Kittamaru

LUDICROUS SPEED!!!! Oh my GOD. They've gone to PLAID!

I dunno... all I know is mine is cracked to all hell. Hope to be able to replace ALL my evap/condenser/vacuum tubing next summer.

My solution? I keep my dog on a leash long enough to reach both sides of my truck

My hand only just fits down there: Yes, I pulled that little tube off - thought it was a vacuum tube. Anyway, got it back on no problem. I found the plug... didn't actually do the plugs tonight. I'll have to look for that tool tomorrow afternoon. I did the dizzy, rotor, and oil. My old dizzy was cracked, which is probably why I had issues when it rained hard. My rotor was also lightly corroded. Threw the new ones on and it made a world of difference on it's own (I think I had the original ones from 1990 XD) I'm going to get new wires this weekend so I can finalize the deal I'll keep ya updated

COMPLETED Upgrades: Oil Change K&N Performance Gold Oil Filter Dizzy Cap Dizzy Rotor K&N Filtercharger Air Filter Planned Upgrades: Spark Plugs - NGK Iridiums Spark Plug Wires - NGK Resistor Exhaust Gasket - FelPro New Catalytic Converter - MagnaFlow Direct-Fit New Muffler - MagnaFlow Direct-it Manual hubs - WARN Oil Filter Relocation Kit - Unknown Long Term Upgrades: NTK Oxygen Sensor Pacesetter Headers Rancho RS5000 Steering Stabilizer Rancho Shock Boots Rancho RCX + 4x RS9000XL shocks Calmini 3" Body lift kit Small taper steering system - Hoohaa REPAIRS Planned: Control Arm Bushings (mine are shot to hell) - REPLACE Rear Sway Bar + end links- REPLACE Front Sway Bar + end links- REPLACE Floor Rotted under Front Axel - unsure Replace Rear Coil Springs (3 inch sag) - Calmini Lift Kit REPAIRS Completed: Distributor Cap (cracked) - REPLACED Y-Pipe -> Straight Pipe gasket - REPLACED 4x New Shocks (OEM replacements) Right Front CV Assembly/Axel - REPLACED Right Front compression rod + A-Arm Bushing - REPLACED Got a long run ahead of me still I plan to do my plugs + wires this friday or saturday. I will also review the repairs I need to do and post images for advice.

daftpup, it's a chemical and physical addiction - you have to face it on both physical and emotional fronts. Physical involves something to take it's place, be it an activity or, if needed, a decon system. Emotional is much harder... once you come down off of it, you will see and feel what you've done to yourself and those around you and every fiber of your being will tell you to run from it. That's where you really need the support of friends and family (and religion if you are so inclined).

If you go in and tell him exactly what you need done, with the part, he shouldn't pound your ass too much... gives him a begrudged respect for you in a way.

I don't really understand the differences... I know 5w30 is thinner than 10w30... but I thought w50 was transmission grade o0' My 1990 Manual says 10w30... what kind of difference would I see if I ran 5w30?

Martin, let me say one thing: What I am about to say may clash greatly with various religious and scientific beliefs... but I know it's true from personal experience. You can, and will, recover from just about anything you wish to. If you have an honest desire to overcome something, be it an addiction, a disease, or even an illness, you can do it. It's not just willpower, it's trusting your body. Trust that you are strong. Look to ancient paganism - modern religion works for some, but for many I know it isn't enough to sit there and pray... you have to physically do something. Paganism and Christianity are pretty much the same thing with different names. Christianity pulls most of it's holidays and other "religious experiences" from paganism, but alters it to be one god and angels instead of a higher deity and minor deities. case in point - I was addicted (so to speak) to my ADHD medication. I, literally, could not function without it because I had become so dependent on it controlling my unstable emotional and mental state. Without it I was highly aggressive, depressed, and otherwise miserable. I was ready to fight over the smallest things and my grades and performance in school showed it. It wasn't that I was dosing up for fun... I needed it to stay in control. I came to the determination that I couldn't live like that... between how much those damn pills cost and the negative effects they had on me, I couldn't live like that. So one day I made a concentrated effort to go without them. It sucked. I had to keep stepping back to re-evaluate myself, and I nearly lashed out at people multiple times. And it didn't get better anytime soon - even now (almost 3 years later) I'm finding it difficult at times to keep my volatile emotions in check - but I can. Now, Crystal Meth is another, more powerful addiction by far... but the same principal applies. You have to KNOW it's a problem and you have to fight it. Nobody can do it for you. Yes, it will hurt. Yes, it will suck. And you will want it back to make the pain stop. the thing to keep in mind (and remind your friends of this) is that they will feel just as good, if not better, without it the day they see what they can make of their lives. Do they want to have children? Do they hope to raise a family? Help them find something powerful to latch onto - for me it was the thought of becoming a provider... of becoming a father... of being something I had never had for my kids. It has to be strong... potent enough that you would give anything for it... because that's what you are doing. The physical effects are true... but a little brain damage isn't enough to stop the bodies amazing regenerative powers. It'll take time, but the brain can, and will re-wire itself. Other sections of the brain will compensate, you just have to use them. It sounds strange and stupid and conceited and I know I'm not coming off as caring... but I've seen it first hand. You can overcome this... but not for anyone else, not for any other reason, than because you WANT to. Help them want to. That's the most important thing you can do.

