Bart68

Ours has new factory replacement adj. shocks that previous owner had just put on but if I were to change them I'd go with a good ride Gas shock. We don't do much off roading in it and Rancho's stiffin things up to much.

I drive 1100km's a day in a 2006 Toyota Corolla two days per week and one day per week in a 94 Ford Ranger with a 4.0 and here is what I have done to keep my milage at it's peek. 2006 Corolla : 37psi in each tire, new air filter when the old one gets dirty and keep up on the oil changes but when I have hit 53 mpg (Canadian gallon) why would you do much to try and improve it? Now my Ranger's a little bit of a gas pig like the Pathfinder so heres what I did to change my milage from 24.5 to 27.2 mpg. First I went from 225/70 r14's to 215/75 15's and I run them at 40psi because the less contact with the road the better, then I had the big muffler taken off and replaced by a Blue Bottle but left the cat in. I got ahold of some Taylor Pro Racing wires and Bosch Platinum plugs and a new paper filter. I keep my truck at the speed limit and never slow down on the highway unless I have to. Oh and make sure your fuel filter is new, it helps with power and more efficient power means better mpg. BUT the biggist thing is make sure your thermostat is good and the rad cap as well, your truck needs to run at the right temp. so the comp. isn't trying to choke it by adding more fuel for a colder engine.

I was wondering if a person took the Dash out of a SE with all the gauges would it not just plug into the XE spot and work? In my wifes 88 Hardbody I took the stock dash out because it had nothing but a fuel gauge and a speedo and switched it up to a full load one from a newer pickup and everything worked including the tach and the clock and all the gauges worked like the truck came from the factory that way.

My SE has black bumpers, grill actually it has no chrome at all. I do have LSD, Sunroof, Sport Susp. and such but no leather or heated mirrors or auto climate control. Oh and I bought this one because there was no chrome, I think it looks Sexy this way..

Just the wife, she's a good hard worker and she can find a stick or somthin to dig the truck out with..

O.K. so I went to the wreckers and pulled one from a 98 Pathfinder and stuck into a 94 pathfinder and here are the problems I came up with. A little wide (about the same as the JGC. console. The auto shifter needs to go ahead a couple of inches and just a bit over to the passenger side. The relocation of the E-brake handle just like the JGC. Other than not knowing if it's possible to relocate the shifter it looks like it would be a great fit and it would look good. PLMK if someone out there has relocated the Auto trans shifter in their Pathfinder.

Actually I did and I can't find one that talks about that application.

I myself think they both have thier ups and downs off/on road. I like them both and it doesn't make or break my decision on a car/truck/suv when I'm buying it I just want the best vehicle for my money.

That is my only complaint is the lack of cup holders... I got no place for my Timmies coffee...

I was at one of the local auto wreckers and I was looking a console from a 98 Pathfinder with cup holders and I was wondering if anyone has done this? I know that the ebrake has to be moved over but what about the auto shifter? Do I need to rig in the one from the 98 or will the one from my 91 work and not leave big gaps? It really blows not having a place for my Timmies coffee... I have read the posts about the Jeep console but I have the auto and I don't want the big ugly gap.

LMAO... What you didn't have your tip rust protected from the dealer when it was new?

See the way you have it shown is WAY better than the way we did it and yes we had a less than perfect welder actually it was just a buzz box so if you have a good mig you would probably stand a much better chance at it not cracking on you. But still you have a ton of work in front of you for fabbing up all the extension pieces that you will need. Good luck on it and keep us posted with your progress.

It was the frame that cracked on either sides of the weld, not the mounts or the welds but the frame couldn't take the added stress, maybe if a person adds extra plates and then welds to those to give it more of a footing.

I have 30x9.50's on it right now but I'm looking for 31x10.50's that it should have with it..

It may sound like a ridgid lift on paper but trust me it's not, I helped a Buddy put a 5 inch body lift in his 66 Bronco very much the way you just described it and it was a bad idea. We lengthened the steering colum, shifters, lowered the rad, built new bumpers to cover the huge gap, we made gap hiders for the frame to body space and just a whole lot more and it didn't look to bad.... BUT after a mild off road trip with only average amount of flexing and just a couple of nasty mud holes we went back to his place to wash out under the Bronco and re-tourque everything. FOUR of the mounts were it was welded to frame had cracked and the back 2 were almost ready to fall out on either side of our welds it wasn't the welds that were breaking it was the frame that was never designed for that type of a lift. We then proceeded to remove that frame and put a whole new frame under it with a proper body lift. Oh and we used the proper body bushings with the 5 inch lift. Maybe we did something wrong in our fabrication but I myself will never do something like that again.