morpheus
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Posts posted by morpheus
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You can always just have it welded back up of it's not covered.
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Looks fairly straight forward, but one thing I didn't see them mention (maybe they did it, maybe I missed it)
Is that all the holes they drilled in the fender will rust out unless they touched up all the bare metal edges with paint.
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Dude... how... wtf? What failed?
That really sucks man...
Looks like a main bearing failure, or one of the bearing cap bolts came loose and fell off.
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i changed my thermostat a while back and a couple days after that there is a loud whining squeling noise coming from one of the pulleys i think. i tightened and loosened the front two belts just playing around to see if it would go away. testing to see if it would do anything but it wont go away. weird thing is that it only does it at idle when the engine is warmed up. when its cold and i start it, it's fine. until it gets warmed up a bit. after its warmed up and its idleing and whining i give it just a little bit of gas and it goes away. anyone know what it could be? and last week i was driving on the lake and there was like 3 inches of water on top of the ice. i drove like 5 miles through the water at like 15-20 mph and after a bout 4 miles the check engine light came on. nothing looked wrong. i figured it would dry up and the light would turn off. but its been on since then. ill have auto zone check it out pretty soon but any one have any idea's? its a 96 pathfinder se
Squeel is definatly your belts, maybe they're loose, maybe they got saturated with antifreeze, maybe they're just old, dry and weathered.
Check engine light could be anything, pull the codes and go from there.
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You could try an oil additive, can't do any harm.
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I hear you there. It's criminal to think ARB wants $1,900CAD if I order the bumper through NAPA. I figure with that money I can get front and rear bumpers made, as well as sweet rock silders and the remaining skid plates. That way I can design it all myself so it really makes things unique.
Keep us posted on your bumper fabrication.
ARB doesn't want $1900, ARB wants $1200USD, NAPA wants the rest.
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That's Funny Sheot! I can laugh about it cause it happened to me many times! I've been locked in and locked out. Thank goodness when I was locked out, it was in the Summer and I had the sun roof out of the Pathy. I bet it was funny watching a grown man crawling up onto his 4X4 and dropping down the sun roof to get into the vehicle.
Electrical units on these vehicles are iffy! The only thing I could suggest is to clean the connections really good.
Good luck!
I'd pay to see that!
lol
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I'm not 100% sure, but I believe you cant' purchase a rocker panel from nissan on it's own, I think you get it as part of the floor pan.
$1800 bucks would be enough to paint a whole truck, you're getting ripped off
a good body shop would simply pull the existing dent by welding a metal piece onto it and using a slide hammer.
Then they will have to use a little filler to make it 100% straight.
don't bother with paint for the rocker panels, have black rubberized rocker guard sprayed on both sides of the truck.
You should be able to get all that done for $500-$700 bucks if you're paying a body shop, or do it in your driveway on a weekend.
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If you're planning on doing anything with it, the motor would have to come out anyways, so get it pulled, and take the oil pan off it.
Get a good look at what your dealing with, then decide if you can fix the existing, or go for a full swap.
You might decide that its not worth putting that much money into it anyways, and just look for a complete used truck.
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I've come outside to leave school and found my doors unlocked, twice now. I make 100% sure they're locked before I leave it.
I don't know if some smart ass knows how to unlock the doors or what, but it's getting old.
Even though there is apparently hundreds of thousands of combinations for the key fob's, there's bound to be duplicates, the idea is just that the chances of them actually ending up near enough to each other is rare.
I've seen at least 4 or 5 times that 1 key fob will lock/unlock more than 1 car at the same time in the parking lot of the dealership.
remote possibility that someone in your school has the same frequency fob as you do.
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I'm thinking you just added another year to your work.... lol...
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If one of the door locks or actuators are siezing up, one of the doors might not be unlocking 100% of the way (partially stuck towards lock) and when you slam the door, the vibrations caused it to flip back to the locked position,
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That's an awsome idea!
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Is the actual engine block damaged, or did it just go through the oil pan?
