made of a softer materiel than the OEM ones? Does spring rate depends on diameter or on the metal aloys the pring is made of. I wish manufacturers would stamp technical info on this things or at least the brand name so I can reseach it.

Hi, I just came back from the junk yard and I got a set of springs from a 2000 cherokee sport. the measurements are 4in ID, 5 5/8in OD and 22in long, the diameter is about 5/8in and I counted 12 coils. Sinse these seem to be thicker and taller than anything I have seen in this thread Im asuming they are lift springs for the Cherokee. Has anybody used this type of springs before? My pathy is my only mode of transprtation so I cant aford to have to disasemble the rear end a bunch of times to re cut this springs. any sugestions will be apresiated.

There are 3 ways to check the FPR that I know of; the first one is to disconect the vacum line of the FPR and look at the line, if it is wet iside the FPR is bad. The secon is to hook a presure gauge to the fuel rail,start the vehicle and whatch the presure when you rev up the engine(acording to my manual, the presure should read 34 PSI at idle and 43 PSI the moment the throttle plate is fully open(same as having the key on with the engine off). The third way is to pull the FPR out and use a vacum pump to aply vacum to the diafram and see if the plunger moves. The FPR is a "normally closed" valve so it should be closed at rest and open when vacum is aplied. PS. My factory service manual has this other test to diagnose the problem: With the engine running, disconect the injector plugs one at a time; the engine should have a momentary drop in speed with each one. If any of the cylinders doesn't ; pull the distributor out (don't forget to TDC piston #1 First :-) keeping the small plug connected(unplug the coil to prevent detonations), then turn the ignition switch on and slowly rotate the gear on the distributor (Doesn't matter wich way ) each injector should make a sound. If any of them doesn't then the problem is with the injector or with the crank angle sensor (inside the distributor) If all above checks out good then the book recomend checking the ECU harness conector and the pin terminals for damage or poor conection then check the ecu power and ground and if all checks ok then try a known good ECU. To adjust the TPS on a KA24E Loosen the mounting bolts,start the engine and let it warm up to operating temperature; then use a voltmeter to check the output voltage. set the ouput voltage to .4 - .6 volts by rotating the body of the TPS when you get it right shut off the engine and tigten the mounting bolts then disconect the TPS for a few seconds and reconect it and you are done. I hope this helps

Have you checked the TPS (Throtle Position Sensor) and/or the fuel presure regulator? I had an oldsmovile once that was doing the same thing and it was a dead spot in the TPSjust off the idle position. If the fuel presure regulator is stuck open the fuel presure will drop when you accelerate and stall the engine.

Hey Kittamaru, I used to own a body shop back in the day when the only afordable option was oxifuel, I would recomend that you learn all you can with the oxifuel (specialy puddle control) before you go into Mig or Tig trust me it will be allot easier to produce profecional looking beads and there will be less chance of blowing holes or warping the quarter panels. I will also recomend that (unless you are verry proficient with the oxigass) you wait untill you are comfortable with the MIG. With oxigass it is a pain in the but to keep your puddle on a vertical surface while holding the torch and the filler rod not to mention the posibility of spending too much time in one spot and warping the panel or catching something on fire. Talking about fires, I used to keep a 2 liter botle full of water with a small hole in the cap to put fires out (no mater how well you clear the area, someting allways catches fire ) Good luck and lots of Patience PS. Have you cosidered replasing the hole quarte panell skin?

Thanks for the info. The most notisiable gas inproving mod I have made is to install Bosch dual electrode sparkplugs My pathy went form 11 MPG to 17MPG city by just doing that change. I just installed headers and havent noticed a great deal of improvment on the mpg but I have noticed better hi end power, the tranny doesn't down shift as often and it will keep speed going uphill without having to give it more gas. Next mod will be a better flowing muffler and larger sise pipes, we will see how it works. but thanks again for the info, every little bit helps.

Are you wanting to make it beter/stronger or repair it? Hablas Espanol?

Are you talking about the gears iside of the diferential ball, or the shaft's that transfer power to the weels?

If you still have the auto hubs you might want to check that they are not locked on.

Mine is black on the sides and clearcoat peeling off grey on the hood and top And plenty of trail "character" all over.

Looks Great, and thank you for using an x pipe I hate those guys that pipe their v6's straight out and when they take off it sounds like two lawnmowers drag racing Anyways, how about making a video so we can hear how it sounds.

Finaly figured ou the problem, it was the damed PCV valve hose,(the one that conects the valve with the tube that runs under the intake) it had hardened and cracked and I guess it was shrinking when it got hot and creating a vacum leak. the mestup thing is that it looked perfecly good and if i had not lost my balance and grabed the damed thing I probably still be looking for the cause. Thanks to all of you that gave me sugestions.

My first offroading experience was on a 2 1/2 ton WW2 Army truck douring a field training exersise in South Korea. I got stuck a couple of times and had to have a tank recovery vehicle pull me out but from that point forward I was hooked.

Have you checked for junk traped between the condenser and the radiator? If you do allot of hiway driving the cooling fins can get pluged up with bug chunks and other hiway garbage.

Carma is real, he got what he deserved and you didn't have to sink to his level. Cudos to you