Xmas

Ok, I did not push the loop foward. I kept it in the same place as it originally was. lol I'll see what happens when I "Get -ER-Done" today

Nope. I looked at the metal brackets behind the horn pad and notice it was bent pretty bad. Kind on like concave in the middle. I tried prying it out some to make it even and not looked bent, but the SOB still will not click into the steering wheel assembly. I think the previous owner just bent the heck out of it and its just worthless horn pad. I think once I get more $$'s together I will order a new horn pad. I just have so much I need to do to this Pathy to get her up to date. The previous owners did not do $hit to it for the 3yrs/55K they have owned it (Saw it on the title). Thanks for checking though...

How many washers per bolt (2) did you use? Mine door light still coming on, even after adding two spacers per bolt. Maybe I'll add another spacer per side

Ditto. I would love to get this also if anyone can help. Thanks

I have to admit that my pathy is the easiest engageing 4x4 I ever owned! However I never engage to 4x4 on the go. I am so traditional. I go to a complete stop, move the 4x4 shifter into 4hi or 4low and take off. When I take it off, I stop put it back into 2wd and reverse it back about 2'-3'. Then I put tranny into drive and go on about. Works great for me.

Humm ok, well I will take that screw out and then bend the clips back in a little thats on the horn pad. I did bend them out a little b/c I thought it was the reason why it was not clipping in (not wide enough). I will just measure the clips (on the horn pad) and the part where its suppose to click on the steering wheel. I hope that it really is that little screw that is causing it not to click in I will post back. Thanks!!

Oh ok Well on that heat sheild one bolt is not on. I think it was 3-total bolts on the heat shield itself. I will take it off later on today and see. Thanks bud!!

Yea I see that U-Haul sales a SUV tranny cooler for only 50.00, so I think I am getting jacked!! Oh and the cheapest quote I got back 'just' for the rear mail seal replacement was $540.00 Is that a good deal??

Got a 2nd opinion today. The shop said its the rear main seal. They said they's make me a deal. Here it is: Install new rear main seal Install new transmission cooler All for an out the door price of $650.00 Good deal??

Well, here is my horn pad and the steering wheel assembly/unit. Now am I missing anything to get it to click it in so that the horn pad will stay securely?? Steering wheel inside: Horn pad (inner side to where it suppose to click)?: Clips into steering, am I missing clips or some sort to make it go onto the steering wheel??

Ok, I think I am looking at the right place. If so, it does not look like any missing nuts Should I look under the truck for the broken stud / bolts? Is this the area??

Humm interesting!! It only taps on the passegner side 4-sure. Its probably not a knock, more like a loud TAP, but then goes away once the temp on the car goes to operation temperature (engine warmed up 100%)

When the engine is cold it knocks. When the engine gets warmed up, no knock. Normal? 159K

Could you pop yours off and post pics of both the horn pad (behind it) and the horn assembly? I think something is not right w/ my horn pad. Thanks

Need some help. I like to know if anyone here ever pulled off the horn pad on your 94-95 Pathfinders w/ Cruise? If so, were you able to get it back on without buying a new horn pad?? Because for some odd reason my original horn pad does not snap back into the assemble of the steering. I think there are some clips on the horn pad that once you pull off the horn pad you cannot install the horn pad back on. Anyone can confirm? ~~ Oh my steering wheel is the 4-spoke. My horn/steering wheel setup

It will get louder as time goes on. I really like the 70 series that was on my old F150 (v6). Only got loud when I hit the pedal. at a stop or just normal cruising you hardly heard it. Maybe a little purr, but thats about it. Now the 40 is flat out loud. On FlowMasters the lower the series which is 40 is the loudest. The higher to quieter.

What is the recall? Rattles and makes noise if not??

Due to water pump leaking I decided to place an order to install new timing belt/everything. Does this look like a good deal? (These are Dealership parts) Timing Belt: Timing Belt Tensioner: Tensioner stud: Tensioner Spring: Drive Belt: AC Compressor Belt: Power Steering Belt: Oil Seal/Front Cranshaft: Camshaft Oil Seal: Water Pump: Thermostat: Total: $252.18 Shipping: $9.56 TAX: $20.82 Complete Total: $282.54 Does this look like a good deal? If not, anyone know where I can find it cheaper online?? Thanks

Just confirm that its the oil pan gasket. They are getting a quote for me by tomorrow

Here is mine. This morning I took off the passenger side tire and looked at the oil pressure sending unit and oil filter. No leaks around it. Also getting under the truck and looking up and on top/around the valve covers front and rear and there is no indication of oil leaks. So where do you think mine is coming from??

For slower drip? lol

Ok, I cleaned up all around the engine and timing cover area. No leaks on the hoses. All I see are drips coming from right here: (Please see the video) Anyone want to take a wack to see what is the problem? Guess? Rig has 156K Original owner said he replaced the water pump and radiator this past year.

All I know that this job will not be any fun. I cannot believe how much crap I already done to it and not even one day of ownership. lol Wife is not happy about the oil drips now going on our driveway. I told her to move the new mazda out of the garage and let the big boy in. SHe laughs. I told her I was serious

LoL! I just got back in here to see what anyone said and did find out it just pops out. So Woohoo! All done Thanks Now time to order the motor/regulator.

Well; I almost got it all out. Only thing stopping me from getting the whole door off is the wires to the power window switches. How do I get to fully remove the door panel?? Thanks