vanuatoo

Thanks for the replies. Now I'm confident that no sealant is required, even Teflon tape

Hello, I'm going to change fluids in Front/Read diffs and Transfer Case. Truck is 10 years old, has 77000 miles (I bought when it was 5, 44500 miles) on it and I beleive those fluids has never been changed. I'm going to use http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Other_Products/Mobilube_HD_Plus_80W-90.aspx in diffs and Matic D in transfer case. When looking in factory manuals, I've noticed that you have to apply Thread Sealant to plugs for front diff and transfer case. I've not bought OE sealant but got http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-56521-Performance-Thread-Sealant/dp/B000HBM72Q as an alternative (indicated in manual) But When I've looked at rear diff illustration there is no indication to use thread sealant for plugs. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/2003_Pathfinder/ax.pdf Page ax-20 Could you confirm that sealant is not needed for rear diff plugs and you just take them out and put back on?

Could you please post a link to the topic?

Hello, I've 2003 Pathfinder SE 4x4 with 75,000 miles. I'm thinking about changing spark plugs. I've searched the forum but could not find D.I.Y thread for VQ35DE. I've factory manual and it should not be hard, just one question: Which spark plug socket to use? I've 1/2 inch drive socket set and ratchet but as I understand it's a special socket. Manual says 16mm one. Is this one good? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A32UHY4/ref=as_li_tf_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=usa-product-y9374-20&link_code=as3&camp=211189&creative=373489&creativeASIN=B00A32UHY4

What fluid should I use to clean IACV?

74K Miles, 2003 SE 4x4

I've cleaned MAF today. Just used ordinary Torx (not Tamper-Proof) T20 and 1/4 ratchet. The hardest part was to remove MAF from the housing, I've used small flat screwdriver. I've not sprayed the cleaner on the upper 2 wires, just the bottom one and it looked clean before procedure. Problem is not solved. Car still has the same symptoms as WOT described. What else should I try next?

I'm going to change them at 105,000 (I guess I will hit that mileage in 3 years when vehicle is 12 years old) Just wanted to know if original spark plugs will last that long.

A friend of mine has 2001 pathy and he wants to change the rear diff fluid. Owners Manual says to request recommended oil from the Dealer. Which oil should be used for rear limited slip differential gear oil change?

Hello, I've got 2003 SE 4wd with 71,000 miles. I guess spark plugs has not been changed in this vehicle because when I bought it in 2008 car had 44,000 miles on it. Owners Manual says to replace them at 105,000 miles but is it also dependent on time? Car will turn 10 next April. Car has no noticable problems, no codes, runs fine.

I'm shipping to US Address, that is a courier service to Georgia and it will be shipped to my home in about 2 weeks.

I'm also going to buy this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041X9RO2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=A2FYHGC4NSM6WF And to finalize I will: 1. Disconnect negative cable 2. Unplug this harness 3. Unscrew two bolts 4. Remove MAF (I will also memorize the direction, don't know if it matters) 5. Spray the cleaner to the upper part from some distance as shown in the picture. 6. Wait 10-20 seconds and assemble everything with back order. Please confirm. Is it also good idea to clean the throttle body? Car has only 69000 miles. I change air filter every oil change (Usually 6-8 months) but it's too dusty and I have to change it more frequently I guess.

Is it OK to use this product? http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05110-Mass-Sensor-Cleaner/dp/B000J19XSA/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1330064784&sr=1-1

Could you please tell me exactly how to do that? Which cleaner have you used?

Where is it located and is it possible to diagnose its condition? BTW I've changed coolant last summer, just drained and refilled it with one gallon of Genuine Nissan Antifreeze. Level is OK when I check it in the morning.

I tested this a week ago and it did it right away I started it.

Hello I've got 2003 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4x4 Automatic. Car is working fine, no problems, no MIL. Car starts from the first time when engine is cold. But when engine is warm and I shut it off, If I start it after 5 minutes it starts, then tachometer gauge goes down to 500 rpm and stalls. If I help a GAS pedal it does not stall. It does not happen all the time. It started a month ago and initially tachometer was going down and somehow managed to not stall. I'm using Mobil 1 5w-30 oil and Premium oil. I have this car for 4 years now and did not change spark plugs. Air filter was changed 6 months ago. Fuel filter was changed 6 months ago.

It does not have LSD

Hello I'm going to replace the front and rear differential oil. Nissan recommends 80w-90 API GL-5. I'm going to use this oil http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Other_Products/Mobilube_HD_Plus_80W-90.aspx What is your opinion? Thanks

Thanks everyone for helpful comments. I'm not going to do any offroading, it's just a family car. Money is not a problem for me, mechanics in my country are not charging to much. For instance for one side boot replacement I'll be charged about 14$. My questions are: 1. Based on the fact that I'm not going to offroad and mud and snow is not common in my area, but it's definitely more dust in here than in an average USA town, what is the risk that strut or any other component will be damaged in foreseeble future? 2. Should I fear that after the whole strut is disassembled and assembled again it will make noticeable effect on suspension? This question might seem odd. If there was a certified Nissan dealer I would bring the car to sleep in relative comfort compared to local mechanic. To reformulate the question, what difficulty you would assign to this job on a scale from 1 to 10? I looked in the FSM and know what parts should be disassembled and wich order, what nuts should not be reused, so I will watch mechanic to do his job well and provide him with the original parts from www.parts.com. Thanks again

I'm sure they serve some purpose. Are not they protecting the strut from dirt and water?

On highway I get 18-23 mpg. City driving 12-16. I use premium fuel and Mobil 1 5w-30 100% synthetic.

Hello everyone Today I've noticed that driver side strut boot (called Bumper on parts.com) is torn. Passenger side is also cracked at the same place. I'm going to buy those boots (they cost 12.43) on parts.com. Should I buy any additional parts or is it enough to replace? Thanks.

I've driven about 50 miles after the light was on and when refilling there was about 6 liters of gas left.

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0440 With a P0440 OBD-II trouble code, diagnosis can be tricky at times. Here are some things to try: * Remove and reinstall the gas cap, clear the code, and drive for a day and see if the codes come back. * Inspect the EVAP system for cuts/holes in tubes/hoses * Inspect for damaged or disconnected hoses around the Evap purge solenoid * Check and/or replace the sensor * Check and/or replace the purge valve * Have a professional use a smoke machine to detect leaks