morpheus
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Posts posted by morpheus
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we did 2 of them today, one had over 200,000km on it, they were both fine.
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WORD OF WARNING!
We have reviewed the complete inspection proceedure, and if the vehicle is found to have a certain spot weld broken, or excessive rust, you will
lose your vehicle
It will be deemed "unsafe" to drive, and must stay at the dealership. You will be provided with a rental car, and nissan will pay for the rental. They will then contact you at a later date for what sounds like a "buy out" of your truck.
Keep this in mind if you want to schedule to have this inspection completed.
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Got a little more information.
We are now able to inspect the affected vehicles.
If there's any "scab rust" or perforation in the driver wheel well, the vehicle is not repairable, and we are to hold the vehicle at the dealership and provide the owner with a rental vehicle until furthur notice.
There are 3 areas to inspect spot welds, if the welds are broken in one specific area, the vehicle is repairable, but not driveable, we are to provide the owner with a rental vehicle until furthur notice.
If the welds are broken in one of the other 2 places, the vehicle is repairable, and is driveable, and we are to return the vehicle to the owner and tell them repair information will be provided in the near future.
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370z ain't a Pathfinder/QX4
It's the closest I could come to participating in the thread! lol.
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had a 2011 370z today with around 15 codes.... cause.... dead battery...
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Laws are different from state to state and province to province.
Here in ontario, if you trade in a car to a dealership, you are NOT required to disclose anything to the dealership. The dealership that re-sells that car MUST disclose any issues found on the car upon resell.
example. You are in an accident with the car, have it fixed. When you trade in the car, you don't need to tell them about the accident, even if you are directly asked about it. When the deler goes to re-sell it, and find out on a car-fax report that there was an accident, they must by law tell the next buyer that the car was in an accident.
If it's a private sale, the law changed in 2010 (I believe) that you must disclose any issues to a new buyer.
Now, if we were talking about the same accident as above, there would be proof, ie: the date of the accident on the carproof. When it comes to a waterpump or radiator, the answer "I didn't know at the time of sale" would cover you and there would be nothing they could do.
Now, from the standpoint of "would you personally tell someone", I would either price the vehicle accordingly, or dislose it.
If the vehicle was worth $5000 in mint shape, but needs $1500 worth of repairs, and you only ask $3500 for it, then maybe not, but if you're asking $5000, then yes I would.
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Another item to inspect is the input bearing in the front differential.
Grab the front drive shaft, and push up and down on it to check for movement in the flange of the diff.
Minimal movement is ok, excessive movement is not.
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Subject: 1996-2004 Nissan Pathfinder Front Strut Tower Corrosion Voluntary Safety Recall Campaign
Attention: Dealer Principals, Sales, Parts and Service Managers
***** Corporate Statement *****
“Nissan will be conducting a Voluntary Safety Recall Campaign to inspect the front
strut tower housings on Model Year 1996-2004 Nissan Pathfinder and 1997-2003
Infiniti QX4 vehicles in Canada.
In certain rare instances, in areas where heavy concentrations of road salt are used in the winter, the front strut tower housing on the potentially affected vehicles can develop corrosion that may cause weakening of the seams on the edge of the housing and, over time, it may lead to strut tower damage. This may allow portions of the strut tower to come in contact with the steering column. This condition is expected to create a grinding noise and increase the steering effort which should alert the driver to the existence of a problem. However, if this condition is ignored, it could in extreme cases lead to damage to the steering column and potential loss of steering.
Nissan will begin contacting owners of potentially affected vehicles in Canada in mid-May to advise them about this campaign. Nissan is committed to a high level of customer safety, service and satisfaction and is working with dealers to promptly address this issue.”
***** Campaign Details *****
Nissan will alert the owners of potentially affected vehicles in mid-May to advise them of the issue and to offer an immediate inspection if the customer believes their vehicle is affected by this condition. If necessary, Nissan will arrange to provide an appropriate remedy.
Second, Nissan will issue a second owner notification once the remedy is fully
developed advising all owners of the subject vehicles to have their vehicles inspected and
remedied. The dealers will inspect the strut housing and if no or only slight surface corrosion
is present, an anti-corrosion sealant will be applied. If moderate corrosion is present, resin
patches will be applied in addition to the sealant. If there is evidence of more significant
corrosion, a metal reinforcement plate will be used to reinforce the strut housing assembly.
In addition to the campaign remedy, and in the interest of customer satisfaction, owners of
similar vehicles that are not subject to this recall because they were originally sold in and are registered in states where corrosion causing this issue is unlikely to occur will receive a
courtesy notification. For those customers wishing to have their vehicles inspected, the strut housing will be inspected and repaired, if necessary, in the same manner as described above.
***** Vehicle Identification *****
Nissan Online Applications (NOA) is not yet activated for this campaign, and will be visible by 04/29/2011.
***** Repair Instructions *****
A Voluntary Safety Recall Campaign bulletin including initial inspection instructions and claims information is currently under development. A campaign update will be sent to advise dealers when the bulletin will be available on ASIST and the dealer portal, www.nnanet.com.
***** Parts Availability *****
The campaign remedy is being developed. A campaign update will be provided as soon as the remedy plan is finalized.
