morpheus
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Posts posted by morpheus
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The Nissan dealership, and very expensive.
Just priced one for curiosity sake... Retail $626.38... and they're in stock at the warehouse... gee, I wonder why...
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They did have some major problems with them that they identified, and have repaired.
Now the competition is using that against Nissan as a marketing ploy at dealerships
"Nissan's have transmission problems, it'll cost you $7000 to replace when it goes after 5 years"
Nissan's response is basically we'll warranty the transmission for just about as long as you own the car... Most people don't keep vehicles past 10 years or 200,000 km, so they might as well have said "lifetime" warranty.
They've also dropped the price by an average of $1300 on a remanufactured transmission to bring the cost down when the vehicle is out of warranty, making it more in line with a normal automatic transmission replacement/rebuild.
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Hi everyone im new to this site and i need some advice before i shell out some cash for a lift i have a 02 pathfinder .i am going to get a OME lift 1.75 with the ome shocks they provide and im going to keep my stock struts buy new strut mounts but i was wondering if i really need those manual locking hubs they seem like a pain in the ass to get out of the truck when i need to switch into 4wd i love the shift on the fly. its sounds worth it i deff. dont wanna be replacing my cv's in a year because of a lift if i dont by hubs
If you put manual hubs on, and leave them in the locked position, it will operate exactly as your setup now (drive flanges). You can drive around in the poor weather, or when 4x4 will be most likely used, but get out and flip them to free-wheeling when going on the freeway or everyday normal driving. What you spend on the hubs will pay for it's self in fuel savings in no time.
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Don't know if it will affect anyone here, but as of monday Nissan will be announcing a warranty extension on all 2003-2010 Nissan models with a CVT transmission.
There will also be a procedure to re-imburse any customers who purchaced a transmission that was out of warranty, that is now under warranty due to the warranty extension.
The old warranty was 5 years or 100,000km / 60,000 miles
the new warranty will be 10 years or 200,000km / 120,000 miles.
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Yeah I've seen those, but they're still kinda pricey.. comparatively speaking of the ones I'm looking at.
How do you like it though?
If you're looking at a cherokee bumper for $300 or a guaranteed to fit WD-21 bumper for $500, you have to think of what kind of material cost, and labour cost (even if you're doing it yourself) into the cherokee bumper.
I really like the bumper, has worked very well for me this year, winched a couple of times, no issues.
Fit and finish is nice, welds were well done. No issues whatsoever. My only regret is not spending the extra money and had the integrated offroad lights in it, but I can always modifiy and add that myself down the road if I want.
The onlything with ken mtn, is that althought they deliver exactly what they promise, double whatever the delivery TIME is that they quote you. I don't know if I got them at the busy time of year, but mine almost took twice as long as promised.
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Oh, definatly, if you've still got the broken piece, take it to the hardware store, they can clamp it in their duplicator and copy it right there.
I assumed the broken piece was gone.
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Back in the mid 90's, the dealership had to record the key code dring registration, a practice that was usually skipped due to lazyness. Now a days they are recorded right at the factory.
Look in your glove box, look for a sticker with a X____ code on it. Thats your keycode.
If not, call a local locksmith and ask them how much it will cost to make you a key. They can either use a wax impression, or remove the door lock cylinder and using the tumbler orientation create a key from that. Phone around, expect to pay probably $100-$200 to have it done.
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... a cavalier in a sport coat ...
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A 99.5-04 brush guard will bolt up to a 96-99, however the support hardware that bolts to the bumper mid way will not fit and would need to be customized.
A 96-99 will not fit a 99.5-04 due to the bumper sticking out farther on the 99.5+
A bumper like pezzy's or mine will fit on any year from 96-04 because you're replacing the entire bumper assembly.
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you should be fine with a dolly. The cooler is a great idea, even if you were just wheeling.
you have to figure a complete car hauler probably weighs at least 1500 lbs by it's self, and if you were thinking about u-haul, they probably wouldn't let you run it with a pathy. They've got pretty strict guidelines.
The dolly probably only weighs 300lbs, and if it's the crapalier that you're towing in the pic, it's front wheel drive, so it would work great on a 2 wheel dolly.
Make sure if you're renting the dolly from u-haul too, that you stop by ahead of time and make sure they "OK" your vehicle for towing it.
I've heard many people show up the day they're supposed to go and they won't let them take it because of stupid reasons.
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The only problem about disconnecting the strut from the spindle, is if you have a lift, you most likely have adjustable camber bolts, even if you don't have a lift, someone may have installed them.
If so, and you disconnect here, you will have to do an alignment afterwards.
Common practice is to disconnect the ball joint. It also gives you a chance to check the balljoint for siezing, or wear.
If something is going to go wrong with the balljoint, you'd rather it happen on the hoist then on the road.
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Along with the mentioned above issues, check the transmission mount as well for wear or breakage.
If everything checks out ok, including all ovbvious driveline bushines, including balljoints, etc... then you might have and issue inside the transmission, or possibly with the clutch release bearing.
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I've actually seen more than one person do this modification in real life.
The addition of the resistor to the intake air temp sensor tricks the ecu into thinking the outside air temperature is much lower than it actually is. Then the ecm opens the fuel injectors a little longer to allow more fuel in the system, and that's what they're claiming gives you 20HP increase.
What they forget to tell you is that your oxygen sensor behind the motor will now tell the ecu that the engine's running too rich, and to shorten the injector cycle, essentially cancelling it's self out.