I thought pathy's were supposed to be 10w30... some people running up to 5w50...?

Looking at a diagram of the balancer, I would wager on T1992's idea - check that mate

The problem, then is getting that pitiful 8% up to something around 30% or better... Would using carbon-nanotubes instead of copper wire up the ante a bit? I know the price would be stupid but assume money is no concern - what would be the most efficient "alternator" you could build?

I am certain - I pass the red dashes and am verging on the red line. i can push it further (I don't seem to have a rev limiter) but I don't for obvious reasons. Now, if I were to, say, double my rad capacity, overhaul the engine w/ a port n polish and do all sorts of other good things, I'd LOVE to clock my 0-60 @ 7200 rpm

I have to redline mine at 6,250 just to get onto the highway here... mostly because of short-distance right angle on ramps and an average speed of 80mph (with a 55 mph speed limit mind you)... I push the 25-75 in good time I'll have to time myself, but I think I do it in around 5 or 6 seconds if I keep her high rpm and in power mode

Starts fine now... and it's probably going on 4-5 years.

No, you are not an alcoholic. My father is an alcoholic... and he lies about it, tries to hide his stash, and become iritable and physically abusive... to the point where I simply moved out because we had already come to blows over it (or rather, I locked him in the house while my mom took my little brother and left). I moved out because, had I stayed there and he pulled a dumbass stunt like that again, I'd have killed him for putting my little brother though it.

No, you wouldn't - I'm not 21 yet and can't buy alcohol lol

Happy Overweight Munchkins Eat Rabbits TREKKIE

Bit over my head there daver to be honest. Got any part #'s I can research?

Well, I was late to work because my Pathy didn't want to turn over - dropped to around 40 last night after being around 80 all day... took a few tries for her to turn over, but she finally did... then had no power. I'm guessing condensation somewhere in the system... after a few minutes of idle she was fine, but that ate away my buffer time to get there and, go figure, today the highway was crawling. Got to work, and goddamn what a day. All day spent correcting other peoples mistakes. Fun fun! Got out of work and went to get ready for class, and I can't find my damn USB drive with my school projects on them! STILL no idea where it is! Then, on her way home, my fiance's 99 cavalier gets backed into by an idiot in a Mercedes Benz... She is a little sore and very shaken, but okay. The car... I dont' know. Hit right between the transaxel and the door on the drivers side... another foot back and it... it could very well have killed her... needless to say I'm a bit shaken right now. If there's any good news, it's that the other driver already called his insurance, who called us - he's taking full responsibility for the accident (damn well he should, as he backed across the ENTIRE ROAD and INTO HER LANE to hit her!) and is willing to pay for a rental while the car gets fixed (as well as damages of course). Just hoping the soreness in her back and neck is nerves more than actual damage... she didn't get hit THAT hard... but it was VERY close to her. So yeah... wonderful day for me today... yay... *sighs and goes to find chocolate*

*nods* The oil+tap idea makes good sense. I also plan to do my plugs/wires/dizzy while I'm under the hood, as well as oil+filter and (hopefully) relocation kit. GOing to be a busy 2 weekends for me

Okay, now that I'm back with a steady income and most of my "time critical" bills are paid off, I'm looking at doing 3 things right off the bat: New UCA's to get my angles right Examine / Repair (if damaged) CV's and boots Replace stuck auto-hubs (they're stuck) Install new tranny cooler and bypass the old one Remove stock Fan and install E-Fan How difficult and/or time consuming is the UCA swap? I'm going to have two jacks, 4 jack stands, air ratchet, breaker bars, grinders, et al at my disposal (doing it at a friends house who has the tools). Question is... how hard is the actual swap? If i get them from Calmini, will it come with instructions? The hubs seem pretty easy - read you should get new studs for em cause the WARN ones have a habit of breaking. Is this true? I'm looking at a few options with tranny coolers, but most use zip-ties to hold them on... any recommendations? I want a good brand that will last and cool well... but I've seen a LOT of conflicting info. Stacked Plate or Tube n Fin? 18,000 GVW or 25,000 GVW? Foward or Rear of the Radiator? What should I look into when choosing an E-Fan? Are they a difficult conversion to make? This is perhaps the thing I have seen and/or read up on the least. How hard is it to remove the stock fan and do I remove the clutch too?

All I see ATM are the Chilton manuals. They any good?

I'd kill for a true 1990 FSM if anyone has em.

I could definately use that kit... but with my new job I think it should go to someone who needs it more.