fleurys

I did a few research and if it was the rear seal, I would have tell you to try it out yourself since you do not have to remove the trans... Now according to your description of the problem, it's not the rear but the front. Everywhere, I read, they say you'll have to remove the trans. Now according to the 94 fsm ( i know you have a 91, but I assumed it would be similar), here's the list of things to do, to remove the trans.: Now I would say to you, if you are up to these task, then I would suggest you remove the trans, buy the seal kit, then bring it to a trans shop. This would be the best way to save a lot of money and still have a perfect job done. They just won't make any money on parts or remove time.... Do you have the fsm to help you with this ??

Hey Beastpath... I don't know your financial situation nor your freetime, b ut are you really considering a manual trans swap to your automatic because you have a seal that is leaking ??!!! I mean, You're obviously in for some long hours and surprises as you go along... what is so wrong with your auto tranny that you do not like? Have alook here : http://www.importdrivetrain.com/autotransp...an_truck_id.htm get a rebuild kit and be done with it and have a trans like new .... I have an auto tranny and and would not change an thing on the trail... Hope you don't mind my 2 cents....

get them from a resident at npora (Daddy Rim) : http://www.nx4industries.com/ call him or send him a pm here and he'll answer all your questions..

I have never changed a trans in my life but for that kind of dough, I would put the thing on jackstands and get to it.... Before taking another trans (with potentially other problems) I would surely check at a transmission rebuild place if rebuild kit exists etc... 2400$ !!! He is out of his mind !

Obviously a trans seal...You could put some products to help make the seal swell depending of the size of your "pool" of transmission fluid....but It would probably just delayed a more catastrophic failure.... I say time to remove the trans and seal changing.... :-( bummer..

definitely interressted when I put the 33's.... next spring... looking for 1" spacer too for the rear...Then with these, like you said, I would fix the off-center at the back that has been causing me some headaches with the flexing in the rear front fender... Very nice work,... will the tube have some kind of treatment or paint or anything that would prevent/inhebit the rust, or we have to finish them ourselves ??

I do not hear it....but I have since bought the hilift neoprene cover that keeps everything snug..it surely helps http://www.hi-lift.com/accessories/jack-cover.html

good question... I guess you would have your answer if you called rancho... But at least you knew about it..So that's all I was worried about... Maybe someone who sells shocks could chime in... Would dried up oil seal be a possibility on old shocks that were sitting on a shelf for many month, say a year?? I like my rs999010xl very much but they are prone to more failure that I thought. When ordering I did received one that was DOA and now after a few trails, they still work flawlessly but it seems that the firmness dial is shot. I can barely turn it anymore and they are only a few months old... They have seen mud and water but I was still expecting more from them... Needless to say after they are shot, i'm switching to bilstein...

You got a good deal because you just ordered discontinued shocks... this part number is the old one... the nes ones are rs999010xl .... You're getting shocks that have been sitting on the shelf for pretty long now.....get the new ones if it's not too late... For the kyb, you have to get the boot separately...they don't come with it.

Not really... each time we here about cv failure, it's actually the boot that let go..not the cv itself... Unless you gun it in reverse locked while turning (sorry gpg..that one was too easy hahaha), the cv's are strong....just the boot are crap... I will eventually finish rebuiding my second set with dorman boots and see how they resist...but i'm actively looking for having boot custom made with a more plastic/rubber like material...a bit like you see on a pinzgauer... S

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/IEC-I-81...=700+4294907499 should say 81260 on your box for 2 bolts or 35420 if you bought a box for 1 bolt

Do not remove the inner plastic !!! This is all that protects you from an hydrolock if you go too aggressive in a small water hole...By remove this, you just created a direct path for the water to enter the air box... You basically have to cut a bit (1 inch) of bumper at the bottom front and you push forward the inner plastic fender to it's new place. I'll try to take pictures of mine...

my opinion....get the tool or make one and torque it to spec... you'll save yourself money (because of premature failure $ andyou'll sleep better). Do it once, do it good...

You do not have to fully remove it... Mine was done exactly like that.... used a "fork" bar to remove the old one while the cv was slided. 30 minutes per side this way if you have a lift and a buddy to keep the cv slided and the hub assembly straight while you pry out the balljoint. Happy wrenching

Radio is cobra 75wxst .. everything is included in the hand and I had a bullbar mount fabed up in SS for the antenna mount.

I'm no mechanic or body shop guy, but I say you're playing with your life each time you enter the highway with this... If it lets go at 65mph, you'll probably regret it.... If it's your daily, I say rent a car for a week, and have you frame reboxed or solidified by a good 'soudeur' (don't know the word for the person who 'solder' ?) S.

sad...

According to the description, these are 2 different parts replacing 2 different bushings for the front. One set is for the front part , the other the back part of the link... First product : These bushings are for the lower control arms on your FRONT suspension. They go in the front part of the lower control arm second product : Bushings fit in the rear part of the lower control arm.

The upper plate has an arrow that you must align with the bottom plate (which has a v notch and the L or R letter on the other plate on top of the upper plate)... You can barely see, but if you look carefully, you see the V notch at the bottom and the arrow of the top plate... All this needs to be well aligned

I think other people have been having issues with the rancho struts...(gpg)?? I personnaly run the GR2 from KYB and they work , up to now , flawlessly... When you mounted the coils, did you pay attention to align the marks on the lower and upper seat ? It's a fact that the strut will not prevent the coil from extending...it's not their purpose...so the fact that they spring back up does not tell me right away that they are bad (but I could be wrong since I do not own the rancho struts). Their job is to absorb the impact going downward... The coil's job is to push back the weight up... It is possible that you suffer from the toping-out symptom more than the others if you do not have any weight at the front... I know I have the nissan bullbar in front and I have to be very gentle when going over speed bump.. (have the coils for 4 months now)... I would really check if your aligment marks were properly aligned...

Delrin is extremely hard and tuff. If I'm not mistaken, there is already spacers for other truck/model being made with this... I'm thinking daystar and others... If you can find 1" thick piece of delrin, I say do it... S

whoooaaaa !!! that's a hit !!!

I know there is one that fits... I had to press fit it using a vise... Take one that the bolt will fit tight and that it is a little bigger than the bushing hole...

Thanks.. I will re-check this because when I turned on the backside, The whole plastic assembly at the backside (which is around the metal socket) was turning but nothing was releasing.... Don't remember seing just a ring...