If the block is not cracked, talk to a machine shop about putting a sleeve in that cylinder.
If the block is cracked, it's garbage.
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How big are those roughly? I have to disagree on the price also. Considering that 1" aluminum carb spacers are about $20 bucks (with hardware and a couple gaskets) and seem to be around the same size. Mass production aside, that's 10x the price.
Not saying that Mike here is trying to rip people off, I just don't think you get what you pay for. I guess thats what you get with supply and demand and the fact that these are probably being made in Canada
I'm not making them, I'm just buying myself a set, and the guy said he could make more for me if there was anyone interested.
I thought the price was ok, since they are being made from aircraft aluminum, and cnc machined, not cut in a jigsaw, and the majority of the cost is his labour, not materials.
Could I have gotten them cheaper? maybe? If I ordered a set from the states, I would have got nailed at the border for taxes, duty and brokerage fees, which probably would have doubled the price of the spacers anyways. I wasn't about to waste my time shopping around to try to save a couple of bucks.
No one's forcing anyone to buy them, I simply stated I have access to a supplier, if you want a set, I can get a set, if you don't want a set, then don't worry about it, walk away.
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I'll post pics when I get them.
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I should have my set in my hands within the week, I'll see what I can do about volume discounts.
Mike.
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It's a fairly common car.
Check www.car-part.com and find yards with hood's insock, then try to find one the same factory color.
You might get lucky, and you'll just have to bolt it on.
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Most likely it's the fan amplifier (similar to fan resistor on manual air). Pretty common.
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White is water/antifreeze, blue is oil, black is gas rich. Get the oil down to a correct level and see what it does...
B
And do it quickly. Driving around with too much oil in the motor can cause damage.
It will also make your gas mileage suck, as the crankshaft has to work that much harder to spin in a huge vat of oil.
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Who's doing the first swap?
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I live in Edmonton and it's freezing cold, -38C tonight! Anyways, starting up my vehicle there's a lot of exhaust. More than I'd expect. It goes down a bit after the car warms up but still there's a lot more than I feel comfortable with. I'd like to say it's just the cold, but I am also getting terrible mileage outta the thing. Moreover it smells a little like gas.
I had a saab with blown head gasket problem and this isn't like that, for one the smell isn't there and it's not overheating (though it's probably impossible in this cold). Filled up with coolant tonight and I'll keep an eye on the level. Also smoke billows like crazy when I rev the engine, could it be something to do with timing? The internet sorta seems to think so. I really need to investigate further, but this terrible gas mileage is worrying me.
It's a 91 V630E Pathfinder.
With -38C weather, I'd expect a lot of exhaust smoke. I wouldn't get too worried, unless you are having some of the other symptoms of a blown head gasket
- lack of heat
- coolant level dropping
- oil level rising and/or turning milky
Also, the colder it gets, the worse your mileage is going to get, because air is denser the colder it gets, so the vehicle needs more fuel to keep the mixture proper.
You could pull the spark plugs out and look for white powder deposits on one or more of the plugs, that would indicate burning coolant.
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I drove mine for almost a year with the release bearing making noise before the clutch finially let go at 290,000km
The good part about a 5spd is that you don't need to worry about getting stranded. If the clutch goes, you can just powershift it to get home/to the shop.
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Wow, when I started this thread, I thought I was doing people a favour, stut spacers seem to be hard to come by, unless you want to make them yourself, and since I was getting a set for myself I thought I'd share.
Never thought I'd get ragged on like this over it..
Never mind then...
Rust Hole
in The Garage
Posted
If possible, before you start, you should try to cut as much of the rusted area out.
Rust is like cancer, if you don't get it out, it will continue to spread.
Any areas that you can't cut out should be sand blasted, then just use some sheet metal to fill the hole.
Mig welding is probably the best way of doing it, however being that it's the floor it doesn't need to look that pretty.
The seat track area definatly needs to be strong, but the bottom of the floor you can simply pop rivit some sheet metal in, then coat it with fiberglass and then tar the crap out of everything to prevent future rust.