beastpath
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Posts posted by beastpath
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Sorry to highjack the thread, but anyone knows where I can get VG33 cylinder heads (that's what I need to do make my VG30 to VG33 right?) and probably will be able to ship them to Chile? I didn't find any at ebay..
No, that is not what you need to make a VG33. VG33 is a different engine. If you want more explanation please start a new thread as this one is about this sweet turbo setup.
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vg33 with cams will do around 200hp NA (turbo would be amazing) and the big draw is that you dont have to "make it fit" - however no point in any engine swap unless you have a blown motor or a lot of spare cash.
did you upgrade your cams on this turbo build? If not, why not?
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Rugged Rocks Offroad is not the same as Rocky Road Outfitters.
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Yeah, try pushing the shifter down and then back like suggested above.
If your tcase is really busted I have a spare you can have for reeeaaallly cheap.
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Thanks for pointing that out but the fuel rails are $180. For $40 more ($220 total) I can get 6 side feed STi injectors that fit in the factory fuel rails.
Excellent man. Can you get a pic of those injectors in the factory rails for us? What flow rate are the STi injectors at?
Also will you have to use a spacer for them to fit in the plenum as they have a longer end?
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Here's an option for you: VG30 Fuel Rails
They make it so you can use other OE injectors; They recommend Mazda RX7 injectors.
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I thought so. What I ended up doing was taking the gear selection switch off the side of the tranny. Turned it to park and left it all attachted. Now I have my anti theft device and a working engine. Now I just gotta finish rebuilding it and bolt it on knowing that everything should just work. SWEEEEEEETT
whats the difference between the two. Any change in fuel maps or anything to do with making more power or is it just the stuff to control the auto? I'm thinking I'll keep one to work with nistune with and have the other to keep so when I blow up my tuned one I have a backup.
I dont think there is any change in the fuel maps or anything. It didnt feel any more or less powerful.
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ok man
the plug on the left of the picture where the brown and black wires come out is what you need to splice together. I honestly just intertwined the wires and then wrapped electrical tape around them as I was supposed to hook it all up to the safety switch etc - but never got around to that.
Does that help?
You dont need to swap out ECUs from auto to manual - if you were going manual to auto then you would.
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Hey man,
I can get a pic of the wire you need to join together to jump it - but I wont be able to get it till a bit later.
It is a thick brown wire with a thin yellow band on it if I remember correctly. I Think both ends are attached to one of the harnesses which are on the passenger side engine compartment. If you solder them together it will work, but you could also rig it to go to the Neutral safety, and maybe have a manual switch as a anti-theft (my plans eventually lol).
Get that pic as soon as i can
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Or you can buy adjustable links at rugged rocks offroad.
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Yeah, just replace the whole thing. Usually they have lifetime warranties so if it breaks you get the replacement for free.
manual hubs make it easier since you can lock one side to allow you to get torque on the opposite side's axle nuts. There is a good thread on here somewhere that i will try to find
I wish I had thought of that. I ended up jamming it with a spare towhook.
What the hell are you talking about.
hahaha, ah the eloquence of truth.
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Ugh, but if this is the case why did I just put new pistons in with small cutouts. Seems like it would be great to just get bigger cutouts and solve this interference problem with minimal to no downside?
i know right?
youll get slightly less compression with the deeper cutouts, which i assume would mean slightly less power. IDK if it would be significant though.
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its because the quest/mercury pistons have deeper grooves cut into them. look at Nissannuts webpage about his vg33 swap and he has a side by side shot of the quest vg33, regular vg33 and vg30 pistons.
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Man, your exhaust tick is worse than mine! Didn't think that was possible, lol.
Good job!!
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Vengeful I'm with you on the Defender 110, except I'd like a 110 double cab with pickup bed, a 300Tdi conversion and full expedition setup etc.
My dream sports car would have to be the Aston Martin DB9 - nothing else quite as beautiful out there.
I'd also love a 6 speed 300zx with a VG33 bottom end (would compliment the Pathfinder).
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I don't know much about VG30i (but I did rebuild a VG30E stock) but I think it's common to put VG33 heads on VG30 blocks? Possibly boring the cylinders to make a "VG34". There are also some alternative cams available, or you could get a shop to grind some to your specifications. My 2 cents.
Actually you can't bore a VG30 into a VG34. What you are thinking is of people taking a VG33 long block and boring it over and using qh45 pistons and the VG30 crank. Or simply just the VG33 long block with the VG30 crank. Either way will give some good gains.
However this is difficult with the VG30i fuel injection system as it only has 2 injectors.
If you were to rewire for the VG30E it would be a lot more work.
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Wow, a broken head bolt? How did that happen.
There is a lot of info on upgrades all over the forum that you could look up.
To get you started though there are cam upgrades available from 4x4parts.com, schneider racing and jim wolf. That should add 5-10% to your setup
Without reboring the block or upgrading to a VG33 block the only other useful engine mods would be an air intake, headers, and a cat-back system. Each of these will probably add 5% to your setup.
Obviously combined their usefulness will increase as the components will be working together.
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Added Calmini Diff guard.
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Been there a few times. It depends what you do, as was said. If you stay near main road and only go off ways a little you'll be fine. One trip I went out of valley via backroad and thrashed my tranny pan. It was leaking [slowly thankfully] for next 200 miles home. Had to stop at gas station every 50 miles and tansfuse fresh transmission fluid to keep reservoir full. After that I got skid plates from front all the way back to drive shft - no problems on many trips since !
Good Luck
glenn
Pics please of your skids! And where did you get them fabbed up?
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awesome! keep up the good work!
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Thats awesome!
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Garage quoted me 8-900 for my head gasket minimum. I did it myself for 200 + cos of some tools, so maybe 300, and leaned a hell of a lot about the engine. I got lucky and caught it in the early stages, but even if it is only doing it a tiny bit I wouldn't run the engine as it could ruin your bottom end.
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Yeah its all down to permits and state regs. In AZ for example you can buy real silencers if you have the correct license and want to pay about 3 grand to buy it. Thereafter I believe you have to pay a hefty fee (in the thousands I have heard) per year to keep your permits up to date.
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How can you balance a crank with rods and pistons on it anyway?
LOL, they dont attach the rods and pistons, they attach weights in the rod journals to simulate the weight. You should also attach the flywheel etc.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2008/04/RotatingAssembly/
Who wants a better Cat? Magnaflow cats $75
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
So if i have a 2.25" or 2.5"exhaust setup, what is the point in getting a direct fit cat that is only 2"?
Wouldn't it make more sense to get one that matches the rest of the exhaust and weld flanges to it?