Kittamaru

My temp guage never moves from the 1/4 mark... no matter what the temperature (once it's warmed up that is) Think I should check my 'stat?

Seems the truck is determined to prove me wrong - my gas guage is back up to 1/4 again and sitting there, and I'm currently at 200 miles... meh. This is frustrating. If anything, my milage is a LITTLE lower... but I won't know for 100% till I next refill

Timing belt was done less than 25k ago, and was checked last spring. Once I get my paycheck friday I'm going to start the repairs - plugs + wires, then I'll clean and/or replace the MAF. Then put it in for a full tuneup after the new year. What gets me is that it started along with the cold Parts/Sensors I want to replace: o2 Sensor Thermostat Engine Temp Guage Parts I want to clean/check: MAF Heater Core + Plenum Parts I want to install: Bypass + external Tranny Cooler Anything else I'm missing? I mean... I'm basicly 4k overdue for the 150k checkup, just can't afford the damn thing If I could manage to save up two full paychecks I'd be grand, but that requires @!*% to stop going wrong.

Doesn't help mate No idea what that is... to google I go!

Just a quick update - I am loosing mileage... I'm down almost a full 100 miles to the tank... now, part of that could be wintermix fuel (I ALWAYS get worse mileage in the winter, even if I never use 4x4) but DAMN. 100 mile / tank difference? It means I've been cut to almost 70% of my usual MPG (I can normally just squeak 300 miles to the tank without hitting reserve).

From what I can see, the UCA is far too short... you 100% sure that's the right UCA?

No...... but... thinking about it... How hard would it be to alter a pully (eg, weld on a second pully alongside it) and mount a 2nd alternator that's powered off the welded-on pully wheel? Would have to be PERFECTLY straight, but shuold be possible.

That's one guys siggy there... wtf is it? Looks like an ICE, but wtf kind?

Ever consider adding a small, secondary alternator?

I tried googling it, but got a bunch of different results. Any idea on the PA regs for that?

Yeah... Original 18 year old spark plug wires Replaced the Dizzy Cap and Rotor myself about 2 months ago - was damn proud of the fact too I'll try to clean my MAF when it stops pouring hell and freezing ass outside

I won't know about my gas mileage for a while... my gauge doesn't work right until I'm below 1/4 tank (bad sending unit, functions from 100-95% full, then from ~ 30% down to empty I HAVE smelled fuel and something acrid... which has me worried. But the acrid smell and fuel smell started long before the stutter - I attributed that to it running rich due to the cold... was that an idiotic call on my part? As for cleaning my MAF... I haven't. It hasn't been touched since the truck was built Something I should try? The thing to remember - except for the "consumable" parts, and the K&N Air Filter... everything in/on that truck is original from 1990 Consider it good fortune and good craftmanship for everything to last that long

I think my Flares are trapping sh*t and causing my rust problems to become more aggravated... is this a common thing? Any reason not to take em off? Besides the difference in paint colour due to sunlight?

My MAF appears in good condition. I tried wiggling it - no effect. The stutter happens now even when in Neutral and I gas her hard... she chokes and then revs. I called my mechanic - he said that, given I have 18 year old Plug Wires and my plugs have well over 50k on em (possibly even 100k) it's worth a shot to replace em - I planned to anyway. I just need to wait till after christmas (when I get paid next) so I can afford to... Anyone have a recommendation on wires? I'm looking at the NGK's listed in my siggy

That kinda sucks o0;

It's back again... I'm starting to think it's related more to something being wet than anything... I have recently (as in, less than 2 months ago) replaced my Dizzy Cap and Rotor... should I take those off and look for moisture? right now it's POURING rain, and it's stuttering from dead start up thru 65pmh

Ignore my previous post - it is still doing it (and it was 55 today!!!)

Too true... The Hummer Series is proof of that o0;

As my entire household drives either Nissan, Toyota, or Subaru... I don't care about Ford, GM, or Chrysler... their vehicles suck anyway. And only Ford has an even half-decent request, that boils down to: "Put XXX Billion aside for us - if we can't manage to improve on our own, THEN we'll take what we need from it to make sure we get the job done" That is a plan I can agree with... not "MOAR MONEH NOWWWWWSS!!" like GM and Chrysler are saying I do agree... it's a problem... but the problem is the fatcats on top making millions upon millions... and then laying off workers to try to compensate. It's like how, in PA, Ed Rendel (or Governator) is freezing the salaries of thousands of state employees to try to save money... when our legislators are one of the highest paid per citizen in the country. Our legislators cover the LEAST number of citizens for the MOST pay... a big problem. We have over 250 of the #$!&ers... California, at 3x our population, has HALF as many as we do! If we cut out 100 legislators and made them actually do some WORK... we'd save TWICE the money that's being saved by denying state workers like myself our 2.25% cost of living raise!

Stupid update - last night the temp gauge never climbed more than 1/8th of an inch above the C line... and the truck ran fine the entire way home 0o' Thinking its time to replace some elderly parts in this beasty - what all of this list is a "consumable"? Thermostat O2 Sensor(s) MAF Sensor Engine Temperature Sensor Throttle Position Sensor I'm going to wait for Beast to ship the FSM so I can scan it. Once I have that I'll, hopefully, have a much better idea of wtf I'm doing

Hm... so what do you think I should look at first? I'm guessing O2 and/or Temp as was suggested (makes sense). Is there any danger in running the truck with them disconnected for a period of time (long enough to warm up)

I took the plug apart... the plastic is slightly melted and the metal (if that's what I'm looking at... it's that bad) is pretty fskced up on both sides of the connection... Problem is... the truck runs EXACTLY the same with that plug disconnected... no CEL or anything... GAH! What all can I safely start unplugging? the thing is, this doens't stutter at all when in park or neutral... just under load So I have to get out, drive it, let it warm up, and then see if the stutter is gone.

Redfinder, problem - I don't HAVE any plugs with 2 white and 1 black wire... o0; Not that I can see. I have 3 groups of plugs - two with 3 (one behind and one beside the steering fluid tank) and one near my throttle body. Update - it ONLY happens when it's warmed up... and it's getting worse. Happens from 2k - 3,750k now... Update #2 - I discovered the clamps holding the hoses onto my fuel filter were loose... so I tightened em up. no idea why that'd make a difference... but going to test it. There is a group of plugs near it covered in... something. Either thin oil or fuel or fuel and oil... don't know what. I dried them the best I could, tightened the clamps, and, as said, am going to test. Also - I have a plug near my Throttle assembly that's got 2 wires going into it... the plug is busted beyond all hell and looks corroded. I'll get pics when my fiance gets home so Ic na use her camera (don't know how to use it tbh)

Give it full exo-armor

Those... don't seem like they'd be all that useful 0o; Seem... small 0o;