alexrex20

this is the color i want to paint my R50. what do y'all think?

i got mine from amazon for $126 shipped. and i'm not in the "trade."

since post count is obviously your standard for knowledge, it makes sense that you wouldn't know what you're talking about - what with only 125 posts. laxman has a 3.3L not a 3.5L. but engine size notwithstanding, a simple heat shield isn't going to do much to keep the charge air nice and cold. if it's in the engine compartment (shielded or not), it's going to be roughly the same damn temperature. the only way you'll see a noticeable drop in IAT is if you pull in air from in front of the radiator, or down low in the fender/wheel well outside of the engine bay. of course, you would know this because i'm sure you sit on your computer all day and measure our post cocks against your own.

not as clean as mine btw, where did you get the filter and how much? is it a kit designed specifically for our truck? and who wants my K&N drop-in (free+shipping) if i get a new filter?

i agree with Pezzy. my rear hitch takes all the impacts in stride, and i've learned to brace myself for and anticipate the crunch and thunk. the only damage i've ever had was the 4-pin connector getting smashed because it was dangling too low. all the hits don't seem to have affected the receiver hitch in the slightest bit. the clearance issues notwithstanding, there's still the problem of cost. if you can get a used receiver for dirt cheap, then i guess it may be worth it to you. i think they bolt on via 6 or 8 bolts, at two points on the 'frame,' making the hitch a very secure and sturdy recovery point. it just seems a bit overkill to me to buy a receiver for the sole purpose of a rear recovery point. i know there are the factory slots in the frame which i'm sure are intended for tie-down purposes only, because they are higher up than the bumper and would surely cause the strap/chain to apply pressure on it. i do have bolt-on plates with slots in them, which are actually blocked by the receiver hitch; i think they are the factory rear tow and/or recovery(?) points. if you were going to spend the money on a receiver hitch for the sole purpose of rear recovery, may i suggest you get a custom tow bar fabricated? it could probably be done for the same cost or a fraction of it, and wouldn't necessarily have to rob that much of your rear clearance (if you don't include the actual receiver, just a recovery point for a shackle or D-ring). you would just need some square tubing or even C-channel or angle iron, and some heavy-gauge steel plate. if you knew how to weld and had a welder/cutter, all it would cost you is that of materials...

i wouldn't get a receiver hitch simply for a recovery point. all the designs that fit our Pathfinder stick out a ridiculous amount and greatly diminish your departure angle. if you do not tow, and do not plan on towing, but you do go wheeling, i strongly discourage you from getting a receiver hitch. i prefer closed recovery points. it gets rid of that hassle of making sure the strap does not slip/fall off in between tugs. closed recovery point + shackle = best setup, imo.

white would look stupid

for the rear, i just put the recovery strap directly into the receiver and use a grade-8 bolt to hold it in place (instead of the normal hitch pin). if you don't have a receiver you could probably just get a generic recovery hook/eyelet, but i'm not really sure there's anywhere to properly mount it; we don't really have a frame to mount anything to... as for the front, i can give you the two recovery points that i removed when i installed my ARB bumper. they mount to the front subframe via 3 big bolts (in preexisting holes which are also pre-tapped), and are pretty sturdy. i've been yanked out a few times by these.

those are 18s? anyway, looks great. i have 16in american racing Chamber (also Teflon). i think i would have gotten the ones you got, if i knew they existed!

they will fit in any factory R50 wheel. in fact, they'll fit in any wheel that fits on an R50 because for an aftermarket wheel to fit, it must clear the drive flange, which is the same diameter as the manual hub.

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mine is painted flat black

hate to bump an old thread, but does the AC front skid work with an ARB bumper on the R50?

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sorry to bump an old thread, but do you have any pics of how you mounted the GE lights? i really don't want to spend $350 on driving lights...

Fourtheded, but only the part about the fluid flush. most likely, it's just moisture and/or air in the system.

pete, here's to hoping our bumpers get here before Christmas!

that is bad news indeed. does anyone know if the '00 model R50 also has a tcase pump driven by the front drive shafts?

did you still need that center cap? i have some spares that came off a 2000 (3.3L), but i'm pretty sure my wheels are different than yours...

snap-on is always expensive

who would've thought a professional would have so much time that they could be an advanced DIYer when it comes to their vehicle? not me.

it's not a racecar. if your engine is basically stock, use OE plugs and OE (or equivalent) plug wires. don't buy into the hype.

lol, looks like you need that front bumper now more than ever!

i wish i could weld.

i tried emailing 4wheelparts and ARB last week, and still have not gotten a reply. but it is the weekend, i guess... do you have any updates, or are our bumpers still scheduled to get here mid/late august?