***** Dealer Responsibility *****
It is the dealer’s responsibility to check NOA – Campaign I.D. R175/R1101 on the 1996-2004 Nissan Pathfinder, for the campaign status on each vehicle falling within the range of this voluntary safety recall campaign which for any reason enters the service department. This includes vehicles purchased from private parties or presented by transient (tourist) owners and vehicles in dealer inventory. If an affected VIN was part of a dealer trade, the letter associated with that VIN should be forwarded to the appropriate dealer for service completion.
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*snort*
You have a 50/50 chance if you offer to pay in diapers. Unused...
B
does that mean 70/30 if used?
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There's also a function on facebook called "download all my content" where they take everything you have, pics, videos, etc.. and put it all into a zip file and let you download it. Then you can grab the video out of the zipfile.
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I've seen it a few times on R50's.
As long as it's repaired before the complete strut comes loose from the body and causes catistrophic failure, it's usually around $800 to fix one side, or $1500 to repair both sides. That's at full pop retail. If you have a friend that can do welding, then I'm sure it can be done for substantially less.
After the repairs are complete, a complete alignment should be completed to make sure the front setup is done correctly.
Before the vehicle is repaired, it is unsafe to drive, and certainly would not pass any type of safety inspection.
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It wasn't a recall (remember recalls are for safety items). It was released as a TSB to use the clamps and channels.
Periodically you can take the clamps and channels off and put some more muffler cement in the channels and reclamp them.
Not the best fix they've come up with, but it does work, not permently like a weld or a complete pipe weld/job, but it works.
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they are resonators.
If you've got access to a welder, grinding the welds and re-welding is the best way to go.
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Although it's not installed yet, I have a snorkel for the X.
I didn't get it so I could run water up 1/2 to the windshield, I got it so I didn't have to worry about sucking water, just worry about driving.
I soaked an air filter in the R50 last year. Just a little deeper and I could have sucked in enough to hydrolock the motor.
The electronics can short out, the alternator can fry, the starter can die. I can change all those on the side of the trail.
If I hydrolock a motor, I ain't fixing that on the side of the trail.
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2H to 4H you can shift at practically any speed, they just don't recommend doing it at higher speeds.
from 4H to 4L you are shifting to a completely different gear ratio, so not only do you have to be stopped, but there can't be any strain on the driveline.
IE: if you are parked on a hill, and try to shift it, it won't go, unless you force it and it grinds.
you can shift it if you are on a perfectly level spot, there is no strain on the driveline.
If you have it in neutral, it doesn't matter if you are on a hill, there is no strain, it will shift smoothly.
So rule of thumb, always be in neutral when shifting from 4H to 4L, including if you shift all the way from 2H to 4L
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it's a round plug, and you'd need an adaptor like above.
if you don't have it, either someone has modified it previously, or maybe your vehicle didn't have the antenna in the windshield from factory, and someone replaced the windshield and put the wrong one in.
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try swapping the bulb
HID bulbs draw approx 5 amps each, no way you need that big a fuse.
make sure you didnt pinch any wiring either.
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It is indeed called the "diversity antenna"
it is used to boost the signals, mostly where you would experience "signal bounce" as in the downtown core where there's a lot of buildings.
When you replace your factory deck with an aftermarket one, you'll notice that the antenna plug is round with 2 wires that go into it. one for each antenna, you need an adaptor to go from 2 to one.
they work together, but will work on their own just as well. the windshield one would not pick up as good a signal as the fender one.
if your power antenna is dead, and you can hear the motor running, then you can just buy the mast portion seperatly, and they're fairly inexpensive, and easy to install.
If your motor is dead too, then you can replace the complete antenna with a cheaper fixed mount one, just need to splice the antenna wiring.
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lol, i sent him the pic right after the install.
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if designers didn't try different things, then our cars would still look like this:
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As said above, it depends on what happened to the vehicle.
invest in a carfax report if you're really interested in it, and find out what was damaged.
Definatly get the vehicle inspected by an independent mechanic.
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if you have 15 codes stored in your system, then you should either look at the codes and see which ones pertain to the symptom you are experiencing. If any or all of them could be causing it, then most likely what has haappened is one part or one system has malfunctioned, and a cascade of failures have occoured becuse the first system isn't working.
If you've got a bad hiccup, or lag in acceleration for example, driving it like that can cause codes in the transmission computer for hard shift. It's no that there's anything wrong in the transmission, it's just a concequence of the original failure.
Sometimes the only way to diagnose it properly is to completely clear all the codes, and then drive it untill the first code comes up, and that will tell you what system, or "circuit" you're looking at.
you are correct that the code doens't tell you what's wrong, but if you've got a running problem, and the code is for an o2 sensor, starting by replacing plugs, cap rotor and wires will just waste your money, and you'll still have the problem with the o2 sensor.
The code tells you what system is causing the failure, then you have to test the components in that system to find the failure.
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Check for a rust hole in the wheel well under where the feet would rest. I've seen a rust hole right through in that area, and the tire throws water right there.
Another "whats this" question!
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
You found the flux capacitor!
dropping resistor = controls shift points in automatic transmission. Old school way of doing it before they started using computers to do it.