morpheus
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Posts posted by morpheus
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A properly made SFD kit will not need camber bolts. So if he doesn't have them now, he shouldn't need them after.
Just installing the AC lift springs alone needs camber adjustment afterwards. I guess if you made the SFD using stock height springs it would work, but I think most people are using the 2" AC coils + the 4" SFD aren't they? At least that's what I'm using.
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Taking out the axle was actually one of the easy parts. Generally dealing with rusted bolts was the tough part. I had to cut off both sway bar links, from the sway bar ends and the strut ends cause they were so bad. Many other bolts had to use lots of leverage, even after soaking with penetrant. I'm replacing all 4 of the knuckle to strut bolts as they are in such bad shape, rusted out and wrecked threads..
You'll need to replace 2 of them with adjustable camber bolts anyways to do the alignment.
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If you want one for trails, don't even worry about looking at the ones made for vehicles. Tom-Tom, etc... they usually don't have any form of off road capability.
For that you'll want a hand held one, probably one that lets you store a lot of way-points, so you can record the various points of the trail.
Someone with more experience with various unit's would be better at giving advice on those.
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No insurance? That's really lucky, it's a $500+ ticket here!
Wow, it's up to a $5000 fine here.
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There's very little oil pressure once it gets to the top of the motor. The worst that would happen is the oil would get splattered around and some would come out the oil cap opening. Just clean up any splashing and adjust the oil level, nothing will happen.
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Thanks for the info! Was going to try and leave the front diff in, but it looks as if there is no way around it
The front diff is easy to remove. Just unbolt the drive shafts, and a few mounting bolts and out it comes. 30 minutes max to remove it.
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I would stay away from the 6 ply tires.
Yes hey have a better load capacity, but they are also about 30% heavier than the 4 ply tires.
Your rolling mass is huge with 6 ply's.
I used 6 ply tires before, then changed to 4 ply's. Gained about 100km / tank just with that change alone.
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What wheels and offset are you using? they look like they stick out quite a bit
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My Titan is an 06 so I don't have the brake pin issue, but I do have the fuel gauge problem. My dealer changed it once and the new unit does the same thing.
And i don't think Nissan cares much about there customers because it took a lot of hell raising before they changed the unit out. They wouldn't believe me that it was screwing up because it always read correctly when I brought it in. They never did fix the brake issue I had either. They just kept making excuses for why the truck would shake when braking. Nothing more aggravating than having a $36,000 truck with 4000 miles shaking like a piece of crap every time I stop! I finally (hopefully) fixed the problem with some slotted frozen rotors and hawk performance pads. It just kills me to have to pay out of my own pocket ($425 just for the front) to fix a problem that the truck had since it was new. Thats why I wont be buying another Nissan.
Sorry for venting just I been through alot of crap with this titan and the 04 I had before it.
James
They did adress the brake problem, with updated brake pads and rotors. There was a campaign on that too, they replaced the pads and rotors at no charge.
I've never had a truck come back with a brake problem after installing the updated parts, maybe yours in a one-off, or posssibly someone put the wrong pads on the truck as part of the campaign, or as a repair afterwards.
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If you dont understand redneck jokes.... you might be... well, you get it.
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does anyone know what the stock length is for the rear?
Jose
Stock was 15" I ordered one for measurement before I ordered mine.
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I got mine from a local hot-rod shop that does custom bodies, etc... Just told them a length I needed, they ordered it no problem, had it in 2 days.
I've heard 30" is what people are using, I ordered 27", but haven't installed it yet.
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LOL I don't know who these 'experts' are you are talking to, but I recommend you stop since they are idiots.
Here you go http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRR-3975860/ with a $12 handling fee and hopefully no tax. I bought 5 last year delivered to my house for $212.
Everything else you stated is correct but I don't know the backspacing of the Legos.
B
Holly crap... They want $214 for the wheels, then $332 extra to ship them to me. Then I'd probably have to pay duty etc.. when they came across the border.
The shipping is more than the wheels..... lol.
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Interesting....just came from the dealer.
They only use GL-5 and not GL-4. The dealer said that if I came in for a transmission flush they would only use GL-5.
Thoughts? Else, I have to go find a place that sells GL-4.
I know of a dealer that put GL-5 fluid in a transmission, it blew up, the owner took the dealer to small claims court. The dealer lost. The FSM clearly says GL-4 is to be used, not GL-5.
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why don't you just get something like this:
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I don't have any experience with magnaflow, but I used to run twin 2 chamber flowmaster mufflers on my 5.0L mustang. I loved them. Extremely loud on the outside behind the car, but almost whisper quiet inside the car.
I had cheaper "super turbo" mufflers on it before and you couldn't hear yourself think in the car on the highway. With the flowmasters you could talk in a normal voice.
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I have a 1998 R50 with a manual transmission. In the shop manual it lists the manual transmission fluid as API GL-4 75W-90 only. However when I went to Kragen, Autozone, Napa Auto Parts - no one had a API GL-4 spec fluid.
Even in their store computers it mentioned that GL-5 75W-90 COULD NOT be used.
Any suggestions on either a brand/location to buy the API GL-4 fluid or thoughts on using the GL-5? Also want to know how much of the fluid is required? The store clerk mentioned 10 quarts! But that seems high.
Thanks.
Do not put GL-5 oil in the transmissions. That's for the diff's.
If you can't find 75w90, try 80w90, it's more common, but make sure it's gl-4.
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use a strong pressure washer to strip it off.
If it's peeling off, don't spend time worrying about stopping it. It wasn't applied properly in the first place. Every time you get a stone chip it will peel.
Better if you want to fix it, to strip down as much as you can and get a body shop to properly prep the color coat and respray a clear coat.
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Now, can someone tell me the largest tires I can fit on my stock rig?
It depends on if you are willing to hack up your fenders or not. You can probably stuff 34's in there with some modification, but if you don't want to take a sawsall to your truck, you better stick with 155/80R13's.
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Really?? REALLY?! Knees are not fun. Playing slice and dice around the tendons on the back of your knees, and ankles is NO picnic. Believe me, I could go on...
Please... go on......
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Parts box sticker
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lol
The distance between the lower spring pocket on the strut and the spindle mount is fixed. It will never change. If the tire clears the strut at normal height, it will be the exact same distance at all times during front suspension travel.
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It's weird cause I took the wiper bottle out of the truck and found the front pump is leaking from the bottom so I took it apart and put some silicone around the edge, but even with the leak when I hooked the pump up to my power supply in my shed it pumped fine, same with the rear pump, I put the tube into a cup of water and it worked fine, so when I put the bottle back in the truck neither one works, so that leads me to believe there is a problem with one of the tubes.
Compressed air at low PSI into line will push the dirt through.
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Picked up my steel today... Almost ready....
how to remove window tint glue?
in General Forums
Posted
Agreed. WD40 works great. Spray it on, let it soak, then just wipe it off.
Then use windex to clean up the oil residue.