morpheus
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Posts posted by morpheus
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Can't they nail them with tresspassing at least?
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If you install the spacer up front your rig will sit level. Otherwise it'll have the raked, tow-truck look... Like mine:
Spacers would be a nice way to even out the ride.
I'm just worried that without rear spacers that the front will actually sit higher than the rear.
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If you're doing the majority of the labour yourself (teardown and re-assembly) and you're ok with the possibility of it not working out, then I'd say go for it, try welding first.. The brass key idea is a good one, because it will keep the hole clean of welding slag.
You'll need to grind the weld area to make everything work.
Otherwise, you'd be looking at least replacing the crank, or the engine.
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So UPS came by today and left me ....
and inside I found...
my late b-day present to myself... my ac springs...
My 1" spacers should arrive tomorrow, and I'm all set to go.
How many people have installed 2" AC coils with 1" strut spacers but not done any spacing with the back springs???
Does it just bring the truck level? Or does the front sit a little higher?
I'm thinking I should try to figure out a rear spring spacer too.
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Most yards will have an interchange book that will tell you what will fit or not, even over different models.
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I want a set! im in canada too!
There's been an unexpected delay at the anodizing shop. (too much backlog) I should have them soon and will post details.
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cool thanks for the help! Also where, other than the dealership do you buy the transfer case filter and is the filter the drain for the fluid or is there some other plug somewhere?
There is no filter for the transfer case. Just fill/drain plugs.
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If you're not using an external oil cooler for the transmission, make sure that the radiator isn't leaking coolant into the transmission lines.
Coolant contaminated ATF will cause a shudder
You can tell by the ATF turning from a red color to a pink milkshake consistancy.
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FSM Actually shows 80W90 for diff's, but 75W90 is close enough if you can't find 80W.
The only thing to make sure, is.. read the diff fluid bottles. Somewhere on there there should be an API reading. Make sure it states API GL-5.
You can buy the same fluid (80w90) in GL-4 which is not the same fluid and will damage stuff.
Also make sure it says for LSD, but I believe if it says GL-5 it will also say LSD.
Capacity's are:
front diff - 3 7/8 pt / 1.85L
rear diff - 5 7/8 pt / 2.8L
transfer - manual - 2 3/8 qt / 2.2L
transfer - all mode - 3 1/8 qt / 3.0L
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Sorry, no pics available. They had alerady stuffed that one back together... The repair cost on the exising one would have been almost double a new one...
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The auto transfer case assy has a complete drum/clutch pack assembly just like an auto transmission does.
It allows the assembly to move in/out of 4wd
It also has a valve body just like a transmission.
I have no experience with gear ratio changing in a transfer case, but I suspect it would be difficult just based on the electronics aspect of it.
We've got one disassembled at the shop, I'll try to remember to grab some pics of it tomorrow.
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Two days ago I came out to go to work only to discover that some inconsiderate SOB hit and ran my 97 Pathy !! They did a nice job of plowing the front bumper in, lucky enough they didn't push anything into the the AC condenser ! Since I didn't put collision on my truck, my deductible for a hit and run is $750 instead of the $300 it would of been had I had collision insurance ! Damage was pegged at $2300, but since I work in an auto parts store, I can get all the parts NEW for about $400 to put it back to stock, but who wants to do stock !?!?!
I have located what appears to be an aluminum TJM bumper off of a mid 80's Toyota pickup that can be had for about $300. Question is if any of you know whether this could be retro fitted to fit before I drive 50 miles to even see it !! I'm thinking if the bracket mounts are close enough, I can have one of the guys at a shop up here whip up some mounts for it. For $300 you can see why I would like to be all over this if it can be made to fit !!
Thanks in advance for input and help !!!
It doesn't look like a bad deal, expecially since it's aluminum, but you don't drive a toyota.. Getting that bumper to fit might be a nightmare. Do the guys at the shop you know have the ability/equipment to weld aluminum?
You may end up with a piece of scrap metal if you're not careful.
I just ordered a bumper from these guys:
http://www.kenmtnac.com/Nissan.html
for an extra $150 bucks, you could have one you'll be guaranteed will fit on your rig and you can customize it if you want.
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nope solid work truck good avg fuel economy...wanna offroad get different gears and diffs all together, as I head that the aluminum one go bang.
I've seen quite a few go bang, and a few front ones too.
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Dude seriously, $165 is so expensive. You go to a machine shop and tell them what you want and you are easily under 120. Strut spacers suck anyways so it doens't even matter. The quality of those pictured above are alot better then what you posted.
Then the ones who posted?
I'm sure you weren't refering to me, as I haven't posted any yet, all I said is I was getting some made. If you just ASS-U-MED something, then.....
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If those are in AU dollars, then it would be around 145USD$... not bad considering the finish and the threads idea...
For $145usd you get a whoppnig 1/2" lift spacer. Whats the point?
For a 1" spacer you have to go to the 25mm at $235Aud
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If the thread I started about strut spacers is any indication, wait for all the people to start screaming what $165 USD is way overpriced.
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Bedliner spray is great to seal/prevent rust.
The problem is, if there's rust already, you need to remove it before spraying by sanding/blasting for it to adhere properly.
I don't know if anyone's tried spraying over rust, but I'd bet it wouldn't last too long.
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Check the alternator output
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CODES
in The Garage
Don't worry about any transmission codes till you get the engine stuff figured out.
If you're driving under throttle and it misfires, it can trigger false trans codes.
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That's not what I expected to see... not a fusable link for sure.
I don't believe that's original.
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I would guess it's a fusable link, but without a pic I can't be 100% sure.
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Here's a pic of it, climb underneath and see if this is what's making the noise:
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The all-mode transfer case has a motor on the back of it that runs at low speeds and when in reverse to run the oil pump.
I'd check that, if it's getting noisy, it could be close to failure, which would starve the transfer case of oil, and cause furthur damage.
U.P.S. stopped by today
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Didn't get much done today besides take my BEFORE pics:
And get the new front struts mounted up to the springs: