beastpath

Most people here recommend running Mobil 1 synthetic. 5w-30 works just fine, although some people do run 10w-30. The concern on older vehicles is that it will start leaks as it tends to clean up deposits in the engine.

I think you are right OSR, the design must have changed. JB, i must be missing something, how do you slide the highlift out if the bolts are welded in? also what is the towing capacity of the bumper?

there is a member selling ported/polished 3.3 heads with stage one cams in the classifieds section.

doesnt the MPFI VG30 have more airflow than it needs anyway? I thought gains from a cone filter were minimal. I see where you are going though dowser and the diesel cover does look like it could work, or be modified to work.

that rear bumper does look nice. i like how it conforms to the body perfectly. By the way Jb, how did you attach your hilift to the carrier?

one dent is small and uncreased. the other is about palm sized and has a crease.

hate to disagree but i put rainx on before going up to the snow country a couple of weeks ago and it worked great. i also got new wiper blades though, so maybe they canceled each other out..

Anyone know of a good way to remove dents on the outside door paneling? I tried the liquid oxygen/heat method, but it didn't work. I'd rather not drill small holes into my car. Do the suction cup things work at all?

Yeah, I really like their multi-carrier system (cept I would get just the bumper portion as I already have the spare tire rack). The bad reviews that I have read have put me off for the moment though.

vacuum leak maybe

was it quiet when just cruising? as in, rpms are steady, but you dont have pressure on the accelerator.

so it was for sure the injectors? because if it was just a case of putting more fuel in it would tick when revving in park the reason I'm asking is I have a loud ticking now that sounds similar to what you have described. i was thinking it was an exhaust tick though.

JY's usually have some, or you could try people parting out on craigslist. If you do find one make sure its from a 90 or newer vehicle - ill find the tranny code for you when I get home. The reason is the newer ones have better gear ratios. If you get one, hopefully I will be done with my AT to MT writeup.

yep, that was koveman and I. actually, we lifted the transfercase up and out, but dropped the tranny. that way we didnt have to remove the torsion bars. doing it the proper way does require the removal of the tbars and crossmember. a tranny jack will be your best friend too. have you thought about an auto to manual swap? or are you going to keep it auto?

heres the link to the ebay set adam: Pathfinder Cylinder Lock set

an external cooler has worked for many members here, and is required by the instruction manuals for the auto shift kits and rebuild kits. It has fixed some peoples problems, but not everyone's. My tranny had been flushed regularly, the fluid was still fairly reddish and not burnt, and it was not having shifting problems. I figured adding the cooler would just help it live longer, but it in fact failed 2 months after I put the external cooler on. I honestly don't believe this was because of the cooler though. I'm sure there must have been a problem before which I did not recognize and adding the cooler could not save the tranny. I didnt have a whine, or weird shifting until 2 days before it blew, so I dont think there is any guaranteed way of saying if yours is about to die or not. However, the whine usually is symbolic of this. Lots of people have stretched their transmissions lives by putting on the cooler. And for 45 bucks or so, its worth the try.

just to end this thread, the tick ended up being the lifters on the passenger side. i replaced them and they are nice and quiet now.

the actual metal part on the tumbler snapped/was shorn off. ill take a pic when I take them out.

yeah, i think ill get the 2 new front locks and get them re-keyed - make life a little easier for me. then next time i'm at the JY ill pick up a few lock cylinders for spares Thanks guys.

oh, shweet. i didnt know they could do that!

lol. must be nice. i've never seen a key in a jy vehicle.

where would I get the key from a junkyard?

My drivers side cylinder lock decided to snap on me the other day so I need to replace it. The passenger side has been broken for a while. I found an aftermarket set of just the two door locks online for 40 bucks, or nissan sells the complete set including the ignition, rear hatch, door locks, and glove compartment for around 200. I'm thinking I might just go for the cheaper option and use two keys for a while. What do you guys think? Also,I know I saw a WD21 on cardomain with some kind of "security locks" but IDK if those are just B$. Anyone heard of any other options out there?

mine has the assist spring but not the return spring also. It just goes back up from pressure in the lines. make sure none of the connectors are leaking also.

id like heated seats because I HATE using the heater and having hot air blown on me.