Kittamaru

My pathy doesn't have one Probably used to, but I think the road salt ate it away (my grandfather, who owned it 10 years before I got it, was never that great at washing the underside of it off during the winter) And yes, I'm certain it's gone (or nearly gone) as there is some serious rancid corrosion on/around the tank - it's one of the things I'm looking at replacing asap. That and the heatshields along my exhaust, as those are all but rusted away too XD

That's just... wtf? Two holes makes some sense I guess (lets it flow betteR) but... dayum. Is this a common thing? I live in harrisburg PA and have never heard of it 0o' Would a steel-plate skidplate (or maybe even a titanium one?) stop this kind of crap?

Awesome to know

http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/Merchant...ransaver-cooler Those things any good at all? I mean... 40 bucks? Is it a true plate style cooler? (I think those are the kind I want, right? Cause the other kind has a tendency to block up?) I'm looking at the mid-duty one.

Personally, I say go for the Quest alternator - get a junkyard one and test it out - if it's a newish car to the scrap heap, and it was, say, rear ended or side-swiped, chances are the engine compartment has suffered little to no damage. I'm looking at doing the quest swap myself... my lil alternator isn't going to hold once I get the new headlights and an amp for my stereo plus other stuff that and after 18 years I'll be very surprised to find it still working at 100% efficiency XD

Heh, BobbyD, i'd stick with NGK - from what I've seen, they're supposedly one of the better ones out there, and I'll be upgrading my stock plugs to NGK Iridiums as soon as I get the chance.

I want to fit 54's on my pathy [/sarcasm] No, honestly mate, good luck with it I learned sommat from this thread - never knew ANY pathfinders were unibody... *barf* hate that idea even... I like knowing I have a nice, heavy, SOLID frame holding my truck together.

Er... really just 3 5/8? I'll look it up on alldata tomorrow, but I would swear it said something like 8.3 or so. Though I may be remember the A/T fluid... lol.

Hell if I remember - I was like, 6, at the time. My father would be the one to ask - i'll ask him tomorrow if I remember Tis 2 am atm XD

The pistons in his pinto were steel - I know this for fact because they wound up having to be replaced once, and we replaced them with aluminum ones. It WAS second hand... so that could be why?

Hey, that thing was a great car. Held up wonderful! Only ever got stuck in the snow ONCE, and that was pushing an F-150 out of a ditch that he then promptly drove into himself XD Just don't rear-end it

Aighty, wasn't sure. My father had an old Pinto with steel pistons It was the exploading variant too XD

What is the displacement difference on the VG33 or VG34 compared to a VG30E engine? And what's the HP/Torque gains?

That is true, but by changing out the stock springs, shocks, and (now I remember the name) struts, the t-bars wouldn't have to be cranked as far to get the same effect. Also, non-stock t-bars are designed with the lift idea in mind (least, I hope they are)

It's possible to raise the truck without things getting stiffer though, isn't it? I mean, longer springs and shocks with cranked up t-bars would do the same thing wouldn't it? And if you add in longer uhm... braces I guess they are? Wouldn't it give the same travel with good flex still?

Check the c-clips before anything else - if those are there, then pull the bars out and clean them, check for damaged/stripped splines. Also check it's length. If they're okay, examine the anchor. If that's also okay... then I can't help you mate It's something beyond what my limited knowledge is.

yozsi, I believe the older pathy's used steel pistons and heads, though I could easily be wrong. I forget when aluminum became the easier to use metal and the more readily available one *shrugs* I know engines used to be primarily steel though

In the snow/ice/mud/sand these trucks are awesome - never been in a situation I couldn't get out of in daily driving. I've never run a trail though... oh, and mine is mostly factory stock (cept for a good set of all terrain tires)

It's peppier of course - you removed a fair bit of resistance (both the A/C compressor pully and the resistance of having the belt wrapped around the shaft) but you will want to replace that when you get the chance. As for the ticking/clicking noise... could be a rocker? I have the same kind of sound on my truck and that's what my father and I figure it to be.

Question - are you Steel or Aluminum pistons? If aluminum, the ethelyn glycol (sp?) in the coolant could possibly damage the top of the piston... though I doubt it's the case here. Anyone able to confirm this? Trying to think back to my old chem classes

How difficult would it be to replace that single rod? I thought you could do it thru the top of the head if you were careful...?

Strength: 37,737 [Ranked: 982] Agility: 24,384 [Ranked: 991] Guard: 23,273 [Ranked: 964] Labour: 17,849 [Ranked: 994] IQ: 8,800 [Ranked: 1126] Rig Strength: 27,069 [Ranked: 734] Rig Ability: 28,874 [Ranked: 690] Total stats: 167,986 [Ranked: 985] Health: 2950/2950 Whee, I don't fail at life XD

Yeah, but anything that'd help with the cold starts is a good thing That and where I am we have dropped to around 10 below before adding in wind chill. That and my old gal does stutter and knock a bit when really cold

Stupid question - what is a block heater, and how do I install one on my truck? I assume it helps to warm up the oil and liquid lines to ease cold-starts?

Yes, but our on ramps onto the highway here give you a meager 20 feet or so before you have to merge into traffic... no joke some of them give like, 2, maybe 3 car lengths. I need to be able to hit 65mph before I get rear ended in that space, so I have to really haul ass at times.