End result? your out $7 for a resistor that costs 0.05c in the first place.
Zero performance change.
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Thanks for your response everyone
I will follow your advice for both diff and let it run out of the filler plug.
But for the auto tranny and or something else, having a 1999.0 do I follow FSM for 1998 or 1999 ?
People who have the 1999.5 are they folowing 1999 or 2000.
I know it is not a big deal since the 2 truck are quite the same, but for peace of mind I would
love to know wich one to follow blindly and not made bad choices
It can get complicated.
Auto tranny fill till proper level on dipstick, ignore fluid capacity completely, becuase that includes torque converter fill as well. It will tell you capacity is something like 8L of fluid, but a drain and fill will only get out about 4L..
Basically, if your vehicle is a 1999 model (ie: metal/chrome bumper and glass headlights) use the 1998 FSM. If yours is a 1999.5 (ie: complete plastic bumper cover and plastic headlights) use the 2000 FSM.
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yes, there's a 99 pathfinder and a 99.5 pathfinder
Don't worry about following the capacity in the FSM, as GrimGreg said, fill it to the bottom of the fill hole. Once fluid starts pouring back out at you you know you're at the right level. Same goes for both diff's and for a manual transmission.
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Well, I found this guy doing a VG30 to VG33 swap in his WD21:
http://nissannut.com/maintenance/vg33e_upgrade/
I found him in a thread talking about bolting his VG30 pacesetter headers up to his new VG33 he's swapping in and them fitting. (with pics)
http://www.nissanoffroad.net/messageboard/...c=6539.msg81692
now this is getting interesting....
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I had a chance to see a set of headers for a WD21 off the rack and I compared the set up to the manifolds in the R50 and the difference was not worth the effort for me. The flange appears to have the same bolt pattern to match the head, so there is little issue there. The major issue was the angle of the collector to connect to the first set of Cats. A local muffler shop had stated that the work required to get the angle right would probably be as much if not more than the cost of a custom set.
Where I did not/do not have access to a welder, the cost was not worth the attempt & down time required. I believe that if you move forward, you will be the first with headers except for the few who have the Stillen models!
Good Luck, post back results!
See, I figured I would get 2 high flow cats and simply mount them back a little furthur. And if the angle on the collector was off, I also figured I could sawsall if off about 3-4 inches up, and modify as required and then weld it back into place.
It would probably mean installing the header, tack welding in place, removing manifold, and then properly welding, then re-coating the header. Then I could just have a custom front pipe bent for each side, install the high flow converter ( I'll still have to be able to pass emissions) and continue off into a flowmaster or magnaflow muffler.
It'll probably be a while before I do this, I've started to develop the cold weather start manifold leak, so I know it'll have to be done eventually, I'm just researching at the moment.
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I spent a lot of time today searching/researching headers for the pathfinder
I found that no one makes headers for the R50 (stillen used to, but they discontinued them)
So I went in search of alternatives.
Found out that the VG33 in the path, frontier and xterra all have the same exhaust port setup, but the manifold setup from the pathy and the frontier/xterra are a lot different.
What was interesting, is I found out that the port setup in the VG30 is exactly the same as the VG33. In fact, I found a lot of information VG30 owners swapping VG33 heads for a performance increase (a different topic) The only difference between the VG30 and VG33 heads (as far as exhaust port setup) is the VG33 has bigger exhaust studs.
Originally I thought I might be stuck modifying a set for a frontier/xterra, but this new piece of information opens all the WD21's, 300ZX etc.. headers, which everyone seems to make.
I was wondering if anyone had heard of anyone trying this at all? I found lots of guys talking about it, but no one actually doing it.
So I'm looking at these wondering if they'll work:
They're listed for a 300zx, and I may have to adjust the collector angle/setup, but now it's got me thinking....
does anyone know anyone who has done this successfully?
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Happened with an Xterra as well, and the owner got a partial settlement. You might know of that one as well Mike.
It was an xterra then, not a pathfinder my mistake... yes, I know about that, but I wasn't involved with it... it was done somewhere else.
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I have personally seen 2 transmissions completely FAIL shortly after putting GL-5 fluid in them. 1 in a pathfinder, 1 in a 350z
One of those people took the shop that put the gl-5 fluid in their transmission to court and won a settlement. They had 3 samples of fluid sent to a lab for testing, and he shared the results with me.
1 test was brand new never used gl-4 fluid
1 test was brand new never used gl-5 fluid
1 test was the fluid from his transmission.
There was a huge difference in the additives between the gl4 and 5, specifically with the additives that control friction (from what I remember from reading the report)
bottom line, don't use gl-5 fluid in your transmission. Although you might get lucky, and use a brand that is soft metal safe, you could just as easially not.
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michiganave - Can you rehost the pic? They are not showing for me. Or maybe its just my work comp? hmm...
But good answer. That post should be stickied! SFD how-to!
Jose
I 2nd the motion to sticky
great writeup... makes me want to do it to mine...
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Dish soap has grease lifting detergents in it that laundry soap doesn't. Use whatever works for ya.
I use liquid dish soap, and add table salt
Thorley Headers
in General Forums
Posted · Edited by morpheus
So now you've seen the headers upclose, do you have any opinion on if they'll fit the R50 or not?
I checked on the pacesetter headers today... they've got them instock, I'm contemplating ordering them....